Rcpilot

My Feedback: (78)

You guys want to see a complete build thread for the Lanier Stinger 10 kit?

Thanks

DamonTX

Have at it! I don't think I've run across one on RCU before and I've never built a Lanier so it would be interesting to follow.

Fubar-One

My Feedback: (1)

I have one of these kits waiting to be built. Will use wither an OS .15CVA or possibly an MVVS .21 or .26 I have handy. The OS .15CVA would probably the better choice tho...

Rcpilot

My Feedback: (78)

I looked at the OS .15CVA. I'm sure it's a great little powerhouse--but not in the budget for this project.
I've bought an OS25LA NIB here on RCU.
My intent with this kit is a small, cheap, knock-around plane that I could MAYBE do some mild 3D if I make a few mods to all the control surfaces and the tail assembly as well.

I'd planned on scratching some bigger ailerons using built-up techniques to keep the weight down----as opposed to the stock slabs of balsa.

I also wanted to try counterbalanced elevators and rudder. Of course the area of the rudder and elevators would be increased about 20--30%.

I wanted to try and build a stick fuselage for it---and scrap the doorskins. I may use the doorskins in the front of the fuse. as a doubler, but after the wing saddle--it's gonna have to be something lighter. I also want to core the wings. Air is lighter than foam--after all.

My intent is to basically re-kit this little bugger right outta the box. I'm going for as much weight reduction as possible. Probably run it without a cowl---not much of it left after I hack it for a .25 engine anyway. Definetly scrap the wheelpants on this plane.

Servos are still up in the air. My original intent was to use 6 Hitec HS-81 servos in the plane. That would have meant a dedictaed servo for each control surface and one for the throttle. I could get away with an HS-55 on the throttle--and save a little weight over that 6th HS-81.

One guy here at RCU suggested an HS-225 for the elevator--another HS-225 for the rudder, and a single HS-225 for the ailerons with an HS-81 for the throttle. He said it would be lighter than 6 of the HS-81 servos. It is only 4 servos---as opposed to my idea of using 6 servos. I will have to compare all the weights and get the lightest setup.

Only thing I can't do is a LI-poly battery. I just don't have that stuff---and not going to invest in it for this little plane. I'll most likely use a niMH battery at 6V. I'm thinking something in the range of 400mah--maybe 600mah at the most. I got a field charger when it gets low on juice.

If this thing comes in over 3 pounds-----no 3D. The 25LA just won't have the grunt at this altitude to hover anything over 38--45 ounces.

We shall see...........

Fubar-One

My Feedback: (1)

Well, I am kind of weird and always seem to acquire the engines first. THEN I look for a kit to put em on. So... I have the .15CVA and the MVVS's on hand. Will probably use HS225 servos on it. I have those on a couple of other planes and like the smaller size and faster speed higher torque. Used them on my original Tower Kaos kit with dual aileron servos. Thing would go from high speed level flight to straight up vertical like it was bank shot into the air.
Planning on using them on the replacement Kaos also.
I built an Uproar 40 kit because I had a brand new OS .32SX sitting around needing a home.
Definite pattern there!
I figure to keep my Shrike pretty much stock. Not enough of a builder yet to do much in the way of kit bashing. I figure if I get it to look like the picture on the box I am way ahead of the game!
Definitely interested in the build thread tho!!

KingCobra

My Feedback: (17)

I'd like to see your building tips. I just purchased a Stinger 10 kit to build as electric, and I'd be particularly interested in your mods to save weight.

camss69

My Feedback: (46)

Unfortunately I usually do it the other way, buy that kit or plane that I just have to have, and then it sits, and sits and sits... until finally I scratch up the money to go buy the engine. It would probably be a much quicker process if I bought the engine first...

Geeze I still have a NIB bonanza waiting to be started until I get the engine and retracts but I dont' want to spend the $$... someday...

FenceMagnet

My Feedback: (2)

I have one waiting to be built, also.... I had the same thoughts on building it a lot lighter.... and I bought a lightweight Norvel bushing .15 for it...

[:-]

KaosDriver

I'm all for the Stinger Thread! Have one on the way for my Thunder Tiger .15 It will be nice to have a thread to follow for something affordable yet rewarding. It's a blast trying to maximize simpler projects. I have all types of ideas in the works to share later!

Rcpilot

My Feedback: (78)

Stinger kit will be here shortly. I'm going to order it from Tower in the next couple days.

I guess I'll use Dave Brown sorgouhm(sp?) for the sheeting. I've used it before, and I like the idea of "stick it and forget it". Epoxy and gorilla glue take time to cure and I don't wanna spend hours holding the stuff together and watching glue dry. I don't have enough weight around here to shove the wings back in the cores and weight it down overnight. So- contact cement seams pretty straightforward and easy enough to work with. Just don't sneeze or fart when your about ready to put a piece of balsa on the foam.[&:]

Turns out--my original idea of using 6 HS-81 servos will be lighter than using the HS-225 servos and only using 4 of them. Can't remember exactly--but it was someting in the area of an ounce or maybe 1.5oz lighter with the 6 servo setup using the HS-81.

Servo city was having a sale last week and I passed up a helluva deal on the HS-81 servos at $14 apiece. DOH!![:@] Oh well.

I found a little 6V niMH battery for it. 600mah should get me through 3 flights before I need a field charge.

My wife wants me to cover this plane in clear and purple and flamingo pink--I think we need to discuss that further.[X(]

I'll start building in a few weeks. I'm not a fast builder--so be patient with me. I'm going to spend a bunch of time just re-engineering it for weight reduction. Heck--it took me 6 weeks once to build a 40 size ARF[:-]

tonyc

My Feedback: (4)

You would only use 3 of the 225 and one 81, see post #4.
Weight wise that would work out to 3.48 oz for the 81 and 3.43 oz for the 225 combination. And that is just the raw servo weight, you would increase that by adding servo arms, etc.

But you need to do what makes you happy. One oz more or less will not make a difference.

tonyc

Fubar-One

My Feedback: (1)

Duh!
I dont have a Stinger 10 kit, I have a Shrike 10 kit! Guess I need glasses worse than I thought.[8D]

thedak

My Feedback: (21)

Sounds good to me. I've had mine for 2 years now. Still in the box of course.

KaosDriver

What's happened to all my Stinger 10 buddies? I waited all this time for my kit, expecting to read what you guys have been doing with yours! Mine is nearly ready to cover. I built the wing and tail per plans, but bashed the fuse. I inverted it (low wing), used the formers upright as is, discarded the plastic, and replaced it with a built-up balsa fore and aft turtledeck. Open cockpit. No cowl or pants. It's looking like a full- scale homebuilt. T. T. 15 for power. 4 oz. tank fits nicely. Airtronics VG 6000 radio, with standard servos (all I've got available). Being a low-wing, I mounted the aileron servo on the bottom of the wing creating lots of room in the fuse. I'll be happy with a weight at the high end of recommended, providing a wing loading of @ 21 oz. Should be manageable for this design. The cowl provided is a joke as is the tank cover. My wheel pants don't come close to lining up. The box this thing comes in is bigger than my new Kaos' box. Not much inside though. I'll try to provide pictures soon.

adrenalnjunky

My Feedback: (18)

Fubar -One: About your Shrike, make sure you read the build threads when you do build it -- short story though - reinforce the main spar.

Alas I didn't find that out until after I had covered mine - I have that same OS .15 CVA on mine - I'm trying to find the right prop for it, but it does make the thing move.

NorfolkSouthern

OK, so there was going to be a build thread on the Stinger 10. But no posts, no photos. What gives? I may be starting another Stinger 10 this Winter, but sold my partially built kit last December for financial reasons. It's good to have the info on servos, that will help me in setting up the next one should I decide to start.

Some of the questions I have, in regards to the cowl: how does one reinforce the insides of it with fiberglass? The instructions recommend the use of thin CA, which worked well for bonding some lite ply parts to the ABS. However, I tend to prefer 30 minute epoxy, as it is strong and can be spread out. How it will stick to ABS is uncertain for me, though.

I will also note that Tower Hobbies has an ARF version of the Stinger 10 available:

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXSVE3&P=7

I have yet to see any write ups on it, perhaps the problem could be due to lack of interest? The semi-symmetrical wing is a big plus for this model, it looks like it'll go where it's pointed. I have uploaded a photo of the build I started, complete with the cap strips on the wing. I will subscribe to this thread, and post results as I start building again. I think this will be helpful for many folks who are starting on these. For the record: This is NOT an easy kit to build, it requires a great deal of measuring, drilling, and shaping.

NorfolkSouthern

NorfolkSouthern

There are a few things worth noting about the Stinger 10 kit. FIRST: Be sure to use ONE mounting screw in the center of the wing. Not two, but ONE. If you use two screws, then the each will get in the way of the aileron linkages when attaching/detaching the wing. SECONDLY: The port for the fuel tank needs to be drilled just after epoxying the two halves together and test mounting the engine mount. The hole needs to be located in the center so that the tubes can be routed through the engine mount to the engine, and this is MUCH easier than doing the task after the the fuselage is put together. Also, it is recommended that a hatch be built for the fuel tank area, for maintenance and for access to the receiver.

When cutting in the center wing notch: Be sure to mark the CENTER of the wing first. Then, determine the width of the notch, divide that by 2 and then mark each line for the notch from the center, using that calculation. If I can get a kit, I will have a photo illustrating this available.

NorfolkSouthern

Rcpilot

My Feedback: (78)

I will start a different thread when I get to the Stinger 10. My airplane hobby interests are in a completely different world right now. I've still got the kit. Just busy developing my own design on a totally different type of airplane right now.

I might get into the airplane business. A friend and I are developing and building a prototype of our design rigth now. It's big. It's light. It's 3D. And it's a kit with traditional balsa and ply construction.