windsurfer

My Feedback: (37)

Hi guys,

Does anybody out there know how to use silkspan and dope method to cover an old timer?
Can you guys be very specific about this process?
(1) What kind of dope should I use over the balsa frame before applying silkspan? And how many coats?
(2) Any sanding once the dope dries?
(3) Should I wet the silkspan first before draping over the balsa frame?
(4) What dope (or glue) should I use to attach the silkspan over balsa?
(5) What kind of dope should I brush on silkspan once it dries for shrinkage?

Thanks a bunch.

s. wallace

My Feedback: (24)

Just check out the Brodak web site. They have small ads in the model mags- that will give the web address.

They are an outfit that has done a lot to bring control line flying back... they sell excellent quality dope products & have a little brochure that explains everything step by step


Scott

wrbirch

My Feedback: (1)

Sand the wing down good with 300 or better. apply two cotes on nitrate dope to balsa. this is a base for attaching silkspan. now wet silkspan and sponge dry it, then lay on wing. Make sure it is square and no wrinkles. now, with a small brush, apply nitrate dope on top of silkspan where it touches balsa, this dope will penitrate silkspan and adhear to first two cotes of dope on balsa. Repeat after this cote is dry. now you can fully cote silkspan with one or two coats of nitrate or butrate dope . the silkspan will shrink and become very tight. I have used butrate dope to adhear the silkspan down to the balsa and it worked ok, but the " experts " sy use nitrate for adhearing nd the first two cotes.
Danger !!!!!!!!! nitrate dope is very combustable, only use it outside, away from any and all sparts and static electricity !!!!!!

Den B

Hello what I have done


#1 Nitrate it sticks better (full strength)

#2 Light sand with the same grit you finnish sanded with after dope is dry

#3 Wet and set between two clean towels , good and damp is best it will help to conform to curves better.

#3A Mist it so it does not dry out while doping it down.

#4 Over sheeting ? same as the open framing But use added coats for smooooooooooooooth finnish you'll be suprised how nice it works.

# 5 Silk span will shrink by itself tight! if you did your part just snug it around the framing while attaching

#6 What wrbirch said


# 7 Nitrate Dope is not fuel proof

#8 Buterate Dope is fuel proof

#9 Buterate OVER Nitrate is Good

#10 Nitrate over Buterate is Bad


Den

TexasAirBoss

My Feedback: (22)

Oh........my.........God!!!............ . REAL BUILDERS!!!!! ..........COME QUICK EVERYBODY!!!!

Steve Campbell2

Well, the last time I used silkspan & dope was on a Goldberg Lil' Satan, in the late 60s. Thanks for all the reminders on how to do it.

I'm thinking about it for this reason: our club has started a local pylon race event. Engine must be the LA 40 and airframe must be the Tower Dazzler or UpRoar. So the key will be he who has the lightest model wins.

I'm wondering if a silkspan/dope finish, with just two or three coats of butyrate on top to turn the fuel (15% nitro), would be lighter than an UltraCote film finish.

Anybody know?

Steve

Den B

Steve if real light is the goal go for Real Silk . the cost is bigger and not as easy as Silkspan to work with but the weight saving is even better.
Silk is the strongest lightest covering you can use and yes two to three seal coats and one color coat will work and still be less weight than Iron on film.
Sig sells Silk fabric for planes just look around or order direct from Sig.


Good luck


Den


Oh you can look here too http://www.modelflight.com/weight.html

Steve Campbell2

Thanks, Den.

Steve

windsurfer

My Feedback: (37)

Thank you, all.

Jim Finn

My Feedback: (2)

I am still using silkspan and dope on some of my electric airplanes and I do it as discribed above. I use nitrate dope and then cheap walmart spray paint. On my scale biplanes I have dyed it with rit dye and then printed on it with my inkjet printer(black only, colors will run) Looks great! You can use silkspan over foam using thinned elmers glue also.