Ok, this should be easy. I just build a Sig trainer, first plane. Which covering should I use? Weight should not matter. There can’t be that much difference between films to make a difference. Cost is not an issue. A couple of dollars won’t kill me.
What I want is easy. Very easy. What should I order? Thanks.

I have always had good results with Monokote. I have yet to try Ultracote, I have heard it is better, but more spendy. I think it's purely prefrence "opinion", they both are good, and easy to use.

If you want it to be very easy, buy an ARF.
Covering is not altogether simple. When I use film, I use Monocote I have had great results witht this product.
Others will swear by Ultracote ect, I cant speak from experience in regard to other films because Monocote was the first film I tried and I was satisfied with it, so, its all I use when I cover with film.
Get yourself an iron and heatgun and a LOT of some kind of blades and go for it. Your 1st job wont be perfect, it doesnt matter, youll soon be on to other planes and you will learn a great deal from your 1st experience, just follow the instructions that come with the covering, youll do fine.

TowerCote from Tower Hobbies is a lot less expensive. Covering takes a lot of practice, so don't be surprised if your first attempts are less than perfect. No sense wasting money at the same time. TowerCote is a low temp covering, so you might want to lean toward lighter colors. I learned the hard way that a black plane down here in Houston is prone to wrinkling in the heat of summer!

Ditto to what Flap said about getting an Iron AND a heat gun (a hairdryer won't work). And while they both have good and bad points, you will find Ultracote easier to work with that MK

Yep, I agree with MinnFLyer. I used alot of Monokote but recently I have been using Ultracote more and more. Goes around curves easier and seems to b emore pliable in general than Monokote. It also has a wider heat range which makes ideal for doing covering over covering trim schemes. Less chance for bubbles in the trim.

Also, with Ulrrtacote you can keep the heat gun on a bubble longer before it'll burn a hole. Trust me on that one, I'm talkin from experiance. I covereds my first plane in Ultracote, and after trying Monocote, I got a ton holes, oops. The seams don't get hiden as well, but it's a trainer. Jordan

I just built my trainer from a kit and covered it in Ultracote. It takes time and practice but I didn't find it too difficult. I was thinking I did an alright job but still had a few wrinkles. Then I saw my Uncle's Avistar ARF. The covering had bubbles all over the tail fins and some visible seems. Wrinkles all over the wing. All stuff that he could take an iron or heat gun to and fix but it made me feel alot better about my covering job. My advice would be to go for it with ultracote. If it doesn't come out right you can always rip it off and start over. (Had to do that a few times, lol)

Sorry, this may be off the subject of Plastic Film coverings, but could somebody please explain what I'm doing wrong when I dope tissue over a balsa sheeted surface and get lots of little wrinkles. I've tried 'stretching ' it over the surface while doping round the edges first then doping the rest to try and shrink it, but still those little wrinkles.
They all seem to 'lay' in the same direction ?
Thank you for your help.

The last time I doped tissue (25 years ago), I applied heat from a lamp on it as it dried. This helped it shrink up tight as a drum.

Thanks, I'll give it a try a little heat to accelerate the shringage.
It's just that I heard doped tissue over fully sheeted surfaces takes a primer well to prepare for a sprayed finish. (e.g. Matt 2 tone finish on scale military models)
Thanks again