Garthwood

hi Tony...............when I installed the rudder pull-pull I had some help from a friend of mine. He flies 43percents and larger and jet turbines. His pull pull system always cross each other. The wire has a coating. I've made that same question to him about rubbing, but assured me that it won't fray. It is more reliable as it won't cause any slack and it has instant response. The straight installation gives slack when one side is deflected/pulled. 90 lb. fishing line wire will work as as well. Du-bro has a good one too. I got some pull pull wire from this friend I'm talking about. It is quite strong and got a coating. Crossing the wire will give you direct clean exit and easier to calculate the point of exit. From my pictures it is hard to see the exit, that's how clean it is.

Garthwood.

Garthwood

rangerman......................I have a Saito .91 that I installed on a Waco, it only has about four flights. I have to keep an eye on it about what you said, spitting fuel. This summer I'll take the cowl off and see what happens. Thanks.
I did notice that my new Saito 1.20 has a longer carb flute, is that what you are talking about ? And what is causing this spray of fuel that you mentioned ?.
garthwood.

tuwood

I guess I'm so excited to get my Ultimate flying I just can't stop working on it. I'll probably get it done and have to stare at it for a couple months before the weather will cooporate and let me go fly.

I haven't used the ball links in the past, but I've read good things about them. I think the benefit is that they don't have any slop. I guess time will tell.

I went with the control horns on the elevator's for a few reason's:
1. they are easier to mount, just have to drill one hole and not worry about lining up 4 small screw holes
2. they have a lot of throw and are easy to adjust in small increments, just screw the connector up or down.
3. Probably the biggest reason I like them is becuase they seem to not make the pushrod's flex up and down as much as the standard control horns. On my SSE with standard horns, the pushrod's bow a lot at the extreme control's whereas the dubro's tend to keep the cable relatively level through the full range of motion.
I attached the pictures I took of the aileron's and you see that the angle of the pushrod doesn't change much. Hope that makes sense. [8D]
I don't know if they're better or not, that's just the thought process as to why I chose to use them.

The rudder horns are Sullivan "Left/Right" horns that come as a set: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXFV36&P=7

tuwood

Sorry to hear about your crash. I'm dreading the day I crash one of my kit planes. (I know it will happen)

I think the Saito 150 is about the same size block as the Saito 120 so it should fit OK. I'm not sure how much authority it would give over the 1.25 becuase of the extra weight. I guess there's only one way to find out.

I don't have personal experience starting the Saito's versus the others under 0C, but we had a winter fly last week and a couple guys had saito's that started right up and it was around -10C

Timthetoolman1

My Feedback: (6)

Yep, it's known as a velocity stack and I'm using the Bru-Line filter
http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...?ProdID=BRU202
and velocity stack for the 91
http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...odID=SAI50GK93
contrary to what Horizon help support said, it does fit the 125 although there is a lip on the carb on two sides that leaves a gap under the velocity stack mount. I will find some way of plugging this up though, maybe some black silicone.

Timthetoolman1

My Feedback: (6)

Ok Tony, just left my crack dealer, I mean hobby shop, and I got the Sullivan kevlar pull pull and Dubro ball links. I got the Dubro after market large servo arms for the rudder, what size are you using? While I was there another club member saw my engine with the Dubro quick filler on it and talked me out of it. He said a lot of guys at our field said they were getting clogged...I hate constant messing with stuff so I will go with a fuel dot and an extra clunck (MS?) in the fuel tank.

tuwood

hehe, i call my LHS the crack house too.

I bought the "Dubro Super Strength Futaba J Long" for the servo arms. They're certainly overkill for the recommended stock throws but necessary to push 45+ degree throws such as I have built in.

This is the first time I've tried the fueler adapter so I'll have to see how it works out. I don't think it would be too tough to retro in a fuel dot in the future if I had to so I'll give it a go.

Timthetoolman1

My Feedback: (6)

[quote]ORIGINAL: tuwood


Yah, it's the same size hole as the fuel dot. Now that I've fixed the 91 I might put the fuel filler back in the other plane because I thought it was leaking and come to find out it was the engine spray, just to see for myself. Tim

FlyingPilgrim

My Feedback: (26)

For those adding a velocity stack to their Saitos, the easiest way to seal them against the carb is to use a hardware store O-ring of the right diameter. To help allign it perfectly, the end of a standard x-acto hobby knife is the same diameter as the I.D. of the carb, and can be inserted while assembling the parts. There is a thread here on Saito velocity stacks, but I couldn't find it right off. Horizon raised the price on the stacks since they are selling so well!

Timthetoolman1

My Feedback: (6)

That's what I planned on doing since there is already a groove on the center of the openning so I figured the o-ring will stay in place pretty good.

tuwood

I went to finish up a few loose ends so I could do a final assembly/balance prior to covering phase (RCKen advice). I'm a little frustrated that my Stans cowl & LG aren't here yet (it's only been about 2 & 1/2 weeks though) because I need them to finish up the fuse.

I made a reinforcement wedge for the tailwheel assembly. I glued it on the inside of the fuse for the blind nuts to go into. I then attached the tailwheel assembly.

I then moved onto the interwing aileron pushrod. I bought heavy duty dubro control horns & cut them down to the innermost hole. I wish I could find something that hangs over the back with a hole on it because that would make the alignment perfect. I also realized that I only bought one pair of the horns so I have to make another trip to the LHS tomorrow for the top wing.

I hadn't drilled and mounted the interwing struts yet so I moved on to that and had a major oh $*@# moment. The directions prior to wing assembly told me to drill a 1/16" hole through the number 7 rib and sure enough the hardware that comes with the kit requres a 5/32" hole. Grrrr [:@]
It's not exaclty easy clamping wood on both sides of the ply (to avoid splintering) and trying to drill sideways next to the wing... So, for those that haven't started this kit yet, the hole needs to be at least 5/32" for the blind nut to fit. I spent probably 2 hours drilling & filing the holes to get my blind nuts in but I was successful with no collateral damage.

I then put everything together & after I spent another 30 minutes just staring at this beauty I figured I better check the wing incidence and alignments to make sure I don't need to tweak anything.
I'm not 100% sure how to check the 0 degree point of wing incedence but I put my meter on the rear stab & propped the plane up until it was at 0 degrees. I then moved my meter to the front wing and it looks like (correct me if I'm reading it wrong) I have -3/4 degree of incidence on the front wings & both wings are exactly the same (I think that's good) I attached pictures of the bottom & top wing readings.

I threw all the guts in and then did another balance and I'm quite a bit tail heavy but I don't have the cowl or LG on yet so I think I'll be pretty close, but even if I have to add weight it will be in the nose so I can proceed with covering.
I also laterally balanced it and with the battery pack laying on the left side I had to add 1 oz. of weight to the left wingtip's to get a lateral balance.

Just for giggles I threw it on the digital scale and my full up weight minus monokote, cowling, prop, spinner, & LG is 6.8 lbs. Darn, so much for my 4 lb. monster!! (just kidding)

captinjohn

Can you post a photo of the whole lazer level set-up from a few feet back? Thanks Capt,n

tuwood

Sure, i just threw the top wing back on real quick and took a picture to show you how i had it set up.

I initially placed it on the left side of the stab and adjusted the rear of the fuse up until it read 0. Then I put it on the left side of the bottom wing next to the fuse & took the first picture in the previous post. I then put it on the top wing just to the left side of center (to stay out of the V) and took the second picture in the previous post.

Timthetoolman1

My Feedback: (6)

Tony, did you factor in that the horizontal stabilizer is suppose to be +1 1/4 degrees so you should be reading -1 1/4 degrees on the bottom wing and top wing unless I've done something wrong. If I'm correct then you are +.5 degrees instead of -.75 degrees off, Tim.

Timthetoolman1

My Feedback: (6)

I didn't drill mine either but I have an assortment of 12" long drill bits Tim

tuwood

Last night I cut the slot for the voltmeter. I stole the placement idea from RCU member "driedjello" who fly's at my club. Nothing cooler than having a dash with lights on it.

My LHS finally got a shipment of the ball links in so I think I have all the hardware now.
I really can't finish up the fuse until I get the LG & cowl in, so I decided to move on to covering the wings.

tuwood

I couldn't really find any info on what was proper or not, so I'm calling it good.

The main think I was looking for was that the top and bottom wing were even and they are.

tuwood

I spent the better part of last night and today covering my lower wing. As you can tell I scrapped the idea of the black and yellow color. I saw an all black plane at my field and didn't like the look very much. I also remember what my teacher said back when I took an autobody class in High School. "When your new at this, use white because it covers up more flaws and when you get good, then you can use black"
I am going with a somewhat standard bipe covering scheme with most of the plagarism, uh I mean inspiration coming from the Ultrafly Ultimate.

This is my second time around with Monokote and holy cow is it a lot easier to use with a little experience under my belt. (Not to mention all of informative covering threads & RCU covering video's). I didn't have a single wrinkle in either wing that i had to airgun out. On my SSE, I had a ton of wrinkles that I had to gun/melt the heck out of. [>:]

I split the wing into four sections and covered each bottom half first and then each top half with white.
I then used windex & the trusty Amex to lay all of the trim.
I'm pretty happy with how it turned out & feel free to make fun of it if you wish.[sm=lol.gif]

Timthetoolman1

My Feedback: (6)

You know it's the simple designs that look really awesome in the air. I pictured that flying by and it looked cool!

If you look at the fuselage views on the plans there is one of the side, if you look back at the horizontal stabilizer, in the middle is written +1 1/4 If you just glance at it then it kind of fades into the grain on the picture.

campbec

Hi Tony et al,

Finally some pictures illustrating the mods that I have made to my Ultimate Bipe. Tony your progress is awesome you will finish way before I do. I changed the interplane struts to make them stiffer and more of an airfoil shape/easier to cover. I always glass the wing centres. Have fallen in love with Robart hinge points and like most have made hatches for dual aileron servos.

Cheers,

Colin

campbec

Underside of the top wing

Timthetoolman1

My Feedback: (6)

Collin, is that 2 oz cloth?

campbec

Hi Rangerman,

The cloth is the lightest I could buy .75gram from my local fiberglass products shop. I used the supplied nylon tape and gassed over the top with the light cloth and West epoxy and blotted any excess to minimise weight gain. I used gyprock/drywall spackle as the filler prior to glassing and have sanded and sanded put it away for a few days then sanded some more until as smooth as a baby's bottom.

I use the brush on the shop vacuum to remove all dust and then treat with el cheapo hombrand hair spray before covering the balsa. On the glassed areas I use thined SIG Stix it prior to covering.

Cheers,

Colin

tuwood

I almost went with the Robart hinges but the CA hinges were so easy on my last build that I decided to stick with them. Plus, what else would I use my Great Planes slot machine for.

I like what you've done with the Interplane struts. I am dreading covering them, I can't think of how the heck I'm going to do it. At first glance I think I'll iron it over the whole thing and then try to heatgun & stretch it down into the leading edges, but I have a feeling I'm going to waste some monokote on a few attempts.

I'm hoping that the fiber tape in the center will be strong enough for the type of flying I plan, but if it isn't I'll be sure and glass the next one I build.
For other CF ideas; one of the builders at my LHS told me that he cut the slots for the basswood spars deeper on the wing rib's & glued CF as a doubler to the entire length of the basswood for extra strength as well as fiberglassing the center. I wasn't brave enough to do that, but I thought it sounded like a good idea.

Off to work on the top wing now....

grandad1

My Feedback: (22)

Hi guys I am rebuilding A Ultimate that my son crashed and I was wounding if there is soppose too be any ( down trust in the fire wall?).I got the right trust but was wanting too know about the down.The front of the plane was broken up too bad too tell.I would like all the help I could get and Thanks.

Joe