Hobby Lobby Mini-Telemaster Glow Conversion?
#1
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From: Ottawa,
ON, CANADA
Hi all.I have been doing some research on the Mini-Telemaster kit that Hobby Lobby sells and it is originally designed for electric power.Has anyone converted one of these kits over to glow and if so,what size engine did you end up using?Without seeing the plans and strictly going on what's on the net for information,I'm guessing that this plane would probably fly best with a .061 to a .074 without killing the wing loading.I have a .10 that is looking for a home but it might be a little too big and heavy for this particular kit.I've heard guy's talking about it in the past here at RCU but has anyone actually done the glow conversion and flown it?Good flying guy's
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#2
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From: Bad News, VA,
Did you ever decide to go ahead and try? What were the results if so?
I just bought the kit, was wondering the same thing.
Although I was going to use a .15....too big, eh?
Perhaps the brushless motor collecting dust in my parts drawer is the way to go.
I just bought the kit, was wondering the same thing.
Although I was going to use a .15....too big, eh?
Perhaps the brushless motor collecting dust in my parts drawer is the way to go.
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From: toledo,
OH
I've been looking at this recently myself. Sorry don't have a clue on the glow engine. Wanted to keep mine elec., but there prices on their nippy motor, controller etc. etc. etc. Are pretty pricey I can do a couple .40 size glow using motors I have for that kind of money. Curious as to what other opitions can be substituted motor and controller wise that would be a bit cheaper and do the job.
Any information or suggestions would be welcome since I have never done elec. before.
egor
Any information or suggestions would be welcome since I have never done elec. before.
egor
#4
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Do not know about converting to glow power but I have one using a brushless outrunner and it is great. I did build a new wing (flat--i.e. no dihedral) and installed ailerons. It is a blast, getting 10 to 15 minute flights and it will do it all although the rolls are a little slow. Even take offs on a grass field is no problem. I would expect an .049 to be more than ample glow power.
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From: Edmonton,
AB, CANADA
Hi,
I am currently considering the same option as you are. Taking a Hobby Lobby Mini Telemaster (cost is about $25 US) and bolting on a Norvel Big Mig 61. This airplane has a very light wing loading so you do not need anything more than a Norvel 74 or a 10 size engine at most.
Of course you can also bolt on a 15. This large of an engine is not going to be a problem as long as the airplane balances. Keep in mind that if you convert to glow like a Big Mig 61, the plane will actually be a few ounces lighter than with a Speed 400 or similar.
If you have to add weight to the tail to balance the plane, your engine is too large or too heavy and performance will suffer. Better to move the engine closer to the C of G, although harder to do once the plane is built. Do not mount the engine as far forward on the engine mount is another option, if possible.
I use a Hitec 81 for throttle and Hitec 85 servos for rudder and elevator. Will be less than 20 ounces flying weight. Hobby Lobby are quoting 20 ounces flying weight with a 2 ounce electric motor, 6 ounces of batteries and 1 ounce for the electric speed controller.
9 ounces per square foot equals awesome flying.
Remember that when converting to glow, the front end of the fuselage needs to be beefed up to handle the vibration of an IC engine.
The front end, including the fuel tank compartment needs to be fuel proofed using thin CA. Seal the area where the wings sits on the fuselage using a thin layer of silicone. To do this, put a bead of silicone on the wing seating contact points, wrap the wing in Saran wrap, mount the wing and let the silicone cure. 24 hours later take off the wing and remove the saran wrap.
Remember, Glowfast and Crashlightly.
I am currently considering the same option as you are. Taking a Hobby Lobby Mini Telemaster (cost is about $25 US) and bolting on a Norvel Big Mig 61. This airplane has a very light wing loading so you do not need anything more than a Norvel 74 or a 10 size engine at most.
Of course you can also bolt on a 15. This large of an engine is not going to be a problem as long as the airplane balances. Keep in mind that if you convert to glow like a Big Mig 61, the plane will actually be a few ounces lighter than with a Speed 400 or similar.
If you have to add weight to the tail to balance the plane, your engine is too large or too heavy and performance will suffer. Better to move the engine closer to the C of G, although harder to do once the plane is built. Do not mount the engine as far forward on the engine mount is another option, if possible.
I use a Hitec 81 for throttle and Hitec 85 servos for rudder and elevator. Will be less than 20 ounces flying weight. Hobby Lobby are quoting 20 ounces flying weight with a 2 ounce electric motor, 6 ounces of batteries and 1 ounce for the electric speed controller.
9 ounces per square foot equals awesome flying.
Remember that when converting to glow, the front end of the fuselage needs to be beefed up to handle the vibration of an IC engine.
The front end, including the fuel tank compartment needs to be fuel proofed using thin CA. Seal the area where the wings sits on the fuselage using a thin layer of silicone. To do this, put a bead of silicone on the wing seating contact points, wrap the wing in Saran wrap, mount the wing and let the silicone cure. 24 hours later take off the wing and remove the saran wrap.
Remember, Glowfast and Crashlightly.
#6
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I'm chiming in here to more or less echo glowfast. I have a mini telemaster I've been flying for about a year on a plain old run-of-the-mill speed 400 geared 2.3:1 with 8 cells and an 8x6 sloflyer prop. That works out to roughly 15 oz. of thrust at 100w in, about 65w out. This plane has more than adequate climb and can do multiple loops from level flight on this power setup. Fancy B/L motors need not apply. I think a Norvel .061 will be more than sufficient for a conversion here. I was thinking about it with an OS .10, but found another home for the OS before I finished up the airframe. I would hesitate to go big on the motor because of the lightweight nature of the airframe--it wouldn't take too much to overspeed and cause structural failure, IMO. One suggestion for building, either increase the dihedral, or do as I did and add about 3/8" to the rear of the rudder. The plane could use more turning authority than the stock design gives it--I might add here that mine snap rolls nicely with the added rudder.
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From: Mission,
TX
I just finished my conversion to diesel. I took out most of the dihedral and added a longer center brace,more shear webs,ailerons, flaps,sheeted fuse . Covered with red and white moneycote like the kit photo. Hitec 555, 5 HS 81's. all up weight less fuel 31 oz. Oh I forgot MVVS .15D. Not flown yet,this engine is taking a lot of breaking in. Ralph
#8
Just for kicks, and between other kit building, I got a Mini-Tele and put an ASP .25 on it, with an HS-81 throttle servo and two HS-225 for rudder and elevator. It definitely had the performance, but frankly, didn't fly very well being so over powered. On the first flight, I got it trimmed out, then started trying other things, namely to see if it would spin. Tried several times to get it to spin, and figured it was too nose heavy to spin well. After about 5 tries, it went into a tight spin, which terminated with contact with the ground! Tried everything all the way down, to no avail.
About 4 flights later, I did it again, and invoked the same spin. About 8-10' off the ground I got the spin stopped, and applied power, and the torque apparently took over having no forward speed, and it went into the ground again, breaking the fuse. I may try an .049 next time, 2 channel. I'm sure it would be an excellent flying plane if it were built per plans. For now, I'll stick to my Senior Tele for the fun.
Randy
About 4 flights later, I did it again, and invoked the same spin. About 8-10' off the ground I got the spin stopped, and applied power, and the torque apparently took over having no forward speed, and it went into the ground again, breaking the fuse. I may try an .049 next time, 2 channel. I'm sure it would be an excellent flying plane if it were built per plans. For now, I'll stick to my Senior Tele for the fun.
Randy
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From: Calhoun, LA
I have a Mini-Tele that I built glow powered. I moved the firewall forward and installed an AP Wasp .061. YOU DO NOT NEED MORE POWER! This plane weighs in at 17oz and will almost fly verticle. I am using a APC 5.7/3 prop. I can't say enough about how the plane will fly sooo slow, yet will get up and really move at WOT. Very easy conversion and again, do not attempt to put more than a .061 on this airframe, it is just too light.
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From: montreal,
QC, CANADA
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From: Ottawa,
ON, CANADA
tmalone is right - you do not need more power. I built mine and hung a OS .15LA on it because i had it laying around - what a crazy five minutes of my life that was......sheesh. I hand launched it WOT and was lucky I didn't run out of radio range before getting my fingers on the gimbals...The MT went straight vert FAST. After throttling back I was able to do a few passes and started pulling some tricks, but the temptation is too great to open that throttle. Back at WOT i put that poor little plane through hell for a good couple of minutes before half of the elevator folded and started flapping around (held on strictly by the covering) - what a noise...
... Alas, she met the maker.
I had added alot of stiffening and structural to the plane all over it to compensate for the extra power and weight of the .15, but the elevator (horizontal stab)was the weak link. Pretty near all that was left of the plane were the areas where I had strengthened or sheeted. I had also extended the wings by one extra rib bay on each end. Going to try this scratch build again starting next week, this time with a supertigre 370 brushless.
... Alas, she met the maker.I had added alot of stiffening and structural to the plane all over it to compensate for the extra power and weight of the .15, but the elevator (horizontal stab)was the weak link. Pretty near all that was left of the plane were the areas where I had strengthened or sheeted. I had also extended the wings by one extra rib bay on each end. Going to try this scratch build again starting next week, this time with a supertigre 370 brushless.





