Hi" everyone:
Winter is here so I'm bulding a kit.
(Sig Kadet Senior).
I want to put eilerons on it and need help.
What do I need and how do I build it ?
Thanks...

Sounds like you don't have much experience? Building a kit exactly to instructions is one skill level. Modifying a kit successfully is quite another skill level!! Building from scratch is the next level up. Here is everything you need to know about sizing ailerons, but won't lay out how to build them. Good luck!

http://www.freewebs.com/klowdklimbers/ezRCdesign.html

Glue the trailing edge in place, and then cut off all but 1/4" of it.

Double up the inside of the remaining 1/4" stock with 1/4" x 1/4" stock to give the hinges something more substantial to grab on to.

Bevel the Leading edge of the piece you cut off and hinge it in place.

The ailerons will be small, but they will be effective.

Flyranger and MinnFlyer:

You guys are the greatest,I knew you would
come through for me. Yes , it's my first kit build.
But I think I can handle it with you helping me.
Thanks for the imfo. and I'll keep you guys
updated on my progess.
Later......

I have kit bashed a few seniors, opting to add barn door flaps and matching airlerons. If you cut in much deeper and frame in flaps and airlerons, and increase the rudder size and max the throws on the elevators, the plane is capable of almost 3D like manovers but at a slow motion speed. I could take off land verically in a stiff breeze, do tight loops, inverted flight (take out the dehidreal) and climb verically by using a much larger engine (90) and a wide, low pitch prop for lots of thrust. Our club ended up with quite a few of these and we had to have special events just for them becuase the other planes just cannot compete. For example spot landings... exactly on the mark, bomb drops the same. Take off and land in a quarter of the time of traditional planes and harrier with little effort.
One thing.. make sure to add gussets at all of the structural points in the stick built fuse..and beef up the firewall to allow for over power. Use high power servos on those big flaps and airlerons.. the plane builts so light for its size it does not even notice the wieght.
Some changed it to a tail dragger, others used beefed up tric gear ( you get real crazy with the landings when a plane can take off, cut a 10 foot circle and land again, lol) The flaps are half as long as each half, about 3" deep and go full 90 degress down. This gives incredable lift and allows the plane to flie are rediculous slow speeds

The last one I built I really modified the cowl to give the other wise ugly duckling some style. The weak point on the looks side for this traditonal looking high wing is the very repulsive cowling. Use some imagination, look at Cesna or Super Cubs for some ideas. I used fiberglass prefabs then when from there. The Rudder angles and be played with too, adding style and area at the same time. Oh.. we used horizontal stab braces as well allow the plane to take the punishmen of the manuvers it was capable of.. but I recall a few guys didnt do so and had no problems. And... this plane is a natural for a bomb drop with its huge fuse so every one had one of those.. dropping candy was always popular, lol..

Bes regards,
Randy

Randy :
Sounds really awesome ,I sure would like to see those planes fly.
I will take some dihidreal out , convert to tail drager and I would
like to add the bomb bay. Also I will put floats on it.
Could you tell me more in detail about
the flaps,aileron and rudder. Like how far do I cut into the ribs
for the flaps and aileron ,how long and wide are they to be? How
much bigger the rudder should be ? I'm new at this as you can tell.
I enjoy this hobby dearly and its on my mind 24-7. Its a great hobby.
Catch you Later... Les

It has been a while since I built the last one and I sold my last one as well to make room. If I recall the flaps and airlerons are about 3 " deep and run from just outside of the fuse to the last rib by the tip.. I know the flap was a bit shorter than the airleron but I must have used a common rib to make the split. I recall I just traced a profile of the common ribs, then drew on some half inch balsa to cap where I made the cuts. Then I cut the rib and used it as a templete to mark the other ribs. The flap had an angle cut with fowler type hinges. The servo has to to be strong because you need a long arm to make the flaps go down as close to 90 degrees as possilbe. The rudder was only increased by about 1 inch over all as it is pretty big now. but more helps when you are doing a harrier a foot of the ground, lol. Funny thing is we never heard of 3D in those days, I guess we kinda created it, lol.
Regards,
Randy

Thanks Randy , I'll give it a try.
Les