stupid mistake - wing warp
#1
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From: Meridian, ID
I just checked my incidence meter on my topflite fw190 d9, and have found a warp!!! AHHHHHHHHHHH!
I'm not a beginning builder and think my wing slightly popped out of its cradle overnight when building the washout.
From about 3" from the center, my right wing incidence is at +1 (correct for the kit), BUT the left wing is at +2 (one full degree off).
However, it gradually gets better out to the tip where it zeros out and matches the right wing tip...
Is this a significant amount of warp? Should I go through the hassle of melting my epoxied center strip fiberglass, remove the bottom sheeting of the left wing and pin it down again?
Or do you think I can trim this out with the ailerons in flight?
Thoughts??????
Thanks in advance,
Craig
I'm not a beginning builder and think my wing slightly popped out of its cradle overnight when building the washout.
From about 3" from the center, my right wing incidence is at +1 (correct for the kit), BUT the left wing is at +2 (one full degree off).
However, it gradually gets better out to the tip where it zeros out and matches the right wing tip...
Is this a significant amount of warp? Should I go through the hassle of melting my epoxied center strip fiberglass, remove the bottom sheeting of the left wing and pin it down again?
Or do you think I can trim this out with the ailerons in flight?
Thoughts??????
Thanks in advance,
Craig
#2
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From: gone,
Most planes you can trim it out. It'll never be a precision 'Pattern" performer with the warp... the trim needed will change with airspeed.
The stall characteristics will show the arp... it'll drop the wing with the higher incidence first. (the aileron trim won't overcome that)
So... its aqustion of how well the plane needs to perform. If its going to be a heavy, detailed model... you probably should get the warp out. If its going to be a light sport model to buzz the local airfield... It'll fly.
The heavier the plane... the less room for error in the wings. A heavy model with a minor warp can be a beast to fly.
It might be less labor to... buy a new wing core set, and build a second wing. Fixing a warp on a sheeted foam core is a nightmare sometimes... How'd you glue the sheet to the foam?
(that is a foam core isn't it? You mention a cradle in the constrution... the "shucks" of the core?)
The stall characteristics will show the arp... it'll drop the wing with the higher incidence first. (the aileron trim won't overcome that)
So... its aqustion of how well the plane needs to perform. If its going to be a heavy, detailed model... you probably should get the warp out. If its going to be a light sport model to buzz the local airfield... It'll fly.
The heavier the plane... the less room for error in the wings. A heavy model with a minor warp can be a beast to fly.
It might be less labor to... buy a new wing core set, and build a second wing. Fixing a warp on a sheeted foam core is a nightmare sometimes... How'd you glue the sheet to the foam?
(that is a foam core isn't it? You mention a cradle in the constrution... the "shucks" of the core?)
#3
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OK, you state 3" from center the left wing incidence is at +2 degrees but as you move away from center it tapers back to +1 degree. That shouldn't be a problem and you should be able to trim it off with aileron throw. Here's what I'd do....
Fly it like it is, being conscious of the incidence factor. Does it want to roll left at neutral aileron? If so, find the ‘happy’ medium, land and check the amount of throw on the left wing. Now, remove your clevis, turn in until the radio is back to neutral and re-attach. This should help to counter the incidence of +2 degrees.
Fly again, trimming accordingly.
Who knows, the aforementioned problem might not cause you any headaches!!!
Thoughts gang?
Fly it like it is, being conscious of the incidence factor. Does it want to roll left at neutral aileron? If so, find the ‘happy’ medium, land and check the amount of throw on the left wing. Now, remove your clevis, turn in until the radio is back to neutral and re-attach. This should help to counter the incidence of +2 degrees.
Fly again, trimming accordingly.
Who knows, the aforementioned problem might not cause you any headaches!!!
Thoughts gang?
#4
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From: Meridian, ID
Thanks for the quick response guys!
The wing of the Top Flite kit is built up balsa, not foam core. Top Flite uses these cradles to set the wing into and then "warp" in the washout before putting on the bottom sheeting.
It seems the tip cradles held just fine, but the left wing seemed to have moved 1 degree total. You can't tell from looking at it and I spent about 3 hours checking every square inch of that wing and it starts at the center and gets better as it goes out towards the tip...
I'm looking right now at possibly purchasing foam wings from a foam cutting company as a backup plan... Anybody know of a company who makes foam wings for this bird?
Schwoop...
The wing of the Top Flite kit is built up balsa, not foam core. Top Flite uses these cradles to set the wing into and then "warp" in the washout before putting on the bottom sheeting.
It seems the tip cradles held just fine, but the left wing seemed to have moved 1 degree total. You can't tell from looking at it and I spent about 3 hours checking every square inch of that wing and it starts at the center and gets better as it goes out towards the tip...
I'm looking right now at possibly purchasing foam wings from a foam cutting company as a backup plan... Anybody know of a company who makes foam wings for this bird?
Schwoop...
#5
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From: Sterling , CO
Spray sheeting on warped wing with windex litely and set back on forms let dry do no soak where it goes through. Will also work on foam wing. Worth a try !!



