rc_wings

Hi Rick,

Yeah, I too was surprised with the CapCam results. Unfortunately the zoom feature does not function when in video mode. It's a "still" camera with a video capabilities so limited in some respects. Got the little Olympus recently as a gift for 25 year milestone from the company I work for, so thought I would put it to good use with its' compact size.

As for the Seagull Space Walker, not mine, but I do get to fly it like it is!!! One of the newer members I have known for many years lets me have my way with it pretty much each time he brings it out. It is allot of fun and he has a DLE 20 in it which hauls it around with authority.

Thanks for the prop results...this is great! Will save me time not having to experiment with several choices to get the right match. Chart looks fine!!

Thanks again!!!

Rv7garage

My Feedback: (10)

That was a really nice landing, there

rc_wings

Thanks RV!!!

rc_wings

Thanks EF...will consider moving to a 12x6.

rc_wings

Well had the little SMP out for a rip last night with an 11x6 APC. Was not entirely happy with it. Little slower, but vertical was not as good surprisingly. Was having some carb issues, so will try again as have not given up completely on the 11x6 and will try a 12x6 Zinger as per Rick's specs. Have a feeling a 12x5 might be worth a try as well. Have to remove the cowl to tighten up the carb....this is a pain as have to loosen the pitts and drop it down first, then remove the cowl, then place cowl back on and painfully try to bolt on pitts muffler. Am going to go broke on buying manifold gaskets, or will be a full time job making them at the rate I am going through them. So decided to do a little surgery on the SMP cowl to allow it to be removed without removal of the pitts muffler. Looks like the SMP is a little "high maintenance" as any pretty gal is, so this should eliminate some frustration and allow easy access to engine at the field if required. Shame as really liked the closed in look....but once done, no one will really notice except ME! LOL.

RICKSTUBBZ

I was rummaging through some old photos and found this one of my Smith along side a Great Planes Super Decathlon that I helped my son build. Even though this shot is in my gallery I don't think I ever posted it in this thread.....Picture was taken November of 2009.

rica1

My Feedback: (32)

Do you still have both planes? What eng in the SMP?

RICKSTUBBZ

RICA1

My "Smith" is retired and the Super Decathlon is on injured reserves.

During the years that my “Smith� was in action, it had three different engines bolted on it. K&B 40 – OS 45 FSR (even had a pipe for a while) and as seen in the picture of post 756, the “Smith� and the Super Decathlon have Super Tigre 51’s with custom built mufflers.

Nauset

Hello there,
Could someone let me know what the balance point is for the Sig Smith Mini. The instruction manual references the plans but I don't have them any more.

rc_wings

It will be back about 3/16" or 0.5 cm from the lower wing front mounting plate as per the plans.

KaP2011

My Feedback: (17)

The CG is 4 3/8" back from the LE at the root on the top wing.
(info obtained from the Sig website under video's and manuals)

Rv7garage

My Feedback: (10)

Conveniently, the rear nylon bolts that attach the top wing to the cabane struts are exactly 4 3/8" back from the leading edge... a perfect point for finger balancing!

KaP2011

My Feedback: (17)

Hello all. I'm about to start my SMP build, this will be my second SMP since I started flying in 1991. The first one was beyond my flying skills at the time and was soon destroyed. It was such a beautifull plane that I never forgot it.
My question to everyone who have flown the SMP is what engine should I use? I love 4 strokes and I'm leaning toward the OS .56FS-a. I have a tendancy to overpower planes and I actualy thought of putting an OS .70FS in it. (Which I already have.) I plan on covering with Coverite fabric and think it may come out on the heavy side.

I have been going over the instruction manual and plans and I think I know why the first one I had was unflyable, I think the CG was wrong, I remember it was like trying to fly a porpoise.

rc_wings

I noticed that too and how I initially did my balance tests! Eventually used a CG tool, but came to the same conclusion that using the bolt heads and fingers provided sufficient accuracy.

Rv7garage

My Feedback: (10)

I have a Saito FA-62 in my Miniplane, and it's perfect. Not overpowered, just a real good match for the plane.

rc_wings

I have a Supertigre .51 two stroke in mine and find it perfect for power. A bipe like this does beg for that four stroke sound though. Word of advice, keep it light and don't go crazy on overpowering it as it will likely just increase weight. It will never be a 3D bird, so fly it like it was intended and it will provide plenty of bipe flying fun!!!

Cheers and good luck with the second one. It is a nice little flyer.

KaP2011

My Feedback: (17)

Thanks for the advice Marko. I've got one of the older Italian made Super Tigre G51's still nib and a G61 as well, but as you said, the 4 stroke sound is hard to beat.

As for flying 3D, my thumbs can not be trained to make an airplane hover. Besides, thats what helicopters are for.

icegs

Mine has a 46AX, and that is more power than it needs. It has no problem accelerating straight up, but still flies nicely.

KaP2011

My Feedback: (17)

I think I've settled on a Saito .56 that I had forgotten I had. I don't want to cut away any more of the cowl than I have to and the Saito is a good, reliable little engine that I've had for awhile.

KaP2011

My Feedback: (17)

I just read Minnflyers article on soldering and apparently I already have what I need to solder silver, I just need to find the flux for it.

senrak

Three #1 rules in soldering. Plenty of clean. Plenty of heat. Plenty of flux.


Latex and all other house paint will not stand up to glow fuel. It must be top coated with a clear ureathane or epoxy of some type. I have used minwax polyureathane spray with some sucsess.


In my experience, a perfect match to covering is all but impossible.

KaP2011

My Feedback: (17)

Tried soldering again. Still can't get it right. I cleaned the parts with sandpaper, wiped in down with acetone, used flux, (hercules soldering paste, the only kind I have). Still when I heat the parts with the torch, the solder melts and runs right thru the wire and drips off. I think the torch is the problem, maybe I'm getting it too hot too fast.

Quikturn

My Feedback: (12)

You're not getting the parts hot enough to take the solder.

I use rubbing alcohol instead of acetone. Not sure if that makes a difference.

senrak

does any stick to the wire?

KaP2011

My Feedback: (17)

Yes, some did stick to the wire. Maybe Quikturn is correct, I'm not getting it hot enough. I'm worried that if I get it too hot, it'll ruin the wire by removing the temper.