SSE Hatch instalation
#1
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 37
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: St. Marys,
ON, CANADA
I am currently working on a Sig Something Extra and am confused about how they say to mount the rails on to the hatch base. it says something about a 1/16" spacer bat it shows a picture of a small pice of wood on the to of the fuslage side. If any one can explain this process in more detail I would really appreciate this
#2
Senior Member
My Feedback: (6)
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 168
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Meridian,
ID
I don't have the manual in front of me, but if I remember correctly, the 1/16" spacer is to space the rail that is mounted on the bottom of the hatch from the outside edge so the hatch seats completely yet not let the hatch slop around from side to side. Like I said, I don't have the manual in front of me, but if you don't get any responses I'll post a more knowledgable answer when I get home.
#3
Senior Member
My Feedback: (6)
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 168
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Meridian,
ID
Dusty-
I hope that I can explain this. I think that this is the part that you are talking about (Step 60). Take a piece of 1/16" sheeting and pin it to the fuse sides. Then put the hatch rails on the top of the 1/16" sheeting (use the pins to hold the rails in place) and line them up so the outside edge of the rail is just inside the inside edge of the fuse. Make sure that the sheeting and rails stay perpendicular to the fuse sides. Then put the ply hatch base on the rails and make sure that everything is still lined up. Tack glue with CA the rails to the hatch ply base. Remove the pins and the hatch and finish gluing the rails to the under side of the hatch base.
What it comes down to is the 1/16" sheeting is just a spacer to keep the rails in view so that you can glue the rails to the under side of the ply hatch base.
Hope this helps.
James
I hope that I can explain this. I think that this is the part that you are talking about (Step 60). Take a piece of 1/16" sheeting and pin it to the fuse sides. Then put the hatch rails on the top of the 1/16" sheeting (use the pins to hold the rails in place) and line them up so the outside edge of the rail is just inside the inside edge of the fuse. Make sure that the sheeting and rails stay perpendicular to the fuse sides. Then put the ply hatch base on the rails and make sure that everything is still lined up. Tack glue with CA the rails to the hatch ply base. Remove the pins and the hatch and finish gluing the rails to the under side of the hatch base.
What it comes down to is the 1/16" sheeting is just a spacer to keep the rails in view so that you can glue the rails to the under side of the ply hatch base.
Hope this helps.
James
#4
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 1,289
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: GraftonNew South Wales, AUSTRALIA
The above reply is correct except that the spacers are 3/16, not 1/16.
They are fitted on each side of the bottom of the hatch in such a position as to just locate inside the fuse sides. As above, their purpose is to stop the hatch moving from side to side.
Terry
They are fitted on each side of the bottom of the hatch in such a position as to just locate inside the fuse sides. As above, their purpose is to stop the hatch moving from side to side.
Terry
#5
Senior Member
My Feedback: (6)
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 168
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Meridian,
ID
Actually, as I stated before the scrap piece of sheeting that you use is 1/16", and the rail is 3/16" (just never stated the rail size).
The following is straight from the manual:
If you wanted to you could put a piece of scrap all the way across the fuse and set the rails on top.
The point here is that it doesn't matter what size of scrap sheeting you use since the only purpose that is serves is to elevate the rails so that they can be aligned properly and glued to the hatch. Once this is done they are removed and thrown back into the scrap pile.
The following is straight from the manual:
Use a scrap piece of 1/16" balsa to support the rail 1/16" above the fuselage side and secure it with pins, from the outside of the fuselage.
The point here is that it doesn't matter what size of scrap sheeting you use since the only purpose that is serves is to elevate the rails so that they can be aligned properly and glued to the hatch. Once this is done they are removed and thrown back into the scrap pile.
#7
Senior Member
My Feedback: (6)
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 168
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Meridian,
ID
I think that I ended up doing the same thing. It was much easier to just measure. Another trick might be to rub chalk on the inside edges of the fuse. Line up the hatch and press down. It'll give you a chalk line for the outer edge of the rail.
#9
Senior Member
My Feedback: (1)
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 301
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: el centro, CA
That step kind of confussed me too.
It's for deck and has nothing to do with holding the hatch in place
Thats the way I understood it, after I guled.
Glue the top deck former first, then the rails to the side, top sheeting
and sand it flush to the fuselage.
I glued the rails in place like the instruction and had to cut them off or out.
I found out when the precut sheeting piece wasn't wide enough.
And those formers has a slight angle, so it can't just be drop in.
Think about it, if rails goes on the bottom. It'll hit the cross piece
that has the bind nut on it.
or did i get it totally wrong ?
The dowl on the rear of the canopy and the screw keeps everything in place.
I guess you can glue 1/2" lone piece to prevent from going side to side,
measure the thickness of the fuse and glue the small rails accordingly.
why would it go side ti side when it's locked in place by the dowl and screw ?
I didn't had problems
It's for deck and has nothing to do with holding the hatch in place
Thats the way I understood it, after I guled.
Glue the top deck former first, then the rails to the side, top sheeting
and sand it flush to the fuselage.
I glued the rails in place like the instruction and had to cut them off or out.
I found out when the precut sheeting piece wasn't wide enough.
And those formers has a slight angle, so it can't just be drop in.
Think about it, if rails goes on the bottom. It'll hit the cross piece
that has the bind nut on it.
or did i get it totally wrong ?
The dowl on the rear of the canopy and the screw keeps everything in place.
I guess you can glue 1/2" lone piece to prevent from going side to side,
measure the thickness of the fuse and glue the small rails accordingly.
why would it go side ti side when it's locked in place by the dowl and screw ?
I didn't had problems
#10
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 37
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: St. Marys,
ON, CANADA
Thanks for al your help. I figured that the easiest way to do it would be to measure the fuslage sides and then put the railings that far over from the edge of the hatch bottom
#12

Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 260
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Somewhere in, ME
Hi,
As explained above, the rails are on the bottom of the hatch, and simply help center the canopy hatch between the fuselage sides. This pic of mine might help you.
Regards,
As explained above, the rails are on the bottom of the hatch, and simply help center the canopy hatch between the fuselage sides. This pic of mine might help you.
Regards,




