Marino420TD

My Feedback: (1)

I'm building my first kit and I covered my plans with wax paper. After framing up the fuselage with thin CA, the was paper was stuck to most of the joints. Is there a way to prevent this? If not, what is the best way to remove it?

rajul

My Feedback: (58)

I use the GP plan protector. Fully transparent and peels off cleanly from CA.

BigSkyRCFlyer

My Feedback: (36)

I don't think they make Wax paper like they used to. LOL I've read a few posts from some of the vets that say it used to be better. Mine has always stuck to the wood from the CA. The best way I have found to get rid of it. is some sanding with fine grit sand paper, comes right off. Hope that helps.

flap

I used to have problems with this too. My problem seemed to be that I was using too much glue and it was ending up running down the paper and sticking all over the frame.
Now, when I can I just "stick" the frame together over the plans with just enough thin ca to hold everything together, and remove it from the paper, then go back and reinforce all the joints while holding the work, this way you can hold at any angle necessary to end up with the glue where you want it instead of it all running straight down.
Be carefull, now that your work is not attached to the nice straight building board, any lumber which was warped to begin with will want to go back to its origonal shape, youll need to set it back on the plan after removing it and be sure everythings still flat and straight, keep this in mind and youll be OK.
I find it easier to do it this way than to remove thick ca ect. from balsa.

TerrellFlyer

I do as rajul, and use Plans Protctor covering, problem is you are using to much glue,might make covering a little less smooth,only way I know to remove the glue and paper is by sanding.

CHOCOFAN

Hey ! Marino got the ansewr for ya ! lay down your wax paper next find some baby oil & cotton just a dab of baby oil on the cotton spread it on the wax paper lightly & you can pin down your stab or fin and the CA it won't stick TO the wood nor the balsa suck up the oil remember not to much now or you'll have a mess.

rajul

My Feedback: (58)

If the balsa absorbs some oil, the monokote may not stick well later............

firefighter56

I used wax paper and had the same trouble. I started using plain old saran wrap and it does not stick. It does leave a wrinkle finish if too much glue runs out. I like better and its cheap.

nav8tor

I also had this problem with my first kit. I still use wax paper but I now use alot less glue just as flap described. I apply just enough to tack the joint and after removing the part from the board I apply more to all sides of the joint. If you use too much CA and in flows out the bottom of the joint, even if it doesn't stick to the wax paper or plan protector, it still will create a hard spot that will be difficult to sand off later. Another tip is to use the glue tips (pun intended) that you can get from tower hobbies or your LHS. They make it much easier to control the amount of CA that flows out of the bottle.

Flypaper 2

I keep my Monocoat backing for such purposes.

Extra300s7

My Feedback: (36)

I'm with firefighter56, I've used saran wrap for years and works great!

MinnFlyer

My Feedback: (4)

Do like Flap said... Use less glue, then remove from plans and go over the joints with Medium CA.

Sewerdude

My Feedback: (20)

I keep my Monocoat backing for such purposes.

Great idea!

jettstarblue

The best way to keep it from sticking is - don't use it. It's NOT as good as it used to be, and thin CA sticks about as bad as if it were regular paper.
I use the old backer from my Monocote-the best use for Monocote! :devious:

Jetts

RCKen

My Feedback: (9)

Another vote for the backing off of Monokote.

CHOCOFAN

RAJUL! THATS WHY I SAID JUST USE A DAB OF THA BABY OIL ON THE WAX PAPER,I DIDN'T MEAN LIKE PUT A LOT ON THE WAX PAPER JUST ENOUGH TO COVER THE WAX PAPER TRY IT & YOU'LL SEE THAT THE BALSA DOES'NT ABSORB IT TRUST ME. JUST A LITTLE NOT A WHOLE LOT JUST A LITTLE & IF YOU DO'NT TRUST WHAT I'M SAYING TRY IT ON A SCRP PIECE OF BALSA THEN MONOCOTE IT YOU'LL SEE.

rajul

My Feedback: (58)

Hey Choco, I trust ya ! I trust ya ! Why, I am already using baby wipes to clean my planes, baby socks for my sealing iron, and they work great ! I'm sure baby oil works fine too for this application as what you say. We really pamper out planes with baby products don't we ? LOL !

Bison

My Feedback: (1)

I started out covering my plans with wax paper and had the same problems. I've switched to using 6 ml polyethylene sheeting. CA and other glues won't stick to it. Also, the thicker 6 ml sheeting seals well around the building pins and prevents even thin CA from getting through to your plans. I've built my last 3 planes using polyethylene to cover my plans. This stuff is readily available at Lowe's or Home Depot and one roll is enough to build a fleet of planes. Try it. You'll like it.

rajul

My Feedback: (58)

Good input bison. I'll give PE a try. Is 6 mil the std thickness?Might be cheaper/better than GP plan protector

Azcat59

Maybe our CA glues are getting better? Or maybe the wax paper is not as good. Wax paper sticks to the wood for me, and I use one of the Perma-Grit sanding bars to get rid of it. I bought the Gt. Planes plan protector, and my CA stuck it too. A generic brand of plastic wrap was no better. Monokote backing does seem to work well.

jettstarblue

rajul,

The plastic is 3 mil standard, but the 6mil is better. It is also WAY cheaper then the plans protector.

Jetts

rajul

My Feedback: (58)

It's on my shopping list now........

jettstarblue

No problem.

Jetts

JetAwithPrist

I like monokote backing too, but the problem is- i dont like peeling off the backing until after cutting it to shape, so your backing is only as big as the pieces you cut out, which can screw you when building progressively bigger planes

I gotta try the 6 mil sheeting though that sounds good

jcflysrc

My Feedback: (50)

I used aluminum foil once in a pinch and as long as you "peel" it from the balsa carefully, it works great! And should you end up with a little stuck, it is much easier to remove.