bps

My Feedback: (3)

I am at the covering stage with this kit. The fuse presents some interesting covering challenges trying to cover with monocoat. Has anyone built this kit and covered with monocoat. I could use some tips, and yes I have built a few planes and used this covering before.

Thanks

JEB

mgnostic

Hi,
Im just getting started on mine. It's an older kit that I got at an auction. No cowling ( I guess it got lost somewhere) I'm considering coverite fabric or sig coverall. i just couldn't put monokote on a WWI airplane. I'm debating fiberglass or an aluminum pan for the cowl.
Mgnostic

bps

My Feedback: (3)

I used the colortex from BUSA. Great covering to work with and it gives a buitiful finish for the time period. I first tried the red monocoat and to get the round fuse covered was almost imposible. Nice kit for the money. I used the kit cowl and it proved servicable after reinforcing the inside with fiberglass cloth. Be careful this bird is tailheavy even with a 4 stroke in the nose. I used the magnum .52 4s. I also built up the tail feathers and did not use the solid balsa (heavy) parts supplied in the kit.
Enjoy, JEB

papermache

My Feedback: (35)

bps,

BUSA sells replacement cowls for the bristol M-1 for 12.95. Check out their website.

papermache

jstanton

My Feedback: (14)

I would not use Monocote on a plane with this much character. WW1 planes where built using cloth and dope. If you want a nice looking body and wing on this plane the cloth and dope method would be the best. Sig Koverall goes on like Monocote if you first use the Stix-it product first. After stix-it is applied to the wood surface you just iron on the Sig Koverall just like Monocote. The best thing about the Koverall all is that once it has stuck to the wood all of the wrinkles just iron right out. And I do mean all of the wrinkles. You than apply 2 or 3 coats of Dope mixed with thinner at a 1 to 1 ratio sanding very litely between coats. You can than use any after market spray paint (rustoleum, Krylon, Etc) to paint it with. Then you seal the paint with a good spray polyurethane. This gives you a great looking plane just like the real WW1 Bristol M-1.

Joe Ortiz

My Feedback: (75)

What about using Nelson's Covering?, it can be panited as well, but pricey.

Joe

tom czenthe

Built two of the BUSA ones. On the second one , I increased the aileron size 2 bays. What a nice improvement !!! Liked the M 1c soo much, I decided to build a larger one for scale competition.

Joe Ortiz

My Feedback: (75)

That looks cool[X(]

mgnostic

I'm planning to put an Irvine Q72 on my M1. Overkill powerwise but it is a pretty good lump of a motor when it comes to balancing a short nosed airplaine and it will spin a more scale looking prop. I used a 14-7 prop on my Fokker triplane. I hardly ever needed more than 1/2 throttle unless I wanted vertical performance but it balanced perfectly. Has anyone had any problems with the wing mount. It strick me as a little odd that there isn't any sort of anchor shown at the front of the wing.

bps

My Feedback: (3)

The front of the wing is held in place by a 1/4" dowel through a fuse bulkhead. Typical model construction. You will be glad to have the nose weight on this model. I used built up tail feathers to save more weight over the solid balsa that is supplied in the kit. Be very careful when you build the top deck over the wing. You need to use a straight edge to line up the bulkheads from the nose to just aft of the wing or your top deck will not be straight. Take a look at the side view on the plans and you will get an idea. Also the landing gear mounting could be beefed up. The top of the gear rides in the bottom of the landing gear hardwood blocks and rests on the bottom of the lite ply fuse floor. One bounced landing and the gear can come through the fuse floor. I had a tough time locating wheels so I just built mine. They are holding up well so far>

JEB

mgnostic

I've carefully checked my plans and instruction and NO mention or indication of a wing dowel. The only attachment shown are the wing bolts at about 2/3rd's chord. This would be way aft of the center of pressure and would put a lot of stress on the structure as lift tried to push up the wing's leading edge. Mine is an old kit from another modelers estate. This was among the newest models in his collection and it dates from the early 80's at the latest. Guess I'll just have to engineer in a dowel. Luckily I'm at just the right spot to do so. I haven't sheeted the top of the wing yet and I'm about to start on the fuselage. Once I get the bulkheads inplace I'll anchor the wing and use a long 1/4 inch bit to drill for a dowel. Thanks for the tip on the landing gear. Good job on the wheels! Luckily I had a pair left over from a long departed sterling Fokker D7. I hope William's Brothers makes some sort of a comeback