Hello, Has anyone put a cowl on a 4* 120?
Fiberglass Specialties does makes one for the 60 size. I could build up with balsa, but I prefer not to do it that way because of lack of access. Thanks..... lownslo.

Actually you can build a detachable cowl with balsa. I did that with a TF Contender. Make it so the bottom 1/3 can be unscrewed, use a dowel setup to attach one end to the firewall. The top 2/3 is permanently attached

This should give you the access you might need in a pinch.

Bob aka Nuker

Any pics?

Lownslow,
I was looking for the same thing when I found pix, I think, somewhere in this forum, if you do a search youll find some posted here, this fellow did a great job on his 4* and I sent a PM requesting info and heres the response I got, I have copied the pix somewhere, if I can find them Ill go ahead and insert them later.
Anyhow, heres his response.

Roger,
Thanks for all the compliments, you made my face turnRed . The Cowl I used was a Stans fiberglass model GP-216. I installed 1/4" triangle stock on the front sides of the engine mount/firewall plate then cut the stock cheeks of flush to the triangle stock. The cowl was longer than I needed so I trimmed of approx 1 1/4" if I remember right. I am running a Siato150 in the plane so I cut a U shape the engine out of the buttom of the cowl so the cowl can slide around the engine and pitts tubes. The 4* plans call for a 1/8" radius front to back on the top fuselage sides which I did but theis is a tighter radius than the cowls so.... I used my heat gun to slowly warm the top corner radius on the cowl just to the point of the fiberglass becoming soft the quickly slid it on and reformed the cowl around the 1/8" fuselage radius. I did this one side at a time before installing the ultracote covering. I fastened the cowl on with 2 screws on each side ans 1 screw up from the bottom on each side of the U i cut out for engine clearance. If you have never reformed fiberglass go slowly and heat just to the point where in becomes pliable. Don't get the heat gun to close or go past the pliable stage as you will burn the glass and make it brittle.

Thanks Flap, I have this info moved to a folder.
It sounds like my best bet so far. I may have seen the pictures of this guys plane/cowl while surfing. I am just leary of "re-shaping the fiberglass!!!! (my ability to make it come out nice). .... lownslo

There is a series of photos on the Venture60 web site of a cowl being built. You'll be able to replicate, almost exactly, these steps. Look for Jeff's link in the state of Washington.

Other photos of cowls can also be found on the web site.

Hello Steve, I have been on that BTEmodels site before but didn't see that guy from Washington State and the cowl pix. Great photos and THANKS Steve. I had almost decided to just go "stock" but a cowl just sets a plane apart soooooo much. Maybe I am missing something....... How in the world did he get the engine in there. I looked for a seam, where maybe, (after assembly), he cut the cheeks at the firewall. I can only assume that he can "thread" the engine in through the side cylinder hole. I will be running a Saito 1.50 in a 4* 120 so I don't think I want to attach the engine to the mount with just screws. (I'll use bolts and nyloc nuts, and you could not get in with a wrench to hold the nut). I thought maybe I could cut off the cowl..... cut out a "U" shaped hole for the engine, and just slide the cowl on straight back. Then......with the limited access, how in the devil can you attach the cowl??? I have been sent photos of "tab" and dowel pin attachments, but I just can't grasp a solution here. I have not built a lot of planes.... but I feel I can fabricate fairly well..?? .. I like to be able to get to things fairly easy. I just don't know??? I do like the simplicity of using the cheeks for the "frame" of the cowl. It's a little "square shaped", but should have more room inside. Maybe some of you out there can see what I am missing here..... Thanks to all...lownslo