When to use CA vs Epoxy?
#1
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From: Chicago, IL
I am getting ready to build my first larger scale model (Palmers C130 with 87"ws). On my previous models I've always used CA for gluing. The instructions for the C130 say "glue" some times and "Epoxy" at others. Is there any compelling reasons to use one versus the other?
Thanks for all of your help!
Patrick
Thanks for all of your help!
Patrick
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From: Catoosa,
OK
I always use epoxy or aliphatic resin, (carpenter's wood glue),
when extra strength is required such as firewalls and landing
gear blocks. I make sure to use a epoxy with a longer setting
time, like 30-minute, to allow the epoxy to wick into the wood.
I'm kinda old-school when it comes to glues and I'm still not con-
vinced that CA's are the way to go. I'll be starting a Sig Somethin'
Extra soon and will go with mostly all CA glue except those areas
mentioned above. CA is lighter than wood glue and it has it's
place in building.
when extra strength is required such as firewalls and landing
gear blocks. I make sure to use a epoxy with a longer setting
time, like 30-minute, to allow the epoxy to wick into the wood.
I'm kinda old-school when it comes to glues and I'm still not con-
vinced that CA's are the way to go. I'll be starting a Sig Somethin'
Extra soon and will go with mostly all CA glue except those areas
mentioned above. CA is lighter than wood glue and it has it's
place in building.
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From: Willimantic,
CT
I too am from the old (way old school) and always used other glues like (ambroid if you remember that one) but now I have tried the ca and I'm sold,except those areas yu have mentioned.I have seen the ca hold up under some amazing feats and it is all I use now.sure does save some building time and pinning and clamping
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From: St Louis, MO
When the plans call for epoxy, they are telling you it is a very critical joint. Epoxy is just about guaranteed to hold but it can get heavy if you use too much.
If you make close fitting joints in the wood, then carpenters or Ca will be adequate and has the advantage of being lighter and sandable (except for Ca).
I like the yellow Elmers. As it dries half the weight disappears due to the water evaporation. That's not true of epoxy which weighs the same after it dries.
Tom
If you make close fitting joints in the wood, then carpenters or Ca will be adequate and has the advantage of being lighter and sandable (except for Ca).
I like the yellow Elmers. As it dries half the weight disappears due to the water evaporation. That's not true of epoxy which weighs the same after it dries.
Tom
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From: Smyrna,
TN
I had never used the wood glue up until recently. I'm hooked on the stuff now. The CA's were great, but the carpenter's glue forces me to move a little bit slower and get every piece fitting just right. Plus if you make a mistake you have a lot more time to catch it and get the parts apart.
Terry Fulwider
Nashville, TN
Terry Fulwider
Nashville, TN
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From: Phoenix AZ
I keep 6 min and 30 min Epoxy on hand. Plus thin CA and Thick CA. Use the CA for frame and wing work. Thick Ca to fill gaps. Thin CA for sheeting and wing Ribs.
You must also have CA Acellerator and CA Debonder (becareful with Debonder this stuff will desolve nylon jackets. ) The Acell is necessary for Thick Ca to set quick, also can help thin ca to bond to hardwoods.
Use the epoxies for shock surfaces like firewalls, wing joints, landing gear blocks. I use the 30 epoxy for tail fin mounts it gives plenty of time to check alighnments. Use epoxy for hinges. Ca will not hold plastic and pin them with a wood tooth pick. Keep alcohol handy in case Epoxy gets in the hinge.
Also, use 90% alcohol to thin epxoy. I thin it and coat the firewall for a perfect fuel proof coat. Plus I use a thin mix to coat fiberglass taped wing joints. Been doing this for 20 years and works great. Water glues are a no no with balsa. It causes major warps.
You must also have CA Acellerator and CA Debonder (becareful with Debonder this stuff will desolve nylon jackets. ) The Acell is necessary for Thick Ca to set quick, also can help thin ca to bond to hardwoods.
Use the epoxies for shock surfaces like firewalls, wing joints, landing gear blocks. I use the 30 epoxy for tail fin mounts it gives plenty of time to check alighnments. Use epoxy for hinges. Ca will not hold plastic and pin them with a wood tooth pick. Keep alcohol handy in case Epoxy gets in the hinge.
Also, use 90% alcohol to thin epxoy. I thin it and coat the firewall for a perfect fuel proof coat. Plus I use a thin mix to coat fiberglass taped wing joints. Been doing this for 20 years and works great. Water glues are a no no with balsa. It causes major warps.
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From: Water Valley,
MS
I have found that usually when a kit says epoxy it's for plywood. Other than areas where slow setting is favored such as sheeting.
I've also found that for some reason plywood gets really friggin hot when you put CA on it. Although after it dries it holds strong I just can't get over how hot the wood gets. Kinda makes me a little nervous. I'm pretty much a thin CA, and 15 minute epoxy person. I always poke pin holes in between pieces to be joined with epoxy, and if I need to do any little fill's I just break out my little medicine bottle with sawdust in it. Fill the gap with sawdust, and hit it with CA. It dries fast, and hard. Also if I'm looking for a really lightweight strong bond I use a little baking soda with CA. Must be careful though as it's darn near impossible to sand, and hard as concrete. I did this and tried sanding it, and it was literally wearing the grit off the sand paper while making little to no progress on the piece.
I've also found that for some reason plywood gets really friggin hot when you put CA on it. Although after it dries it holds strong I just can't get over how hot the wood gets. Kinda makes me a little nervous. I'm pretty much a thin CA, and 15 minute epoxy person. I always poke pin holes in between pieces to be joined with epoxy, and if I need to do any little fill's I just break out my little medicine bottle with sawdust in it. Fill the gap with sawdust, and hit it with CA. It dries fast, and hard. Also if I'm looking for a really lightweight strong bond I use a little baking soda with CA. Must be careful though as it's darn near impossible to sand, and hard as concrete. I did this and tried sanding it, and it was literally wearing the grit off the sand paper while making little to no progress on the piece.
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From: Willimantic,
CT
if you need a good filler and a hard one at that use the sawdust with the yellow carpenter glue. mix into a lite paste and fill,it also adds strength to the joint.



