Making a Cowl???
#1
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From: Washington,
DC
I want to build Cowl for my Pheaton II, since the one that Balsa USA sells for this model is horrible.
I have never done it before. I heard that a bottle of coke or any other bottle that fits would do. However, do I just make it fit and paint it? or do I have to reinforce it with something else?
Wouldn't the heat from the engine melt the plastic bottle?
I would apreciate any suggestions on this.
Thank you,
Paul
I have never done it before. I heard that a bottle of coke or any other bottle that fits would do. However, do I just make it fit and paint it? or do I have to reinforce it with something else?
Wouldn't the heat from the engine melt the plastic bottle?
I would apreciate any suggestions on this.
Thank you,
Paul
#2
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From: Birmingham, AL,
Paul,
Do a search on RCU for cowl suggestions. It can be built from several materials(balsa, foam, etc.). I've been trying to decide on a method for my Venture 60 and am still debating with myself.
Good luck,
Jason
Do a search on RCU for cowl suggestions. It can be built from several materials(balsa, foam, etc.). I've been trying to decide on a method for my Venture 60 and am still debating with myself.
Good luck,
Jason
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From: Indianapolis, IN
I feel sure I am not the first to do this.... I just have not seen one in my limited amount of time in this hobby. (2 years). This may be an alternative for someone wanting a cowl for their plane. This cowl is on a 4* 120 I am building. A Saito 150 is mounted sideways on a GP adjustable mount. The "top part of the cowl is a
carved block of balsa. I have a 4-40 threaded rod and nyloc nuts connecting the cheeks for support near the top front. (this rod is hidden by the top piece that "curves" over the top of it). I really didn't do this to save money..... I just was not having any luck finding a fiberglass cowl that would fit. (I did have a request for ideas on the forums, and found one.... but it had to be altered on the corners and I was afraid of working glass)
PS. I did not use the "tripler ply" on the removeable cheek).... lownslo...
carved block of balsa. I have a 4-40 threaded rod and nyloc nuts connecting the cheeks for support near the top front. (this rod is hidden by the top piece that "curves" over the top of it). I really didn't do this to save money..... I just was not having any luck finding a fiberglass cowl that would fit. (I did have a request for ideas on the forums, and found one.... but it had to be altered on the corners and I was afraid of working glass)
PS. I did not use the "tripler ply" on the removeable cheek).... lownslo...
#4
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I've heard of this and seen it work, but today's bottles do not have the solid plastic base of yesteryear. You can use a 2-liter base as long as you have good air flow for engine cooling and obviously plastic cooling. They will melt away if to close to the engine, and what a mess that turns out to be. OR you could use a 2-liter bottle as a form and wrap with 1/32 to 1/16 plywood and use fiberglass for the front of the cowling.
If you decide to go this route, get a fresh bottle of soda/pop, as they have high pressure, soak the plywood to give it some flex, usually place wood in a plastic ziplock bag with enough water to soak into wood. Let the wood soak for about 1-2 hours or until you can flex it. Take the wood out, let dry slightly, just until it turns a light/dryer color and bend around the 2-liter form (don't forget to wrap the bottle with Saran Warp, as this keeps the epoxy and CA from sitckin to the bottle), expoxy, and hold with rubber bands and/or tape...once you THINK it's ready to remove, shoot with some thin CA, let rest and carefully remove. Again, let set for 1-2 hours, and your ready to go. Maybe...This can be a very tedious and time consuming skill project, but well worth it.
P.S. I gave you the Readers Digest Condenced version of instructions. Please think thru, and plan ahead.
If you decide to go this route, get a fresh bottle of soda/pop, as they have high pressure, soak the plywood to give it some flex, usually place wood in a plastic ziplock bag with enough water to soak into wood. Let the wood soak for about 1-2 hours or until you can flex it. Take the wood out, let dry slightly, just until it turns a light/dryer color and bend around the 2-liter form (don't forget to wrap the bottle with Saran Warp, as this keeps the epoxy and CA from sitckin to the bottle), expoxy, and hold with rubber bands and/or tape...once you THINK it's ready to remove, shoot with some thin CA, let rest and carefully remove. Again, let set for 1-2 hours, and your ready to go. Maybe...This can be a very tedious and time consuming skill project, but well worth it.
P.S. I gave you the Readers Digest Condenced version of instructions. Please think thru, and plan ahead.
#5
Fiberglass specialties has both styles of cowl for the BUSA Phaeton 90, cheeks and no cheeks.
http://www.fiberglassspecialtiesinc.com/CATALOG.HTM
If you really want to make one, a plug can be made out of styrofoam. Then glass over it. But just buying one would be a lot simpler.
Edwin
http://www.fiberglassspecialtiesinc.com/CATALOG.HTM
If you really want to make one, a plug can be made out of styrofoam. Then glass over it. But just buying one would be a lot simpler.
Edwin




