Good day.
Finishing up a GP Cap 232 .40 size. After reading feedback from the fantastic RCU it is now set up for pull pull's on the rudder.

Can the adjustment clevis's go on the inside with the cable crimped directly to the control horn outside? The idea is to lighten the tail.

The Limbo Dancer fun fly shows/has the cable crimped right to the servo inside the fuse with the clevis outside to the horn on the rudder. Works well. The fuse on the limbo dancer wouldn't allow enough room inside for adjustment. I think. But with the Cap there is plenty of room.

Thanks for any input
Spanky

I prefer to use clevises on both ends, it makes for easier assembly and adjustment. Makes little difference in weight.

Thanks Sprink, I figured the saying "watch the ounces, the pounds will take care of themselves" would fit here. Every little bit helps I guess.

Spanky

I quite agree. I recently finished mine and it came in at a whopping 6 1/4 lb, with a Saito 91. I can only point my finger at the wood in the kit and the use of profilm (ultracote) for covering for the excess weight (as well as a couple of oz for the saito).

Against this the few grams that a couple of clevises weigh is not much. I would be interested in how heavy yours comes out at. It still flies very well at this weight.

I kept the rudder servo at the back, so it has a direct link to the rudder.

We will see, a mini hs 81 is on the side in the fuse for the throttle. The saved weight here is put back in w/the dual aileron servo's out in the wings.
No steel control rods, even on the throttle. Golden rods w/the steel rods only from the point it exits at the fuse to keep things rigid. Like you said couple ounces here and there. Hopefully add up.

The other weight saver is the use of polyeurothane glue. I'm not a gambling man but I'd bet this glue is 100 times better than any 2 part epoxy: lighter, sands easier, has a slight foaming property (for minor gaps) as well as the BIG benifit of slight flex. The only drawback is it's a 24hr glue. BUT, nothing a little thing CA won't take care of until it cures.
Spanky

Here's another useful axiom:
"1 ounce on the tail adds 4 on the nose"
In other words, it's 4 or 5 times as important to lighten the tail. What pull cable are you using? Cabling directily to the horn brings up the abrasion issue, with the horn sawing back and forth on the cable with each control movement. I've been using a short threaded rod bent into an eye for the cable to alleviate that concern. I'd be happy to find a better way, though.
For that size airplane, a good weight saver is the Hitec 225 BB Mighty Mini servo. 2/3 the weight of a standard servo, and more torque.
The tailwheel is another place to lighten up.
Hope this helps!

Thanks Swooper. The abrasion concern was put to rest (for me) with a link from RCU showing the connection holes in the control horn set just aft the hinge line. Makes the cable taught when on center (prevents flutter), then when pulled, one side tension tightens w/the air over the control surface, while the other side tension decreases/relieves or becomes somewhat slack reducing the sawing effect.

There is alot of flights on this Limbo dancer with no abrasion evident. (the cables are coated too) Plus these size planes don't exhibit big time forces like the giant scale. (my opinion)

Do you mean to leave the tail wheel off? That whole hardware set up is heavy I'll agree.

Spanky

No, I just meant different tailwheels weigh more or less. I've changed them at times to alter the c.g. easily.
Most seem excessively heavy in solid rubber and aluminum.
I'm using Spectra kite line for pull cable these days.
Putting the clevises at the servos seems like a good idea for a bit of lightening. Less convenient, though. Metal clevises? Seems like they need locknuts to prevent the cable twisting looser.
Are we nitpicking here? Best wishes with your project!