Soldering technique
09-23-2002 | 05:27 AM
#1
Soldering technique
I need to solder (Sn-Ag solder) a clevis coupler (see pic) to the end of a metal control rod. It is difficult to fill the drilled end of the coupler with solder before pushing in the rod. What is the best soldering technique for doing this to get a strong and reliable joint ? Will brazing be needed ? Thanks........... 
09-23-2002 | 07:02 AM
#2
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From: Douglasville,
GA
Re: Soldering technique
Originally posted by rajul
I need to solder (Sn-Ag solder) a clevis coupler (see pic) to the end of a metal control rod. It is difficult to fill the drilled end of the coupler with solder before pushing in the rod.
I need to solder (Sn-Ag solder) a clevis coupler (see pic) to the end of a metal control rod. It is difficult to fill the drilled end of the coupler with solder before pushing in the rod.
Actually, it doesn't have to be "filled". The inside should be coated all the way
around, though. Same with the rod. It should be coated with solder.
If you don't have a soldering gun or small torch that's up to the task, you
should find some other way to do your controls. (Or get someone to do it who can)
Tin both parts beforhand... heat, slide the rod into place. Excess solder will ooze out all around.
09-23-2002 | 06:47 PM
#3
Soldering technique
Hello!
Al metal clevesis are soldered using soft solder!!!!!!!!
NOT using a open flame torch!!
The way you do it is real easy!!The best tin solder to use is
"Stay-brite" silver /tin solder, other name for this is Great Planes silver solder kit (GPMR 8070)solder This is solder 5 times stronger than ordinary tin solder and is the easiest solder there is to use and the best to use. An ordinary soldering iron is what you should get ,I have a 75Watt "Weller" temperatur constat iron.
No cleaning is needed if using this solder as it comes with a really good flux acid.I have used this for over 20 years and its the best!!
If you dont get this solder ...ordinary tin solder works too ....see to that you sand the rod and put on flux acis on everything before you solder!
Regards!
Jan K
Sweden
http://hem.passagen.se/airracing
Al metal clevesis are soldered using soft solder!!!!!!!!
NOT using a open flame torch!!
The way you do it is real easy!!The best tin solder to use is
"Stay-brite" silver /tin solder, other name for this is Great Planes silver solder kit (GPMR 8070)solder This is solder 5 times stronger than ordinary tin solder and is the easiest solder there is to use and the best to use. An ordinary soldering iron is what you should get ,I have a 75Watt "Weller" temperatur constat iron.
No cleaning is needed if using this solder as it comes with a really good flux acid.I have used this for over 20 years and its the best!!
If you dont get this solder ...ordinary tin solder works too ....see to that you sand the rod and put on flux acis on everything before you solder!
Regards!
Jan K
Sweden
http://hem.passagen.se/airracing
09-23-2002 | 07:19 PM
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From: d, AL,
Soldering technique
Lots of good information you've received.
Here's the way I do it.
Sand the rod and clean it with alcohol. Place the rod into the coupler with no solder inside.
Place the tip of a 50/75 or 100 watt gun or iron on the middle of the coupler and place a drop of solder between the iron and the coupler to aid heat transfer.
Feed small diameter 60/40 rosin-core solder into the open end of the coupler with the rod inserted.
The solder will melt and wick fully into the joint.
Don't move the joint for a minute or two and you are done.
The strength of this joint will surpass anything a plane could offer it.
Happy flying and good luck!
Here's the way I do it.
Sand the rod and clean it with alcohol. Place the rod into the coupler with no solder inside.
Place the tip of a 50/75 or 100 watt gun or iron on the middle of the coupler and place a drop of solder between the iron and the coupler to aid heat transfer.
Feed small diameter 60/40 rosin-core solder into the open end of the coupler with the rod inserted.
The solder will melt and wick fully into the joint.
Don't move the joint for a minute or two and you are done.
The strength of this joint will surpass anything a plane could offer it.
Happy flying and good luck!
09-25-2002 | 12:13 PM
#5
My Feedback: (108)
Soldering technique
I have to agree with the silver solder comments. I have tryed to solder with regular electrical solder and it works for a period of time. I have never had a silver solder joint come apart. Just flux both pieces and heat up the middle of the joiner with the push rod installed and the solder will flow right on in the connector when it reaches the proper temp. Let it cool and you be finished. Good Luck, Dave.
09-25-2002 | 12:20 PM
#6
Soldering technique
Hi Folks ! Thanks a heap for the great info. I have a 20W iron which I use for electronics work. Guess I have to invest in a higher wattage iron. Which is best 75W or 100W ? I guess 100W will give a better solder flow and coverage but is that an overkill ? Thanks.....................
09-25-2002 | 12:56 PM
#7
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Soldering technique
A long long time ago, in a galaxy far far away (Scotland), I was taught to solder professionally. I occasionally use a 60W soldering iron for doing clevises - but most of the time I use a jeweler's miniature oxy-acetylene torch.
The following points are the most ignored / misundertood, IMO:
1) Preparation (sand if necessary, clean, etc). Also clean the iron repeatedly.
2) Fixture. The soldering should be done with the clevis vertical, open end up, and the rod inserted into it. Drill a small hole in a piece of wood to hold the clevis, or grip it in a clothespin.
3) Heat. You need enough heat for the solder to flow freely. Do NOT apply the solder directly to the soldering iron, except for tinning the iron. (There should be just enough residual solder on the iron to allow a small meniscus to form between the iron and the part you apply it to). Apply the iron to one side of the clevis or pushrod, and the solder to the other. Doing this means that the solder will not flow until all components have reached the correct temperature for the optimal joint. Apply the solder slowly enough to allow it to seep down between the parts without trapping air.
4) Cooling. You must not move the parts until they have cooled sufficiently. If you move them during cooling, the mirror-like finish on the solder will glaze over, and indicates an inferior joint.
5) Take your time, and don't rush the job. Redo it if needed.
Regards,
Gordon
The following points are the most ignored / misundertood, IMO:
1) Preparation (sand if necessary, clean, etc). Also clean the iron repeatedly.
2) Fixture. The soldering should be done with the clevis vertical, open end up, and the rod inserted into it. Drill a small hole in a piece of wood to hold the clevis, or grip it in a clothespin.
3) Heat. You need enough heat for the solder to flow freely. Do NOT apply the solder directly to the soldering iron, except for tinning the iron. (There should be just enough residual solder on the iron to allow a small meniscus to form between the iron and the part you apply it to). Apply the iron to one side of the clevis or pushrod, and the solder to the other. Doing this means that the solder will not flow until all components have reached the correct temperature for the optimal joint. Apply the solder slowly enough to allow it to seep down between the parts without trapping air.
4) Cooling. You must not move the parts until they have cooled sufficiently. If you move them during cooling, the mirror-like finish on the solder will glaze over, and indicates an inferior joint.
5) Take your time, and don't rush the job. Redo it if needed.
Regards,
Gordon
