fallingleaf

My Feedback: (1)

Airborne, possibly yeah! But as I said I haven't flown my yet so haven't made A final verdict on that possibility lol I have a 120ax in mine(technically WAY overpowered) so it will theoretically do a hover and then some! We will see when it is finnished and flying, I would like to think it can, then I won't have to spend heaps on an aeroworks yak if 3d is what I want to do in the future....seem risky though![:@]

JohnMcGowan

My Feedback: (15)

Airborne, give me the skinny on how to set up the ultimate for 3D please. I tried doing some hovering with mine this past weekend, but it was mostly pilot error ( thats read ME!!
I couldnt find a spot where it would hover, either it was too slow or it pulled out of hover. Maybe its the prop I have on it now?- a 16x8 installed on a YS 120AC. It is NOT lacking for power with this engine. Also if you will, tell me all about the needed amount of throws on the movable surfaces as well as the needed cg and anything esle you can think of please. Mine is a little nose heavy right now.
Thanks much!! John

Cub Man

My Feedback: (50)

A Sad day. I lost my Ultimate this weekend on take off. The fus is in great shape. The firewall broke in and only cracked the sides where it mounts. A good afternoon of work and that is fixed. For the wings that is another story. The tips are in good shape but the center foot of the wing is history. I called great planes they now has Goldberg. They don’t have and won’t have any wing kits fore it. They want $23 plus shipping just for a copy of the plans. So dose anyone know some one that has a wing kit, or has an extra set of plans.

dale691

Anyone got some more pics of the way you have installed aileron servos in the wing? at the moment i'm leaning towards a plate with the the servo mounted on it I think!

fallingleaf

My Feedback: (1)

Here we go, don't know if you have seen them already from my thread. Access panel is also the basplate upon which the servos are side-mounted. Servos screwed into a 1/4" piece of aircraft ply which is epoxied (at least 45min). I also placed a thin strip of fibreglass in a 'L' fashion for added strength.

hope that helps!

dale691

Thanks for the pics, this is the way I was thinking of doing mine, how have you secured the hatches to the wing?? looks like a piece of ply in there some how

are you using 2 or 4 servos for the ailerons?

cheers

fallingleaf

My Feedback: (1)

yeah just some 3/16 aircraft ply peices there to screw the servo plate/hatch into, and then a small 1/4" ply scrap above where the screw goes in to give a little more 'bite' for the screw thread. I just used standard servo mounting screws on all parts of this aspect of the plane. only two servos in the bottom wing, high torque 120 oz servos.

Pro-E

My Feedback: (1)

Hey gang.

I found this thread while doing research for my next build. I've got an Ultrafly Ultimate and decided that I wanted to get into the bigger versions. Looked at other Ultimate kits and the Super Skybolt until I decided on the Goldberg 10-300. I just wanted to say thank you to everyone who has contributed to this thread, as I will be using it as I go. There is some fantastic information in here.

-Tuwood-
.....sorry about the loss, but I'm very pleased to hear that Futaba has stepped up to replace someting that they could have talked their way out of. I'm glad to see you building another and I will be checking the thread on a regular basis (subscribed). I hope to see you get the second done as soon as your schedule permits.

I dont have the kit yet, but hope to start aquiring parts soon. I'll post pics when I get her done.

I dont remember who had the Bacardi scheme......but that is fantastic.!!!

fallingleaf

My Feedback: (1)

I also have a thread (below) that may be of use to you, having recently been building one this year. I also used Tuwoods as a basis and it really helped alot!

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_73...tm.htm#7838990

Pro-E

My Feedback: (1)

I havent built a kit in 15 years..... I appreciate all the help I can get.

Thank you. I'm subscribing to yours as well.!!

Bryan

dale691

Hi all, what am I going to cover my ultimate with, I bought some covering from hobby city and I think it is a little on the thin side. Also do I completely cover it in white then put the other colours over the top, if so how do I do it without getting all the bubbles between the layers?

mono wing

dale

monokote is pretty thin.
try doing a search for "monokote" on the forms there is alot of good info on how to do.
here is a link that I found for making really tough designs.
Windex works great and an old credit card to remove the bubbles
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_66...tm.htm#6686800
If you have never done monokote it is not that hard .
You might want to get someone who has worked with it before to show you the ropes if you have any doubt

Good luck and happy flying

Bill

dale691

Maybe the stuff that I have isn't so bad then if Monokote is thin, I remember using Oracover years ago and it seemed pretty thick stuff compared to the stuff I have from Hobby City.

hrrcflyer

Hey Cub Man,

I sent you a PM.

jb86

My Feedback: (8)

i've used - monokote, ultracote, ultracote lightweight (transparent like saran wrap, REALLY thin), maybe others. they all have they're pro's/con's. ultra coate uses less heat, shrinks and handles a bit different. just know, what works w/one covering material maybe (will) work differently w/another. i have overlapped monokote and ultracote on the same a/c, but the Ultracote has a lower temp, be careful. monokote always seems to be the "standard". i have done layers of covering - my profile edge 540 i did the black windows w/monokote trim seal liquid. just have to work fast, and it is really bad solvent smell, i use a respirator. that realy does take skill, heck, doing a good quality job w/covering takes practice and skill no matter how many colors/layers you use. i always try first to design a covering scheme that has nice looks w/different colors in ways that i don't have to layer - bottom red, sides white, top a different color, ect. my edge 540 and extra; i did the wing white w/a red covering in the mid area on a diagonal - i kept the joint over wood sheeting, then i only needed a (light) 1/4" or so overlap, cut following the diagonal. sharp single edge razor blades, good layout (a dot w/a black sharp marker inside the cut line), 24" and 36" alum rules w/a wood handle screwed lengthwise to it for handle, ect - are what i use.
the extra - i used three colors on the horizontal; i followed the shape of the leading edge in front of the counter balance and overlapped the colors. i used red top and bottom and overlapped the proper 3/16" or so. the edge profile i did similar top and bottom. the wing i used ultracote transparent on bottom for weight reduction, then the stripe i think i used trim solvent, the light weight stuff shrinks quick. also, i used the transparent on the control surfaces for some more variation and lets light thru. you have to know the temps of the covering. if you get real intricate w/a covering, i.e.; layers (i have seen it done where colors are cut and splice into a single panel then applied on an open frame work, thats the proper way, not easy), then apply it and not shrink properly, wrinkles or melts - start over. the other concern is seasonal changes. the covering wrinkles when wood expands/contracts, ect.
my neice in the pictures was cute at 10, now 13 not so much into her uncles "toy" a/c.
jon

dale691

Thanks for that jon, if I use the windex method do you need to apply heat to it once the windex has evaporated?

jb86

My Feedback: (8)

i don't think so. i have never done that, but it is a common process. do a search in the threads or ask around in the threads that would cover monokote. one thing i learned - after an a/c is completed, all covering is done, take monokote trim solvent on a q-tip and slide it along all edges. it almost welds the seams. i have only done this on one a/c, but, will do from now on. takes a couple hours, but you can see that it is tight.
again, that stuff is real strong vapors, i don't do anything anymore w/o a respirator w/fresh cartridges.
jon

daveopam

My Feedback: (9)

After the windex method, I like to run the iron around the edges on a low setting. Some guys do the same with trim solvent. It may not be needed but is good insurance.

David

dale691

Anyone know a supplier for the aluminium undercarriage?

Cheers

daveopam

My Feedback: (9)

The ARF is a drop but they may still have some parts. It comes with the alum gear.

David

mono wing

Might I suggest a realy good carbon fiber L.G this guy makes top notch C.F and at a reasonable price.

Contact Ken McCaughin at Custom Composites ([email protected])

He made mine.

Or if you want a aluminium one try

http://www.aerofibertech.com/products.html

If I remember right this is where TUWOOD got his from.

Happy flying
Bill

dale691

I was going to get it from aerofibretech but when I went to buy what I thought was the U/C was actually wheel pants to suit an aluminium U/C

mono wing

Sorry about that I could have sworn that TU got his from there >
I will check the thread and make sure.

mono wing

I thought that I hadn't gone crazy it is in the 6th post of this thread[sm=confused.gif]
I guess they dont sell them anymore [:@]
Here is one from tower made by GB but it's not alum.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXHBP8&P=SM

fallingleaf

My Feedback: (1)

Fibreglassspecilalties is where I got mine. Great quality