For all you builders out there I have a few questions: ( I do apologize for the newbyness (is that even a word) questions, but I'm enjoying building even if it doesn't fly)

CA or wood glue?
I've been working on a 4*, and used thin and med CA on my wing halves, I didn't use much but I find it runs alot which cause some mayhem on my sheeting, since CA doesn't sand very well and had some build-up here and there. Should I stick with CA or is titebond a better solution. I know this has been debated many of times here, but man does CA run fast and you need a file to knock it down. (Reason I'm asking is I have kit #2 waiting patiently for me.)

Slight upward warp in LE:
Not sure how this happened, but both wing halves have a slight upward warp on the LE.. the TE is perfectly flat and square, do you think this is going to hurt anything?

Any other tips/tricks would be helpful also.
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datafry.......sorry you are having a hard time with your sheeting. I have always used thinned down tightbond, because its easy to clean the overflow from the balsa with water. After I get the sheeting in place I hold it with Blue 3M tape and phone books until it dries. It's almost impossible to sand CA without making a mess out of the sheeting. Good luck Bob

Well, those are some of the main reasons I switched from CA to wood glue. I use Elmer's Carpenter's glue now for all of my building and there is no way I would ever go back. I switched for most of the reasons you mentioned plus it's easier on my eyes, nose, and lungs. Also I have more working time with the wood glue to get the parts set correctly. For those that say they can build faster with CA I'll answer that with a little planning before hand I can build almost as fast (or maybe even faster in the long run) than those using CA. Since I've switched to wood glue I feel that my building skills have improved quite a bit.

Ken

RC Ken.....I too use Elmer's, or tightbond for all of my gluing. I keep a bottle of CA on hand and use it like I would use a "T-Pin". CA is
OK for what it's intended for, but it's probably the most misused adhesive ever invented. Lately I have begun using Elmer's,"Ultimate" glue. It is a superb adhesive that is virtually "Gorilla" glue. It requires only about 30 minutes clamp time, and it really expands to fill any voids or gaps in the fit. When it cures for 24 hours it's just like epoxy. It takes very little for coverage and that's another bonus. Sorta like "Epoxy" Paint. Bob

Bob Laine,
I should have added that I do keep thin CA around. I do use it for hardening thread cut in wood and for CA hinges. Plus, since I've started doing reviews for RCU I've had to start using CA for hinges and applications called for in the planes instructions. I try to build the review plane exactly like the instructions call for, so I use the adhesive they call for. But when I'm building I stick to Elmer's. I've used the Elmer's Ultimate a couple of times but haven't really played with it enough to feel comfortable using it yet.

Ken

Here is a handy glue chart http://members.aol.com/northrop61/gluechart.html

Joe

I use all of the above plus Gorilla glue where I really want a strong bond, just remember with Gorilla glue a little goes a long ways. Don't use more than you need and then clamp, tape or put phone books over it as Bob said. I only use Medium CA For wing ribs and in places where you need a quicker set up time. About the time issue, I love to build so I don't care how long it takes, just how good it looks and flys when I'm done. GOOD LUCK with #2.

Gibbs

Are the wings finished sheeted and have the warp in them ?if so the only way I know to get rid of it is to wet the sheeting & leading edge and block it down to a flat surface and let dry over night ,sometimes you may need to add more than a flat surface by adding a shim of some kind under the worst part of the warp then block it down .This will pull a reverse warp and when its dried and let go you hope it will be straight .Takes a little trial and error to do this.
All the time keep in mind to watch the trailing edge also .
Sometimes also if its not a bad warp 1/16 or less I will let it go as long as they both match.
As far as glue goes ,CA takes some caution when using ,myself thats all I do use unless its a sheeted foam wing.
But everyone will have there choice of everything ,use whatever you have the best luck with .
As far as sanding dried CA ,well thats fun but if its on the wing sheeting it can be done using a long bar and new 60-80grit paper.NOT USED PAPER . Be very careful just to run over the CA until its down to the rest of the wood.
If theres a gob of it stuck to it I suggest that you remove it before you try to sand anything.
Anyway hope this helps good luck building.

Hmm I didn't think about about wetting it down a tad and put some pressure on it. I'll give that a shot next time I'm out in the garage.

I'm glad to here I'm not the only one with a bad CA experience, and I don't mind the wait of good ol' yellow glue. For me just getting out in the garage a few hours a night to unwind after the kids go down for the night. Plus I'll have something to fly when I'm done.

My 2nd kit I have sitting on the shelf is the Top Flight .60 Spitfire MK Gold.

Cheers