GP Super Skybolt suggestions
#1
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 12
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Pennsylvania
I just purchased the Skybolt and haven't begun putting it together just yet. I'm very excited about this kit. I'm hearing it is one of the hardest kits from GP to put together. I'm thinking of going with a Saito 150 up front. I'm looking for any tips or anything that anyone has come across that I should know of before entering the building stages of this beast. I'm also looking to throw a smoke system in it, but do not know where to start with that. Any suggestions? I have an Extra 300s with an OS .91 two-stroke running a TME smoke system. I had to get a specialized muffler and had to poke around to get it to fit/work right. I want to try to make the smoke system stage go as smoothly as I can with the skybolt. This will be my first biplane. I will hopefully take pictures of the building stage and post them on here as I progress.
#2

My Feedback: (14)
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 759
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Crestview, FL
I built one of these a few years ago right after they first came out and at that time there was a problem with one of the cabane wires being bent wrong. It was about 1/4" too long, or too short, I can't remember. A friend was building one at the same time and his had the same problem. If used, it would have thrown the incidence of the top wing off drastically. I had to make a new one.
They've probably fixed this by now, but it might not be a bad idea to check it, just in case...
They've probably fixed this by now, but it might not be a bad idea to check it, just in case...
#3
Junior Member
My Feedback: (1)
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 24
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Concord,
OH
Built mine last winter, after being away from rc for 15+ years. It went together very nice and flies great. I needed to add a TON of weigt up front. I am using a OS FS91-P up front, if doing over I would put the 120 in instead. This plan flies great I love it. The only thing to wath out for is tip stalling when flying slow and turning.
#5

Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 260
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Somewhere in, ME
I've been sloooowly building my Skybolt since about Feb. No problems with the kit, just never find enough time to work on it. I've got some pics of the ongoing build at the following site:
http://home.maine.rr.com/wydah/
I'm planning to try a GMS .76 engine, but I'm afraid this bird is going to weigh in at around 9lbs, so it probably won't have enough power to do much.
Anyboby else out there using this size engine or smaller on this plane? Will it at least be able to take off and circle the field
Have fun on your build!
-Fitz.
http://home.maine.rr.com/wydah/
I'm planning to try a GMS .76 engine, but I'm afraid this bird is going to weigh in at around 9lbs, so it probably won't have enough power to do much.
Anyboby else out there using this size engine or smaller on this plane? Will it at least be able to take off and circle the field

Have fun on your build!
-Fitz.
#6
Senior Member
My Feedback: (19)
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 2,156
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Evansville, IN
Build it as light as possible because they usually come out heavy. mine balances with a saito 120 with the battery in the plan location and weighs a smidge over 10 lbs. definetly use ailerons on both wings but mostly figure out a way to build it lighter
#7
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 12
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Pennsylvania
Those are some nice pictures. I take it you got the fiberglass cowl instead? I'm thinking of doing the same. I don't want to deal with the 2 piece plastic GP kit cowl.
#8

Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 260
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Somewhere in, ME
Hi,
Yeah, I bought an Aeroglass cowl from Dave at Quantum Models. www.quantummodels.com I think it was around $25. I might still build up the ABS one with the kit, but have read that the ABS plastic cowls don't hold up very well. My only other deviations from the kit plans are a pull-pull rudder connection, and I'm going to use a dual servo set-up with a reverser on the split elevators as opposed to the "Y" rod single servo set-up. Definitely going to go with the ailerons on both upper and lower wings as recommended by others.
Hey smallfly, any idea of the weight of your Saito 120? Trying to get an idea of how mine will balance out when all is said and done. My GMS.76 with the pitts muffler, spinner, and prop set-up I have weighs 2lbs by itself! I'm hoping I won't have a tail heavy problem (as most claim to have) with that much weight sitting on the nose.
Thanks,
-Fitz.
Yeah, I bought an Aeroglass cowl from Dave at Quantum Models. www.quantummodels.com I think it was around $25. I might still build up the ABS one with the kit, but have read that the ABS plastic cowls don't hold up very well. My only other deviations from the kit plans are a pull-pull rudder connection, and I'm going to use a dual servo set-up with a reverser on the split elevators as opposed to the "Y" rod single servo set-up. Definitely going to go with the ailerons on both upper and lower wings as recommended by others.
Hey smallfly, any idea of the weight of your Saito 120? Trying to get an idea of how mine will balance out when all is said and done. My GMS.76 with the pitts muffler, spinner, and prop set-up I have weighs 2lbs by itself! I'm hoping I won't have a tail heavy problem (as most claim to have) with that much weight sitting on the nose.
Thanks,
-Fitz.
#9
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 1,405
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
From: Salmon ArmBritish Columbia, CANADA
Great pictures of your build....really gives someone like me who is about to embark on thier first kit build some perspective!
When gluing down sheeting, would it be better to use a slower curing glue so that you can take some time to pae and glue it down as you have done?
Also I see that you have dampened the sheetingprior to bending it. I assume that you moisten only the outside of the curve?
When gluing down sheeting, would it be better to use a slower curing glue so that you can take some time to pae and glue it down as you have done?
Also I see that you have dampened the sheetingprior to bending it. I assume that you moisten only the outside of the curve?
#11
Senior Member
My Feedback: (19)
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 2,156
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Evansville, IN
It can be done but it will take a lot of modifications. All of the servos would have to be moved into the rear portion of the fuselage using a hatch for access, a mini servo for throttle up as far as you can get it would clear the center section but you still have the 2 wing hold down bars in the way. Not worth it in my opinion, and this bird sure doesnt need any more weight but it has been done successfully if you really want to do it.
#12

Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 260
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Somewhere in, ME
Hi David,
First let me explain that this is only my 3rd kit build, and therefore I'm not sure how qualified I am to answer your build questions. I'm sure there are many others on this forum which are more experienced at this and would be more than willing to assist. I'm kind of learning as I go, but so far my kits seem to turn out fine.
The Skybolt is much more intense (ie more shaving, sanding, bending) than my trainer, or the Texan I built. As for the sheeting, most is only 1/16th balsa, which bends pretty easy on it's own, but I do dampen the outside surface a few minutes before trying to bend around any kind of curved surface. There are a few places on the Skybolt which have thicker (3/16" I believe) sheets to bend into place. The belly section under the nose comes to mind! I soaked this heavily for about 10 mins before bending and then clamping in place while the glue dries. I have been using med. CA, but can see where a slower curing glue might give you the advantage of lining things up a bit before instantly sticking. I think a wood glue like tightbond might be easier especially on the wing sheeting since it is critical that it be flat when sheeting the wing. Thick CA also bonds a bit slower and might give you a few extra seconds to get things right.
Hope this helps. Which kit are you about to "embark" on?
I have almost as much fun building them as I do "trying" to fly them.
-Fitz.
First let me explain that this is only my 3rd kit build, and therefore I'm not sure how qualified I am to answer your build questions. I'm sure there are many others on this forum which are more experienced at this and would be more than willing to assist. I'm kind of learning as I go, but so far my kits seem to turn out fine.
The Skybolt is much more intense (ie more shaving, sanding, bending) than my trainer, or the Texan I built. As for the sheeting, most is only 1/16th balsa, which bends pretty easy on it's own, but I do dampen the outside surface a few minutes before trying to bend around any kind of curved surface. There are a few places on the Skybolt which have thicker (3/16" I believe) sheets to bend into place. The belly section under the nose comes to mind! I soaked this heavily for about 10 mins before bending and then clamping in place while the glue dries. I have been using med. CA, but can see where a slower curing glue might give you the advantage of lining things up a bit before instantly sticking. I think a wood glue like tightbond might be easier especially on the wing sheeting since it is critical that it be flat when sheeting the wing. Thick CA also bonds a bit slower and might give you a few extra seconds to get things right.
Hope this helps. Which kit are you about to "embark" on?
I have almost as much fun building them as I do "trying" to fly them.

-Fitz.
#13
Senior Member
My Feedback: (4)
Originally posted by ml3456
Anybody ever add smoke system to their Skybolt?
Anybody ever add smoke system to their Skybolt?
http://204.96.183.34
I'm using a YS91AC for power and a TME smoke pump with "Ultra Smoke" oil.
#14
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 12
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Pennsylvania
Is there anywhere specific or special you need to put the smoke pump? I heard with the TME pump, you don't want it anywhere where it can vibrate. The magnets can crack on the motor of the pump? This true?
#15
Junior Member
My Feedback: (18)
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 14
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: CARROLLTON,
TX
The GP Super Skybolt was my second plane when I got into RCing in 1993. I totalled it, (Pilot error), built another in 2000, totalled it due to a servo tray glitch, and just ordered my third one from Ebay.
I use a Saito 1.20, and it is a beautiful flyer. The third time around, I'll use ailerons on both wings. I found the kit to be very well put together, and building was a dream. (A rather long one) I definately recommend the fiber glass cowl. I use Stan's Fiber Tech. Good luck.
Sandy, Plano TX
I use a Saito 1.20, and it is a beautiful flyer. The third time around, I'll use ailerons on both wings. I found the kit to be very well put together, and building was a dream. (A rather long one) I definately recommend the fiber glass cowl. I use Stan's Fiber Tech. Good luck.
Sandy, Plano TX
#16

My Feedback: (30)
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 493
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: flemington,
NJ
hardest kits from GP to put together
I was so fustrated building this kit. I only want a nice arf to build.
There are a few places on the Skybolt which have thicker (3/16" I believe) sheets to bend into place. The belly section under the nose comes to mind!
#18

Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 632
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Darien, IL
Minn Flyer,
I am putting smoke in mine also, but using the YS 120 pressurized system. With two tanks, it pushed the fuel tank back almost behind the cg. Did you have any balance problems, especially with the fuel tanks full?
Thanks, mark
I am putting smoke in mine also, but using the YS 120 pressurized system. With two tanks, it pushed the fuel tank back almost behind the cg. Did you have any balance problems, especially with the fuel tanks full?
Thanks, mark
#22
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 244
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Ravensdale, WA,
On page twelve of the instructions, under the heading "assembling the fuselage", step three tells you to fit and glue the belly former. Then in step four it tells you to slip the wing blocks in place. These two steps must be worked together otherwise you can't install the blocks after the belly former dries. When you assemble the fuse sides you need to thoroughly wet the sides, tape and clamp everything together, as the sides have a slight curve to them and are fairly thick. A 50/50 solution of alcohol and water work well for this. I found that if you wet and clamp everything and let it dry and then wet it again while you glue everything it works the best. Don't try to bend it all at once. Also try not to work too big an area at a time. When you are done with these steps you may want to drink whatever is left of the solution. It can be tricky. The payoff is you end up with a nice fuselage and not a square box. Good luck.
#23
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 12
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Pennsylvania
That's exactly what I did. Good thing I tried to dry fit pretty much all the bulkheads and the belly former before glueing. I found out I had to do those in the same step. I actually finished that step up this morning.
#24
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 12
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Pennsylvania
Anyone out there install a Saito 120 in this bird? I'm at the point of making the firewall. Do I need any spacers? and is the engine mount they supplied good enough? I do not have the engine at this time and probably won't for a couple of months. Maybe Santa will bring one.
How do I go about drilling the holes and mounting it before acquiring the engine?
How do I go about drilling the holes and mounting it before acquiring the engine?
#25
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 244
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Ravensdale, WA,
The GP engine mount supplied is too small for the 1.20 Saito. I used a Dubro soft mount. No spacers are needed. I'd put the moves on Santa if it'll speed up engine delivery. It's handy for set up.


