Hi All
Anyone put a top hatch in a 4* 40..I would like to be able to get to the fuel tank if possible. Putting a hatch on the bottom is no porblem.
Send along any thoughts or suggestions.

Thanks In Advance Dan

In mine I used fiberglass packing tape to form a handle on the tank. I then enlarged the tank floor opening somewhat so that I could pull the tank easily. I did this because I prefer not to install a hatch as it adds weight.

If you are going to install a hatch just make a duplicate of the top radius of the firewall and the next former back. Make a rectangle of 1/4 inch square stock that connects the half formers. Then put some tri stock in each corner supporting the 1/4 rectangle frame work. Now you have something to bolt the hatch to. Plank the top as you would with out the hatch being present. Cut the planking between the duplicated formers and voila a hatch.

Lot easier to do that to try and write about it. Hope you got the idea. If not let me know and I'll post a sketch.

John

Hi I sketch would be great.. Not sure what you are saying..If i could get to the tank without the hatch, thats the way I'll go..Always nice to hatch..
Thanks Dan

Ok,
Basically it's a box with the upper radius of the firewall F1 and the upper radius of F2 forming the ends. Build the box so the new F1A and F2A fit against F1 and F2. The box is then supported by tri-stock at the corners. Look at the modified blueprint. Does this make it easier?
John

Build the hatch. Use the tri stock pieces in the front to position it so the radius of F1 and F1A match. Do the same to the back so that F2 and F2A match. Next when it comes time to sheet use a couple of straight pins to mark the joints between F1 and F1A as well as F2 F2A. Glue the sheeting. I used Titebond and rubber bands after I sprayed a little windex on to help the bend. Let it dry and cut between the pins. Presto a hatch.

John

EDIT -> Spray the sheeting. Hold it in place with #64 rubber bands just around F1 and F2. Let dry. Now you have a shell that you can cut and glue seperately. If you do the above you would have to place waxpaper between the formers to be able to cut them apart.

Do you really need a hatch?

I have the GP 8 oz tank installed and installed it through the F2 after the top of the fuse was sheeted.

I fixed it with a scrap balsa, if I need to remove it, I will just break the balsa support.

For the fuel lines have a foot send the two ends from the holes in F1 and install it to the tank than pull the lines and fuel tank goes to location cut the fuel tube and you are set.

Just a suggestion.

Also the hatch must be on top due to fuel tank support, you can not access it through the bottom of the fuse.

Hi Cobra,
I don't have a hatch in mine either.

I just wanted to show a method of constructing one, since it was asked about. My instructions must have failed, since you mentioned it needs to go in the top.

This is so hard. I can build the hatch in an hour or explain face to face in about 10 minutes.

I have more and more admiration for someone like CaffeenMan who puts up a web site where the instructions are so clear.

Later guys,
John

Hi John
Thanks for your fast reply. Looks like the hacth may not be be needed.. Will check your drawing, looks confusing right now..LOL

Thanks Again Dan

Hi Guys Thanks again for the information on the 4* hatch..This one I gave up on the hatch.. Seeams like the tri stock that I had behind the engine mount would have caused problems..This plane flies soooo good. I may just build another. This time using 1/4 sheet stock for the top fuselage front.. I would have to cut formers F1&F2 even with the fuselage sides..And then make the hatch right in the 1/4 stock.

Thanks Dan

Dan,
Glad to hear you like the plane . I really like mine. So more details about yours. Did you make any mods? I shortened mine 1 wing bay and increased the aileron throws. Other than that it is stock with a TT .46 PRO. Any pictures?
John