2slow2matter

My Feedback: (1)

I just recently bought this kit. This will be my first kit, and was recommended to me in the beginners section. I've been flying now for some time, so that is not the problem. I've only put together arfs up to this point. My dad and I will be building this kit over the Christmas holidays. Has anyone out there ever built this kit? Is it as easy as they claim? What are some things I need to watch out for? It really looks nice on the box. I hope mine turns out that nice!
Thanks in advance....

Putz Brother

Have you built anything else in your life, plastic models or anything like it, something that you had to be very carefull about following the instructions?

Putz Brother

Something wrong wit hte site, can't edit my prior post. The best thing is you'll be building it with your dad. So was my first plane.

miamiflyer

My Feedback: (1)

I'm building one right now.
third plane, first kit since 10 years. i totally enjoy it as a comeback building project.
the destructions don't really tell you how to do the "building" because it is assumed that
you have some building experience. have straight rulers and triangles ready !
Outlaying the building process in steps and recommending
the use of 6 min epoxy ( duh!) here and there is all there is. you may want to read ahead and skip
a section until glue cures and be ready to encounter sections where it makes no sense to follow the guide
(gluing the dowels), or leave the jigs on until final sanding etc. you are in control of quality and accuracy
,build it straight and light !!! I was dissapointed at first since i didn't have the experience of building required but asking at
the club and here, helped me alot.
open the box and inhale the sweet scent of a new kit ( i love it) and make sure the LE and TE blocks
are straight. mine were warped and unusable to install, i called in for replacements.
the new ones came after 10 days (no charge) and were warped again plus they didn't ship the LE, instead
they shipped 4 TEs ( all warped).
ended up laminating stock to match.
now i have to sand these .........................................
lot's of work, be prepared.
good luck. pat

Safebet

My Feedback: (12)

You can do it. I, too, received my kit today. I can't wait. Going to set up my work surface as soon as I can. I have just finished rebuilding the mid-air. Just have to add the covering to the wing. I am anxious to get into the air and learn. ( I have only 3 minutes on first flight before the tragedy occurred) I will have plenty of time to build this kit. Got all winter. It's a GP Super Decathlon-40. Much more plane than I can fly at this time, ha. ha. But as I posted on another thread, I have discovered how relaxing it was repairing the ARF. I wasn't conscious of time or my surroundings. I was in my own world. I felt so relaxed when I finished working on it for the day. It's
indescribable.

Good luck with you new kit.

Jim Vines

2slow2matter

My Feedback: (1)

Jim, thanks for the confidence! Miami, I will definitely check those LE and TE stocks today. I feel like I can follow directions pretty well. I've built many models in my life (mostly cars), and computers, and rebuilt cars, and so on, so following directions shouldn't be a problem. I've already scanned the instruction book, and the pictures are very handy! One problem I will have is picking the right glue. When gluing parts together to make thicker parts (I.E. the firewall, some formers, the fuse sides, and so on, is it better to use epoxy or thick CA? I will definitely use 30 minute epoxy on anything that entails the firewall, but what about other parts? The manual assumes you know this, and I'm not for sure on some of it. Also, the cowl looks like a bugar to cover. I'm thinking of just paintine it with lustercote or something of that nature, rather than covering it. I've heard that paint is much heavier than covering. I don't need anymore weight than necessary in the front, as I'm putting a Saito 100 in it (YIKES!). So I'm thinking any lightening of the cowl will be helpful. What are your thoughts?

robert92679

I too am in the midst of building a Contender. Tail feathers and wing complete. Fuselage mostly done.

As to the glue, I would recommend using CA for any internal structures (ribs to spars, fuselage sides to formers, etc.) as well as the stick built tail feathers. I use thin to set the pieces in place, then usually follow up with a little thick to make a small fillet along the seam. I used epoxy wherever the instructions said to, but always 30 min. I think 6 minute epoxy (as called out in the manual) is crap and barely acceptable for field repairs! What you really want to get is bottle of yellow wood glue. I use Titebond II. Use that for any external joints that you will end up sanding, or when need some extra time to get the alignment right (sheeting to ribs, LE to wing, cowl blocks, etc.). Yes it will slow you down a bit, but it also gives you plenty of time to get the parts fit right. Use T-pins and tape (I like the blue painters masking tape) to hold the parts in place while the glue cures. I also used this glue to laminate the pieces for stab and fin (but epoxy for the firewall). Just hold them in place a moment, then lay a book or something on it while it dries.

Sand every piece to fit. You can't just punch out the pieces and glue them in. A bit of balsa filler also makes any joint that isn't 100% look much better. Also fills any holes from the T-pins. You'll notice the difference the filler makes when it comes time to covering.

If it's your first kit, you'll need some tools, clamps etc. Clothespins work great. You might also want a couple small bar clamps. On the Contender, a Master Airscrew Razor Plane really helps shaping the TE and LE. It will be the best $7 you spend.

Good luck!

Robert

miamiflyer

My Feedback: (1)

2slow!
I wouldn't put a saito 100 in it. I have that engine on a ultra sick 60 and it's a dream
but it would be way too heavy on the contender and too big.
do a search on "contender engine".
It flies well with a 40 and with the 60 quote:"is a guided missile".
so all it takes to make this light bird fly well would be a hot 40.
I ordered a J"EN 56 from
http://www.justengines.unseen.org/Jen.htm
took only 5 days to ship and swings a 13x6 prop at 10800.
that'll do it plenty and has the same crankcase as a 46 OS.
I"m breaking it in on the weekend.
I used CA only to build up the tail feathers. great planes pro wood glue for everthing else except
firewall and landing gear rails (30 epox)

Use Sigment or ambroid to edge glue sheeting and laminate parts.
I used quart sized freezer bags filled with sand to keep the sheeting in place.
you'll need 3-4 big clamps to hold the fuselage sides in place.
you'll also need a straight edge ( homedepot), one 11" and one 22" bar sander with a course
and fine grid (great planes).
use 400 grid to finish it.
make sure to test fit the spar with the ribs, mine where off and needed sanding to fit
the sheeting, gosh!
the razor planer robert recommended is very useful since you have to remove a lot of
balsa before you get to sand it. get extra blades.
i just finished sanding the LE ( 3 hours). got to be straight!
i'm going to ultracote the cowl in pieces, and use thinned epoxy or nitrate dope to fuel proof.
I thought about painting it too but I use the chrome ultracote for the plane and there is
no matching paint.
have fun and don't hesitate asking.
Pat

Roby

2slow2matter

It's not the plane I would recommend for a "first build" but if you take your
time , follow the instructions, and don't rush it , you will do fine.

I built many of these kits in it's original form back in the early 70's and decided to
try the "new and improved version" just for the fun of it .

To be sure, the quality is better ,and a bit lighter, but for the most part it's very much
the same plane. If built correctly , it can be a fun plane to have

If I were to build another, I wouldn't bother with the flap this time and I wouldn't use
a 4 stroke again either..... Don't really need a flap and the use of a 4S means that the
engine area gets real tight along with having to move most if not all of the flight pack
toward the rear of the plane.

Regards
Roby

2slow2matter

My Feedback: (1)

Thanks for all of the tips. Miami--that's great information, just the kind of stuff I need. I do have a saito 56 also that I could put on it instead. Would you recommend this engine instead? The only two stroke I have is an evo .46 (which is a hot little motor), but it weighs out exactly the same as the saito .56, so I might as well go with the fs. I have the saito 100 on the way, but I could wait and put it into my next bird (which will by all likely hood be a 60 sized p51). I ordered monocote to match the picture on the box, because I really like the red and white scheme. However, now that I've seen a few in chrome, I'm thinking of going with that look instead, with a chrome spinner. Either way (red or chrome), I'll probably go with the chrome spinner (unless weight doesn't allow it). I'd hate to have to add ounces of weight in the tail just to balance out a spinner!