minwax instead of resin?
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minwax instead of resin?
I have heard of guys using minwax on balsa instead of using resin. Have any of you out ther tried this?
I didn't know what minwax brand product to use. I know they have a polyurathane in a spray can, but the floor sealer is what I assumed to probably use. If the floor sealer is what is to be used, can you spray it with an auto body spray gun? or will brushing it on be ok?
I am building a TF GS P-47, and I want to keep it as light as possible without using fiber glass cloth, yet giving the balsa a good seal and finish before painting it. any tips are appreciated
a
I didn't know what minwax brand product to use. I know they have a polyurathane in a spray can, but the floor sealer is what I assumed to probably use. If the floor sealer is what is to be used, can you spray it with an auto body spray gun? or will brushing it on be ok?
I am building a TF GS P-47, and I want to keep it as light as possible without using fiber glass cloth, yet giving the balsa a good seal and finish before painting it. any tips are appreciated
a
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RE: minwax instead of resin?
I have used Minwax water based Polycrylic protective finish for base preparation used in conjunction with lightweight glass cloth. The cans I buy are quarts which I get at Home Depot. It works very well and sands easily. I am not sure that you can use it as a base on balsa alone to achive a good foundation. The glass prevents cracks from easily forming. I have also used a very light glass cloth which looks very similar to the standard chopped strand glass but is about as light as tissue. I don't know the exact stuff to ask for as I was given a large roll of the glass by a friend. This I use to cover the balsa used as baffles inside the cowls of my gassers. The Minwax dries very light and is quite tough. I use a foam or bristle brush to apply it. I am not sure of the weight per sq/ft as I have never bothered to weigh it. All I could suggest is to experiment with it. Minwax is also very good to use as a gasoline fuel proofer on the engine box and firewalls of gassers. The advantages are: no noxious fumes, easy to apply and very easy to clean off tools. It is also very tough. I have used automotive epoxy paints on it with very good results too.
If you are in doubt, experiment. I will often use parts to test things on from the remains of aircraft found in the trash cans at the club.
Safe flying!
If you are in doubt, experiment. I will often use parts to test things on from the remains of aircraft found in the trash cans at the club.
Safe flying!
#3
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RE: minwax instead of resin?
Go to http://www.renderwurx.com/rc and check out the build for the plane that won the Toledo show last year. Tom used water-based poly urethane but used a laquer sealer first. This is a great site with lots of scale tricks.
#4
RE: minwax instead of resin?
I have seen the lightweight glass you're refering to advertised as fiberglass veil and as fiberglass tissue and is typically sold as a .2 oz weight.
There is also carbon tissue that comes in weights of .2 oz, and .5 oz. I did some tests with .5 oz carbon tissue. The stuff acts like a sponge. I have done some tests with epoxy and with brushing laquer. So far, these tests have added nearly twice the weight of epoxy glassing with .5 oz glass.
Scott
There is also carbon tissue that comes in weights of .2 oz, and .5 oz. I did some tests with .5 oz carbon tissue. The stuff acts like a sponge. I have done some tests with epoxy and with brushing laquer. So far, these tests have added nearly twice the weight of epoxy glassing with .5 oz glass.
Scott