heli-savage

Hey Guys,

I just crashed my 4*40 after about 50 flights and want to build a 4*60 now to replace it. I have a new OS 61FX that will fit in it nicely. One thing I would like to do is to put retracts in it. Anyone have any info doing this that might help out? I have never used retracts before and would like for this plane to be my first crack at it. What would be a good set of retracts without breaking the bank? Any other mods that are worth doing? I think I might build a nose for the thing this time.

I am in the planning stages now, as I plan to build this fall/winter. I still have a Hog Bipe to tie my over until then. Thanks All,

Dion

smokinghole42

My Feedback: (2)

With this airplane I would recomend just staying with fixed gear. Retracts are never really worth all of the problems associated with them. But should you choose to anyway I recomend a set of high quality pneumatic retracts. Mechanical are extremely hard to plan out and re less reliable in my opinion. I'm building a larger cousin to the 4*60, the thunderbug 120. Its extremely similar, but they have a better set up for the landing gear to be retracts. Its Tricycle nor taildragger. The problem is the main spar of the wing would have to be changed to fit the main gaer retracting. My solition would be to get the 90 degree rotationg retracts like on the p-40's. build it slightly outside the wing to mainain the structure of the wing spar. and fare it in.

Campy

My Feedback: (1)

You will find some controversy between air and mechanical retracts. IMHO, mechanical retracts are substantially cheaper than air retracts, just as reliable and not that much more difficult to install.

I would suggest mechanical retracts with the 3/16" strut, not the 5/32" strut you find on most of them. The 3/16" strut will be a lot stronger and less likely to bend than the 5/32". Forget about the 90 degree rotating retracts - just more expense and aggrevation.

A tip: Forget about trying to bend the strut. Cut the strut a little longer than what you need and use the DuBro EZ Adjust Axles. Just make sure you use a drop of locktite on the set screw(s) and file a flat spot on the strut.

leftnut

My Feedback: (1)

i clipped the wing 3-4 inch total
took the diehedral out
extended the rudder 1"
hatch for tank
stronger and taller landing gear, wheel pants

retaracts ?
add doublers or triplers to the ribs
ply or hard wood rails. maybe even aluminum 2mm or 3mm plates on the back side of the rails to prevent the retract mounting rails from splitting.
machine thread screws and nuts..might do the samething.
and epoxy the crap out of it. make it nice and strudy whatever you do...

you might also need to trim ribs 3 and 4 to match r1 or r2
....so you can sheet it.
spray paint caps or paper cups for wheel wells
if machanical you would need to make a an extra servo mount.
if you deem the spar needs re-enforcing.. add sprute or sum'in

the trick is to have the wheels sitting in front of the LE when
retract is extended..so you won't nose over.
you'll be in a nose heavy plane with a full tank during take off

MinnFlyer

My Feedback: (4)

Ditto to everything Campy and leftnut said

mstroh3961

My Feedback: (4)

It has been done before! Here is a thread on the subject! with pictures!

[link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_323144/anchors_323144/mpage_1/key_four%252Cstar%252Cretracts/anchor/tm.htm#323144]click me[/link]

phread59

I say go for it, nothing ventured nothing gained. You would have a great, different model when done. I would suggest Spring Air 103HD's. I have a set in my Ultrasport 60. Simple pneumatic installation. The price on them is good. And they are real strong too. Good luck with this one.

Mark Shuman