Building error. Possible problems and fixes needed.
#1
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 34
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Yes,
VA
I built this plane when I was very young. It has been in storage for many years and when I took it out it had a broken elevator. After repairing and mounting the new elevator that I modeled after the one side that was not broken, I noticed that the stabalizer was longer on one side. I have attached a picture with measurements showing the problem. Is this something that needs fixing, or is it so small that it won't be a problem? If so please provide tips on how I should repair this.
Measurements don't add up 100% because I rounded them.
Measurements don't add up 100% because I rounded them.
#2
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 1,289
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: GraftonNew South Wales, AUSTRALIA
If this is a sport plane and you are not looking to win a world champioship with it I doubt you will notice.
The fact that the elevators are the same size should minimise any roll coupling during a loop.
Terry
The fact that the elevators are the same size should minimise any roll coupling during a loop.
Terry
#3
Senior Member
My Feedback: (1)
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 301
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: el centro, CA
you might need to retrim the plane during flight more
or it might snap roll more on one side than the other.
i crashed and repaired an Ace 4-40 so many times,the fuselage
was out of alingment. it basically had this same problem after the third crash.
it flew good enough for me to get my fix..
it did as stated above
you can try aligning the wing to the tail and add more right trust if needed.
you can also try heating the epoxy to uncure it. if you deem the tail needs coming off.
a dremel is nice to have
or it might snap roll more on one side than the other.
i crashed and repaired an Ace 4-40 so many times,the fuselage
was out of alingment. it basically had this same problem after the third crash.
it flew good enough for me to get my fix..

it did as stated above
you can try aligning the wing to the tail and add more right trust if needed.
you can also try heating the epoxy to uncure it. if you deem the tail needs coming off.
a dremel is nice to have
#5
Senior Member
My Feedback: (7)
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 1,089
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Here, NJ
ORIGINAL: leftnut
you can also try heating the epoxy to uncure it. if you deem the tail needs coming off.
a dremel is nice to have
you can also try heating the epoxy to uncure it. if you deem the tail needs coming off.
a dremel is nice to have
Me? I'd just fly it
if they can notice on the ground, keep it in the air
#9
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 34
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Yes,
VA
Seems like everyone is in agreement. I'll let you all know how it flies.
great quote!
if they can notice on the ground, keep it in the air
#10
Senior Member
My Feedback: (1)
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 301
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: el centro, CA
if you don't like the way it flies after.
i personnally don't think it's that hard to repair.
draw a line 1/8 " below the horizontal stab and cut.
cut the rudder's hinge from the fuselage
add tri to the inside of the fuselage
add a 1/8 thick piece of wood to build the 1/8 back up.
if the TE of the verticle stab (post) runs all the way down to the bottom of the fuselage,
drill a tooth pick or a dowl to rejoint it.
a dremel is nice to clean off the wood and epoxy from the bottom of the
horiziontal stab.
re center, re hinge rudder to fuse and epoxy.
add tri stock to the bottom of the coner the horizontal stab at fuselage to reinforce.
i do this anyways on 4 *s and most of my planes. it called for on a GP p51.
i also don't like the way the 4* .40 vertical stab is just sitting on top of the horizontal.
it'll get knock off. the surface of the wood will just crack, or peel, or the glue joint become
weak.
i lost a vertical stab in flight after a nose over on a Kwik Fly.
that was fun
i modify the stab to have a rear post and drill tooth picks into the bottom of the
vertical stab to joint to the horizontal stab.
i personnally don't think it's that hard to repair.
draw a line 1/8 " below the horizontal stab and cut.
cut the rudder's hinge from the fuselage
add tri to the inside of the fuselage
add a 1/8 thick piece of wood to build the 1/8 back up.
if the TE of the verticle stab (post) runs all the way down to the bottom of the fuselage,
drill a tooth pick or a dowl to rejoint it.
a dremel is nice to clean off the wood and epoxy from the bottom of the
horiziontal stab.
re center, re hinge rudder to fuse and epoxy.
add tri stock to the bottom of the coner the horizontal stab at fuselage to reinforce.
i do this anyways on 4 *s and most of my planes. it called for on a GP p51.
i also don't like the way the 4* .40 vertical stab is just sitting on top of the horizontal.
it'll get knock off. the surface of the wood will just crack, or peel, or the glue joint become
weak.
i lost a vertical stab in flight after a nose over on a Kwik Fly.
that was fun

i modify the stab to have a rear post and drill tooth picks into the bottom of the
vertical stab to joint to the horizontal stab.





