Midwest "Little CAP 232"
04-23-2005, 03:56 AM
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Midwest "Little CAP 232"
I will be building the L/C 232 by Midwest in a few months and am concerned about the dihedral revision to the plans. I am uncomfortable with tracing onto a piece of wood the paper template supplied to make a gauge for setting the ribs at the right angle. Does anyone know the total dihedral for this plane? I would like to machine a gauge for this operation. If you follow the plans, the total dihedral is 4.78 deg. That translate to the gauge having a 87.61 deg. angle on it. The template supplied does not reflect this! The guys at Midwest could offer no help because the plane is so old they dont have it on CAD. Can you guys steer me in the right direction????
Thanks!!
Thanks!!
05-12-2005, 06:40 PM
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RE: Midwest "Little CAP 232"
I have no idea what the correct dihedral is supposed to be. Thats why I started framing up the fuse first! I would go with the least dihedral as possible. More would just make it fly not that great. How far have you come on yours? What engine are you planning on using?
05-15-2005, 08:24 PM
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RE: Midwest "Little CAP 232"
I havnt started my CAP yet just starting the covering stages on my SIG S/E but i'll be using a Super Tiger 90 on it and think i'll be using 1 Deg. total Dihed... Good luck on your build and post pics please....
05-16-2005, 02:10 AM
#4
RE: Midwest "Little CAP 232"
Lots of aerobatic planes build the wing upside down on the plans.
You end up with whatever dihedrahl is pre-built in to the wing ribs at the root.
The Midwest 80" Extra and the Midwest Giles both build flat on the board--only upside down. When your done--the wing is flat on top and the bottom has the angled taper to it.
You end up with whatever dihedrahl is pre-built in to the wing ribs at the root.
The Midwest 80" Extra and the Midwest Giles both build flat on the board--only upside down. When your done--the wing is flat on top and the bottom has the angled taper to it.
05-16-2005, 06:22 PM
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RE: Midwest "Little CAP 232"
<<"I have no idea what the correct dihedral is supposed to be. Thats why I started framing up the fuse first! I would go with the least dihedral as possible. More would just make it fly not that great. How far have you come on yours? What engine are you planning on using?">>
Watch out, Caps are different from Extras or Edges in that they need some dihedral to fly right. Because of the low wing / high stab layout, if you have insufficient dihedral, you'll end-up with REVERSE rudder coupling. That's when the plane rolls left when you give right rudder - definitly not fun and quite disconcerting!.
On a Cap, you need more dihedra than that provided by the taper of the wing ribs. Judging from my H9 80" wingspan Cap 232 (also designed by McConville), you need at least 3" at the tip on a 64" winspan Cap. Look carefully at the pics of Caps and you'll notice they all have quite a bit of dihedral.
Watch out, Caps are different from Extras or Edges in that they need some dihedral to fly right. Because of the low wing / high stab layout, if you have insufficient dihedral, you'll end-up with REVERSE rudder coupling. That's when the plane rolls left when you give right rudder - definitly not fun and quite disconcerting!.
On a Cap, you need more dihedra than that provided by the taper of the wing ribs. Judging from my H9 80" wingspan Cap 232 (also designed by McConville), you need at least 3" at the tip on a 64" winspan Cap. Look carefully at the pics of Caps and you'll notice they all have quite a bit of dihedral.
05-17-2005, 06:48 AM
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RE: Midwest "Little CAP 232"
Fortunately I still have the CAD files for that plane on this laptoop. The correct dihedral is 2.79" under one wingtip, with the other panel flat against the board. That is also with the wing chordline parallel to the bench top.
It is absolutely not true that the less dihedral an airplane has the better it will fly. On an aerobatic airplane, there is only one correct dihedral angle. Too little and it will adverse roll with rudder application. Too much and it will proverse roll.
As mentioned above, the Cap needs more dihedral than and Extra or Edge,. Its primarily a function of the wing location relative to the thrustline. Cap has a very low wing and needs more dihedral. Extra 330L and S have a higher wing and need less. Extra 260, 300 and Edges are mid wings and need zero.
It is absolutely not true that the less dihedral an airplane has the better it will fly. On an aerobatic airplane, there is only one correct dihedral angle. Too little and it will adverse roll with rudder application. Too much and it will proverse roll.
As mentioned above, the Cap needs more dihedral than and Extra or Edge,. Its primarily a function of the wing location relative to the thrustline. Cap has a very low wing and needs more dihedral. Extra 330L and S have a higher wing and need less. Extra 260, 300 and Edges are mid wings and need zero.
05-19-2005, 09:13 PM
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RE: Midwest "Little CAP 232"
Mike,
If you are still following this thread, I have an unbuilt model also. Do you think a ST 90 will work on this plan, or a YS 120 NC. Will this plane 3D if built properly
Thanks, mark
If you are still following this thread, I have an unbuilt model also. Do you think a ST 90 will work on this plan, or a YS 120 NC. Will this plane 3D if built properly
Thanks, mark
06-27-2006, 07:28 AM
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RE: Midwest "Little CAP 232"
Anyone finish up there little cap? Mine is sitting in the garage. I have a few projects ahead of it though. Getting my 260, plus I have my Carden I am recovering.
