sanding leading/trailing edge
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sanding leading/trailing edge
Hi,
first kit (contender) and big job to make a LE out of a square block.
the razor planer helped well and the rough sanding is almost done.
hard to not hit the ribs.
when putting the straight edge on top i see hills and valleys (between ribs)
not really big but the whole LE looks a little wavy[]
TE was harder since
I had to keep the radius. but it's not that crooked.
So what's the correct method to get this job right.
and where to measure and check?
I used 11" and 22" bar sanders.
thanks, pat
first kit (contender) and big job to make a LE out of a square block.
the razor planer helped well and the rough sanding is almost done.
hard to not hit the ribs.
when putting the straight edge on top i see hills and valleys (between ribs)
not really big but the whole LE looks a little wavy[]
TE was harder since
I had to keep the radius. but it's not that crooked.
So what's the correct method to get this job right.
and where to measure and check?
I used 11" and 22" bar sanders.
thanks, pat
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RE: sanding leading/trailing edge
Hi Miamiflyer:
I don't have the answer to your question. I just wanted to let you know there are several of us with Contenders on the way. There is a thread started. "TOP FLITE CONTENDER". Not much info in it yet, but we will be trading ideas with each other as we go along, along with pics, I hope. I am sure after some Contenter owners see it we will start getting suggestions and help from those who have already done this kit. Watch for it. Subscribe to it.
I can't understand what happened. With a 11 and 22" bar sander you would think it would be perfectly straight. Is it possible the stock wasn't straight? Surely, just gluing in the ribs would not make it wave. You couldn't use enough glue (excess) to wet and warp that piece of balsa. I don't know, but will be interested in your progress and look forward to your assistance when I begin mine.
Regards
Jim
I don't have the answer to your question. I just wanted to let you know there are several of us with Contenders on the way. There is a thread started. "TOP FLITE CONTENDER". Not much info in it yet, but we will be trading ideas with each other as we go along, along with pics, I hope. I am sure after some Contenter owners see it we will start getting suggestions and help from those who have already done this kit. Watch for it. Subscribe to it.
I can't understand what happened. With a 11 and 22" bar sander you would think it would be perfectly straight. Is it possible the stock wasn't straight? Surely, just gluing in the ribs would not make it wave. You couldn't use enough glue (excess) to wet and warp that piece of balsa. I don't know, but will be interested in your progress and look forward to your assistance when I begin mine.
Regards
Jim
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RE: sanding leading/trailing edge
MiamiFlyer - This is one of those things that you really need experience with to get it right every time. Razor planes are good tools, but you have to go slowly and gently with it.
The first thing is to set up the wing so that you have both hands free. Trying to hold the wing in one hand and use a tool in the other can work, but it makes the job more difficult.
When you start with the plane, just plane the top and bottom of the leading edge so that it is a flat slope that continues from the front of the rib. You have to stop before you start cutting into the ribs.
Now plane off the corners so that they're chamfered. Now go at it with a long sanding block. The 22" block is the best choice. What I do is cover the front of the ribs with masking tape and sand back to front - not spanwise. All this is done with coarse paper.
Get the shape right, but leave it slightly oversize. Then switch to finer grit and finish it off.
The first thing is to set up the wing so that you have both hands free. Trying to hold the wing in one hand and use a tool in the other can work, but it makes the job more difficult.
When you start with the plane, just plane the top and bottom of the leading edge so that it is a flat slope that continues from the front of the rib. You have to stop before you start cutting into the ribs.
Now plane off the corners so that they're chamfered. Now go at it with a long sanding block. The 22" block is the best choice. What I do is cover the front of the ribs with masking tape and sand back to front - not spanwise. All this is done with coarse paper.
Get the shape right, but leave it slightly oversize. Then switch to finer grit and finish it off.
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RE: sanding leading/trailing edge
sure safebet, i'll join.
let's see if it grows like the one 2 years ago.
thanks cafeenman, did it just like that withouth knowing it's done like that.
experience, well i don't have much in building other than freeflight balsa gliders
and r/c sailplanes 20 years ago. I spend allot of time on your nice site to get ideas
before i go to the next step.
the LE/TE sticks were warped badly and i called topflight for replacement.
they send four LE sticks, no TE, all of them warped again and i've had the wing pinned on my only building
board waiting for them to ship. i lost a week already and decided to use the warped ones.
(no similar stock was available at the LHS).
and just straightening with a razor planer to get all the surface glued to the ribs.
I evened out with a little elmers wood filler and now it is straight.
I didn't know what to check for if you receive a kit. (other than the great smell of it)
so safebet, make sure your's are straight.
Pat
let's see if it grows like the one 2 years ago.
thanks cafeenman, did it just like that withouth knowing it's done like that.
experience, well i don't have much in building other than freeflight balsa gliders
and r/c sailplanes 20 years ago. I spend allot of time on your nice site to get ideas
before i go to the next step.
the LE/TE sticks were warped badly and i called topflight for replacement.
they send four LE sticks, no TE, all of them warped again and i've had the wing pinned on my only building
board waiting for them to ship. i lost a week already and decided to use the warped ones.
(no similar stock was available at the LHS).
and just straightening with a razor planer to get all the surface glued to the ribs.
I evened out with a little elmers wood filler and now it is straight.
I didn't know what to check for if you receive a kit. (other than the great smell of it)
so safebet, make sure your's are straight.
Pat
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RE: sanding leading/trailing edge
I also cap teh ribs with masking tape, where the sanding bar would hit / run across them.. Saves sanding teh ribs! Also help serve as a guide to blend teh pieces.
take your time, long smooth strokes with the sanding bar..
take your time, long smooth strokes with the sanding bar..