I just started building the fuse on my TF P-47 (60 size). I'm at the part for fitting the horizontal stab to the fuse. I've run into two problems. First, the stab doesn't fit well into the saddle. The instuctions tell not to sand the saddle because of the angle of incidence. The stab tends to see-saw a little in the saddle. If I sand the middle out a little would that be OK? Second, I sanded a little too much around the front part of the saddle causing a gap between the fuse and the stab. A little too big for filler. Should I fill it with balsa and re-sand or have I destroyed this model? I'll have pictures on Sunday when I get back home. Thanks in advance.

Mike

No worries, you have not ruined the kit. It is normal on most kits to have to sand the stab or wing saddle lightly to get the desired amount of fit. I would take it easy, make sure the saddle is level while you sand, but get the stab to fit nice. I never build a kit without an incidence meter, perfect for times like this. Second, use some scrap balsa and fill it in, then re-sand/re-work the area. I find this works best than any type of Wood filler. Good Luck and Happy Building.

just use a good speed square when you set it up and fill as needed when you find everything to be set up at a 90deg angle,i measure from tip of stab to a center place on the front of the fuse,then i measure from bottom to the work surface I'm on and make them equal on both sides.then mix 30 minute and set everything up that way as i go i can make adjustments.let it set overnight it says 30 minutes to set 2 hours to handle but epoxy cures slow inside and needs 24 hours make sure you got good lightning and take all your measurements you should come out OK,even if it does come out a little high on one side most of these models fly pretty good even with our mistakes.and skillnotluck i built one of these models,they are a challenge especially the engine mount rails.i had to sand my wing saddle and rear horzonital stab to get things true,just think in terms of everything being in square.building is so much fun to do you have a sense of accomplishment when you see them fly for the first time.i had a saito 120 on the front of mine with Robert retracts...happy flying

Thanks for the input. I'm still on the road right now. Can't wait to start building again. I agree, there is a lot of satisfaction that comes with building a kit. This is only my second one and first warbird. It is additive though. Sometimes I go in the garage, and three hours go by like three minutes. One of these days, I'm afraid my wife is going to destroy it. Do any of you catch any heat for this? Like I said, I'll post some pictures when I get home.

Mike

TF make great kits. i finished my TF 1/7 mustang in ~2½months i hop your a more lucky then my on the maiden. mine was totaled.

I've fixed the problem with the gap by filling it with balsa. As far as the saddle, I've sanded a little and finally got a good fit. I just epoxyed the stab and rudder. Now to my surprise, I noticed that fuse has bowed when I unpinned it from the table. Is this normal? If not, can it be fixed?

Here's one more.

your building table is too flimsy that is the problem. You need a 2X4 frame and a door core plumbed level. On top of that a layer of builders insulation glued on in the corners and the center. It has to be dense enough to hold pins., Do it now or you will ruin your plane. it can fly fine with a offset stab but the wing needs to be right on. Do some serches on here on building boards

Tim
N318RC

Thanks for the input on the building board. I will try to get a better one. However, the one I am using is solid plywood and it is flat. If I press down hard on the fuse, it will meet the table. I believe the reason it may be bending is because of the skins. They had a slight curve at the bottom and I had to press down and pin as I glued the skin to the stringer. I was hoping to find something in the directions that addressed this.

I built one of these in October-Febuary last year. When you build a kit make sure that it is on a unbending, level surface. I know someone said to use a door and I used one, but as long as that plywood does not bend and is straight you will be fine. The fuse you can fix by using filler and scrap balsa to fill in the bottom when you start glueing the bottom or when you glue on the bottom pieces you can straighten out the bow. I also used a 4X2 ceiling tile to pin my plane to because it is a pain in the butt to pin it to bare wood. The kit you are building was my first kit and after I got it finished and got it covered it was heavy. One suggestion though and I wish I had did it, is to use 3/32 sheeting on the wings instead of 1/16. it just gives you a little more sanding room and makes the wings tougher.

I've made a little progress since I posted last. Here is where I am so far. I'm getting the hang of sheeting. I thought this would be a lot harder than building my Easy Sport, but its not that bad. I'm already thinking of what I'm going to build next. Probably another Top Flite kit. They seem to be made for the non expert modeler in mind. I went out and got a hollow core door. Thanks for the advice on that. I would like to know more about the ceiling tile. It seems to me like it would be too soft. Does it really work? I'll post more soon.

Mike

Now there are a lot of different kinds of ceiling tile out there. I used the thick 1/2 inch ceiling tile that you find most commonly hanging in stores and in resturants. It pinned down fine for me, but I had to screw it down to the door to make it flat since it bowed a little. A little note on building the wings. If there is a little twist or if the wing is just not right an 1/8 inch or a little more do not worry about it. It can be trimmed out later in flight. Mine was around 1/2 or a little less off on the dihedral and it flys great. I used a supertigre .75 with a slimline pitts muffler (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXFG90&P=0) and had to adjust the engine mount a little to allow for the muffler to go straight out the bottom. It sounds sweet. I get a lot of comments on how it sounds better than a four stroke. I had to cut a pretty good bit of the muffler off to get it to fit correctly. I would post pics but I cannot get my friend to get them off his camera.

Mike,

I am building the same plane and I'm to the point of mounting the retracts. you can find my build documented here:

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_28..._1/key_/tm.htm

As far as building surface goes, I currently use a 3'x 8' peice of modular furniture desktop that was surplussed from work. It is dead flat and really heavy so it doesn't move around. But to build on, I got a sheet of 1/2" of the pink builders foam (what they use to sheet the sides of houses) and secured that to the board. It works really will and doesnt' crumble like ceiling tiles can.