I am building a Ultra Sport + and it calls for some epoxy thinned with alcohol to be brushed on the inside and edges of the landing gear compartment.
However, when when I did this (and it was very watery) it seemed to do nothing but give my wood that "water soaked" look and when it dried, the wood was just as soft as if I did nothing.
Does this mean that I used too much alcohol? Also, is there something better to use to toughen the sheeting/wood.
Surely some of you may have experienced something like this.
Any help would certainly be appreciated.

What was teh ratio? this sounds like just a 'fuel proofing' proceedure..

Typically, the epoxy / alchohol is 1-3 drops alcohol to 1oz epoxy. Or, at least, that's what I do.. And the alchohol should be Methyl Hydrate / dinatured alchohol. Not Isopropenal / Rubbing alcohol (more water content) the more alcohol you add, the longer it'll take to cure, and in some cases, it never really does. Some have also said that the alchohol will evaporate, but leave holes / channels in the epoxy.

It does sound like you've used a bit too much alchhol. the epoxy should have cured to a fairly hard surface. Don't really know what to offer for advice.. wait a few days, and add a nother coat?!

No ratio was given, but I used a whole lot more then three drops of rubbing alcohol. Thanks for telling me what alcohol that I should be using. And the next time I will certainly use three or four drops instead of just pouring out a tablespoon size portion. I'm not real experienced in building and this is only my second build. Live and learn, eh? Thank you for your help.

The blend is for fuel proofing,not adding strength, I thin it enough to brush it on using regular rubbing alcohol,the more water it has, the longer it takes to dry,no big deal,I've used this method for many years, sometimes I'll add food coloring or dye to get a color.

Fuel proofing? I don't understand then why Great Planes instructed that this be applied underneath the retractable mains. The instructions stated that this procedure was to "reinforce" it.

If the wood was bare the fuel from the exhaust will damage it,if anything else? I've never built this kit.

In general, I refrain from diluting any epoxy with alcohol as it can often lead to cure problems and definately degrades any strength enhancement. You are far better off using it undiluted and gently heat it with a heat gun to make it flow out and spread over the area being fuel proofed. Using any alcohol with water (and almost all achohol will have water in it, especially if it has been open for a time) will adversly effect cure time and strength. You can also buy epoxy that is much thinner and flows well for a fuel proofing application, usually called finishing resin.

What you are doing is as stated, fuel proofing the wood. You can thin 30 minute epoxy about 1 to 1 with alcohol for this. I have built a few planes that used this method for glassing as well, but it is not nearly as strong as resin. One plane in partuclar uses 1/2 oz cloth and a thinned mix of epoxy and alcohol on the whole plane. It does a nice job and adds enough for that particular plane, but I wouldn't try this to strengthen anything on a model. If you need strong, glass it with glass and epoxy thinned with heat as stated above. If you are fuel proofing, do it with thinned epoxy or with balsa rite or a similar product.

I agree totally. Epoxy likes heat, makes it much easier to flow it out. Is not with out its own difficulties. Not something you do over carpet for instance.
The shop I work at uses a hot box to "cook" items being repaired. Not hot but low heat for 24 hours. Lets you run high resin and lower harder contents for flexibilty.
I think though that with planes the weight is also a factor. Thinning w/ denatured alcohol is much lighter as it can be done very thin.