Drexus

Can everyone tell me what are the top things you hate to see in a kit. Or, the worst experience you have had building a kit.

I need this info.
Thanx.

Live Wire

Parts that are not completely cut and stiks that wiggle out of the box!!!

Drexus

OK, easy fixes...

DavidAgar

My Feedback: (108)

The one thing that really bothers me is to buy a kit and it has ABS cowls and wheel pants. I am fully aware of the cost factor, however maybe kit makers should consider the kits be sold 2 ways as an option. I always buy after market cowls as the ABS ones just do not last. The other issue that I have is the grading of the balsa wood. I have built kits and have had to purchase different balsa as the supplied wood was either to soft or bullet proof. Just my thoughts and Thanks, Dave

CCRC1

My Feedback: (13)

I will second DavidAgar, I hate ABS plastic parts with a passion!!!
I would rather carve the part out of a balsa block than use ABS parts.

dicknadine

send me a plan and I will use my wood, my techniques and give you the result for comparison. its been along time since i have had a kit. dick

SST

My Feedback: (2)

Nylon clevises[:'(]

Drexus

Our Tri-Pacer uses layered 1/4" Balsa slabs. I can't stand ABS plastic stuff. One little crack and it's over. Nylon clevis - just stay away.

dr_wogz

My Feedback: (3)

How about some overly engineered part / sub-assembly..

crummy photos in the manual, that really don't show too much..

Decals athat are obviously off center / mis-aligned / mis-printed

Slot screws. Why not philips or socket head screws instead.. what's the phobia / fear of kitting with these?!

newbieT

I agree, Wogz, flat head screws/drivers are a PITA to use, hex, torq or philips for me, please! I think the biggest argument against philips head screws is they can strip their heads easier then flat headed screws...but then again, I could strip a screw no matter what it's configuration [:@]

SST

My Feedback: (2)

Ditto on the screws...I usually pitch them too. Stainless socket head cap screws are my exclusive choice for fasteners on my planes. I have gone as far as retapping engine assembly bolts on my Norvels for standard size SHCSs. In fact, I'd say 80% of kit supplied hardware is either substandard quality or just plain junk. I'd pay the extra for premium quality hardware, since I'm doing it now, in addition to paying for the priveledge of tossing the garbage that I usually find in the box.

MinnFlyer

My Feedback: (4)

I hate installing control horns... And straight slot screws make it even worse!

I wish all kits would come with those types of horns with a single screw. MUCH easier!

Josey Wales

My Feedback: (61)

DITTO!!! That is my least favorite thing to do..Trying to line up those backplates is a royal pain!!

Drexus

I like that peg horn. I will be looking at those in later kits. How are they for price?

dicknadine

as the other have said, trying to fix the screw ups that came with the kit. it may have worked in Chinese, but conversion to English somethings got lost. Good old fashion Scratch Building lets you correct your own mistakes, not having to help the 100 kit builders try to figure out what went wrong. there ain't nothing personal in the above to any of you fellows. dick

dr_wogz

My Feedback: (3)

Yes, translations done by people who qualify themselves as translators... Proof readers who think they can proof read, and proof read a foreign language..

"In teh forward flowing holes are two screws turned right. Repeat for bottom of top edge. At right.

In a one direction guided by hand, form the curve of teh mis-shapen block to fit next step."

As for screws.. Robertsons all teh way!! The original 'safety screw', and beats phillips hands down. they run a tight race with socket heads....

a bit of history on the robertson screw.
(Another good thing that came from Canada!!)

http://www.robertsonscrew.com/
http://www.mysteriesofcanada.com/Ont...son_screws.htm

MinnFlyer

My Feedback: (4)

Drex, That pic was from a Pacific Areomodels GeeBee Y that I reveiwed last year. Those control horns were great, but as far as price goes, I don't know... I haven't seen them for sale anywhere. But there are some others that are similar.

beardking

My Feedback: (4)

Here is a Dubro version of that system:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXDCU2&P=ML

Or you can use these and the correct bolt and washer size (slightly cheaper)
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXDMK2&P=7

And here is the Sullivan version:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXBWL3&P=0

I definitely prefer this type of system.

phread59

I abhore adjustable engine mounts. What a PITA. I would love to never see another. And believe it or not I despise wood push rods. I use Sullivan Golden rods exclusivly (Thus far, I want to get into some bigger scale planes, may have to use them then). Yes I also hate slotted screws. I use cap screws whenever possible.

Mark Shuman

pikebishop

I was really dissapointed by the lack of a decent winshield in a herr cub. they only give you a sheet of flat clear windshield material. how much could it have cost them to include a decent windshield, probably 50 cents! no hinges in this kit either. abs parts suck in general. the time and effort required to get a good finished product is just too great.

bojangle

After 50 years of building, I feel I can handle any goof up in a kit, except for one.

As you know, the trend today is toward taildraggers, as seen in new kits, and many conversions of older planes. The technology/design of tailwheel brackets and/or assemblies is lagging a lot.

I have the perfect design (on paper), but trying to implement it on a plane is impossible with the current availability of parts. Apparently the designers, or so called engineers creating this stuff has never installed a system.

I have checked Tatone, Dubro, GP, Sig, Sullivan, etal, each design has its own unique short comings. If I had the resources, mostly time, I would manufacture my design, but would rather have an established company make it per my specs. Biggest problem is none of the parts are compatible across manufacturers.

I think the reason no one else has come up with my design yet is because it is too simple. It is also different enough from other designs to justify at least a copyright if not a patent.

I would consider visiting with any company about my concept (without disclosing too much detail at this time). I have developed prototypes, although in "draft" quality.

Bob

spokman

My Feedback: (2)

Lazy Bee was a beatch!!!

Scar

My Feedback: (3)

I hear that. I bought a basket case BUSA quarter scale cub, and I can see why the builder gave up when he started making the windshield. I ruined the supplied butyrate piece, several sections of .080" storm window material, and about 3 pieces of 0.020" Lexan, trying to form my own. Would have been less work to carve a plug and pull Lexan over it with heat. There's not even an aftermarket blowmolded version available.

I have an observation about hardware. It seems Lanier had the right idea - don't include it. People have opposite opinions on adjustable mounts, wood pushrods, and nylon clevises, and probably each side has good reason. However... it seems that a proper hardware package should be available separately (check with Wild Hare, they offer one.)

Just my 2 cents worth,
Dave Olson

dicknadine

have you gone thru the patent application process yet? its simple and gives you some protection later on. its real simple. DO IT NOW. may help sometime down stream. might even pay off later on. dick

bojangle

So far I just worked up a drawing with a copyright and mailed it to myself, left unopened. I should clarify that it's more of a method, process, descriptive instructions...which by law is automatically Copyrighted simply by any means of publication, including posting a picture here. Unfortunately not all countries have accepted the "Berne Convention".

Haven't progressed enough to go for patent. Actually, I would be happy if I could stimulate the companies to start improving their hardware, and if someone, such as Goldberg comes up with the same "design" I have, great for the hobby. I'm not after profit, just to improve the status quo of hardware for all modelers. And to stay on topic, I would say poor hardware is my worst headache, and the price of hardware is ridiculous. (I mention Goldberg since their nylon moldings are the best)

Here's an example. Take a standard "screw-lok" connector. Once the engine is installed, no way to access the end located set screw. Some planes, like the Sig LTs, solve this by cutting away the cheek blocks for access. Only fix is to drill a hole and tap for a "top or side" access screw. There is no reason why the factory can't have both the end and side tap threads.

Wheel collars: They should all be the same O.D. from 1/16 through 1/8", then the same O.D from 5/32 through 3/16. And all with a 4-40 thread for socket head. Small wheels should come with a choice of 1/16 or 3/32 axle hole. On larger wheels I'm constantly having to either drill out holes or shim with copper tube.

For rod ends got 3 choices, nylon which is hard to adjust, or the metal which breaks fingernails, or kwik links which fall off. Ironically, the good old Z bend is still the best, but what is needed is an adjustable "turnbuckle", with half left hand threads , half right hand threads for adjustment without disconnecting, and a simple jam nut. I bought some left hand taps/dies and make my own.

Tooling up for new, un-proved hardware is expensive, the companies won't improve as long as we continue to accept their obsolete stuff.

As for the pre-mentioned tail wheel assemblies, it gripes me to pay up to $35 for a conversion, including a stamped aluminum "dural" gear. Hallco used to make beautiful tempered and polished gear, but they gave it up for their more profitable trailer floor products.

I'll get off my soapbox and give someone else the floor. If anyone out there has molding/milling resources, I would be glad to collaborate with them.
Bob