CGM Eagle II Kit
#1
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From: Edmonton, AB, CANADA
Hi, I've pretty well decided that the Carl Goldberg Eagle II will be my first build. I'm looking for some insight into what I'll get and how it will all come together. I won't get my kit until Christmas and am sentenced to an agonizing next few months of waiting.
Some experiences with this kit, opinions on quality and maybe even some pics of completed Eagles would be great.
Thanks
Brian
Some experiences with this kit, opinions on quality and maybe even some pics of completed Eagles would be great.
Thanks
Brian
#2
Senior Member
My Feedback: (4)
They use a "Box" style construction for the fuse. Light ply on top, bottom, and both sides held apart by the fuse bulkheads. You are instructed to Rubber Band it together, make sure that it's straight and square, then, CA the joints.
The one thing I would like to point out is, (and this goes for all Goldberg kits)
Make SURE that it is both straight AND square!
They have a tendency to go out of square toward the rear. I usually like to tack the bottom down to the building board (with pins or small nails) to hold it flat, Then hold each area square as you tack glue it.
Once it is tack glued together, and double checked for square, then go ahead and glue all of the joints solidly.
Once that is done, remove the pins or nails with a pair of long nose pliers
The one thing I would like to point out is, (and this goes for all Goldberg kits)
Make SURE that it is both straight AND square!
They have a tendency to go out of square toward the rear. I usually like to tack the bottom down to the building board (with pins or small nails) to hold it flat, Then hold each area square as you tack glue it.
Once it is tack glued together, and double checked for square, then go ahead and glue all of the joints solidly.
Once that is done, remove the pins or nails with a pair of long nose pliers
#3
#6
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My Feedback: (1)
Over the years I have built 6 of these trainers the Eagle 63 OLd Style and the Eagle 2 New style. At one time the Eagle was the most popular trainer in these parts before the ARF trainers took over.
I strongly suggest you follow MinnFlyers advise on assembling the fuse. even though the parts are supposed to interlock you can wind up with a fuse thats not straight. Follow the kit instructions and use the check off type construction method as shown. Goldberg did a good job on the instructions. I always did mine with White covering with red trim and black stripes. make the top and bottom of the wing so you can tell the difference.
One thing I did notice about building the wings, you should keep in mind. Take your time when covering and keep any twists out. I have helped more then one new soon to be pilot with a heat gun twisting the wing streight.
Take your time and enjoy the project . When you have a question no matter how stupid ask. There are any number of experienced builder/flyers that will be more then happy to lend a hand on RCU
I strongly suggest you follow MinnFlyers advise on assembling the fuse. even though the parts are supposed to interlock you can wind up with a fuse thats not straight. Follow the kit instructions and use the check off type construction method as shown. Goldberg did a good job on the instructions. I always did mine with White covering with red trim and black stripes. make the top and bottom of the wing so you can tell the difference.
One thing I did notice about building the wings, you should keep in mind. Take your time when covering and keep any twists out. I have helped more then one new soon to be pilot with a heat gun twisting the wing streight.
Take your time and enjoy the project . When you have a question no matter how stupid ask. There are any number of experienced builder/flyers that will be more then happy to lend a hand on RCU
#7
Senior Member
My Feedback: (2)
I like this kit and plane. I made one with electric power when I came back to R/C after an 12 year break. I learned to fly,again. with this plane. The instructor at first refused to train me on an electric plane but relented after he flew it once. I wore it out learning to land. I now fly electric warplanes and motor gliders. I think I may make anothor eagle II also.
#8
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From: Edmonton, AB, CANADA
Thanks Guys. Just wanted to let you know I appreciate the advice and that I am reading. I can't wait to start building!
Brian
Brian
#9
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From: Mary Esther, Florida, FL
Not an Eagle II, but an older, and smaller, version. It's the Eaglet, with a Magnum 0.25GP engine. The yellowed waterslide decals will give an indication of its age.
Bill.
Bill.
#10
Definetely put the .40 sized engine in it. A smaller engine will not do what you want with this model, especially if there is wind. It is a nice building product, easy and gets you to understand what all the jargon is for later more experience required kits. It's my first and only plane at the moment and I engine flying it alot. I haven't been flying much, a bit last year...more so this year. I am still learning and enjoying. FYI I built this kit when I was 21...I was 31 (last year) when I flew it the first time. Couldn't find anyone to fly with or a place to fly it until then. Everything (but the engine) worked without a hitch and continues to do so to date. (knocks on wood)
S
S
#11
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From: Edmonton, AB, CANADA
I was told that I would be better off going with the OS 46 as opposed to the OS 40. What do you guys think? Will the 46 be a better choice? The price I've been told is not alot more.
Brian
Brian
#12
Honestly I would put the OS La 40 in there and nothing more. It's a great little engine and easy to get going. Pulls the airplane perfectly, and it will do more when you are ready. My bro has one in his.
Btw I crashed my Eagle today. Radio interference, or severe downdraft...not sure but I hit the tops of a tree. The fuse smashed in the woods 200 feet from the wing. The front of the wing lost all it's ribs or splintered the rest. But from the center spar back it was completely perfect. Very minimal rebuild for how hard it hit, and had to drop from the tall trees. The fuse, only the fin was badly damaged, and the gears ripped out (a problem already with eagles). But the fuse was in pretty damn good condition considering.
Needless to say, this thing is strong.
Btw I crashed my Eagle today. Radio interference, or severe downdraft...not sure but I hit the tops of a tree. The fuse smashed in the woods 200 feet from the wing. The front of the wing lost all it's ribs or splintered the rest. But from the center spar back it was completely perfect. Very minimal rebuild for how hard it hit, and had to drop from the tall trees. The fuse, only the fin was badly damaged, and the gears ripped out (a problem already with eagles). But the fuse was in pretty damn good condition considering.
Needless to say, this thing is strong.
#13
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From: Edmonton, AB, CANADA
The fuse, only the fin was badly damaged, and the gears ripped out (a problem already with eagles).
Thanks Brian
#14
I am not sure if this is still the case Maple. My kit when built was purchased over 10 years ago. However, where the front trike like wheels insert into the fuse is a flimsy design at best. There were two U shaped slotted pieces of ply that the gears inserted into on the sides of the fuse. They popped out of those things very easily as there was nothing to complete a 'box' around the gear rods that went up into the fuse. I had to take pieces of ply and glue two on the sides of the gear rods, then another larger one that created a box or block effect. Fortunately I didn't build them so strong that it ripped my fuse apart. It was enough to dampen the effect of a plane screaming toward the ground at 40mph as it ripped through brush and vines. Thus the reason why I am capable of repairing this thing in under 5 hours instead of having to rebuild it from scratch. 
S

S
#16
I have to also mention the positive aspect of the eagle kit, it takes a beating. After that crash I spoke of, the only things in need of repair are the fin, the servo tray is slightly out of place, the gears of course, and a dab of ca here and there...I'm ready to go. Wing is rebuilt and ready to go also. 
Weather permitting of course. Sigh.

Weather permitting of course. Sigh.
#18
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From: Edmonton, AB, CANADA
Sincraft - Looks good, let me know how the test flight goes.
MinnFlyer - Thanks, This might sound a little ignorant but what does "Prop it Down" mean?
Thanks Brian
MinnFlyer - Thanks, This might sound a little ignorant but what does "Prop it Down" mean?
Thanks Brian
#19
Hi all I just felt compelled to post a thread on the Eagle II. I purchased this airplane (which i believe is a eagle II) about 4 months ago including the servos, battery,reciever, engine,and futaba transmitter for $150. I learned to fly on this plane all by myself with the help of no instructor and very little previous experience besides flying a aerobird for 1 month. After flying for a couple months with the OS 40 engine I upgraded to aa ST 51 and it flew even better but the covering had been letting go everywhere on the airplane and it was in need of a new coating. The windows were beyond repair and needed replacing also. I had a hard time getting the fuel soaked airplane to accept any coating but after a week of fixing up I did manage to get it looking acceptable. I replaced the elevator with a larger one and also replaced the rudder since it was also warped. Color may be a little different than what was original but it is a little easier to see now.[8D]. I think this airplane is very eaasy to fly and is very strong, possibly because it is made from ply rather than balsa.
#20
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From: Toronto,
ON, CANADA
This is one kit you will love, and you should fly the heck out of it, it will do it's job and get you your wings. I bet over 70% of the guys on here have flown one and have nothing bad to say about it. Just take your time building it follow the instructions and then have a good time. THis is what the hobby is all about.
The .46 is a good choice but if you have a .40 that will do fine. (Read it's not a big deal)
The .46 is a good choice but if you have a .40 that will do fine. (Read it's not a big deal)





