AK Models SU27 Build with Mods
#1
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I have this posted elsewhere and thought I would share it with everyone here on RCU.
This kit is laser-cut and it looks really nice.
The below images are of the STAB and the Fins
This kit is laser-cut and it looks really nice.
The below images are of the STAB and the Fins
#2
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From: Dublin,
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I did not take detailed pictures up to this point due to my camera being broke.
I made a modification to the rear wheel wells ( 2nd pic) because my gear was binding in the original configuration. I did the front wheel well (1st pic) the same way.
I made a modification to the rear wheel wells ( 2nd pic) because my gear was binding in the original configuration. I did the front wheel well (1st pic) the same way.
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I wanted to do something special with this plane and I decided to install a air brake on the top of the plane just like the real one. I ironed some monokote over the area that I was planning to install the brake. Then I fiberglassed the area with 2oz cloth. After the glass dried I sanded it then drew out my brake using a marker. I popped off the fiberglass piece and cut out the brake. I then put the brake back on top of the Fuse and traced out my cutting area then I cut out the opening for the brake.
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I decided use a servo to extend and retract the brake. The way I had done this was to make two aluminum slides. Basically an L shape piece of Aluminum, cut a slice down the middle big enough to accept a 440 rod, and cut holes on the other side so that epoxy will hold it onto the brake. An extended servo arm made from Aluminum will be used to raise and lower the brake. I had to center the servo in the plane to make sure it would not bind the brake as it was in movement.
The brake is made of 1/8 ply with balsa top with a piece of ply near the front of the brake so that the hinge will have something to hold onto.
The brake is made of 1/8 ply with balsa top with a piece of ply near the front of the brake so that the hinge will have something to hold onto.
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After working out the Air Brake, I continued work on the plane per plans except for the location of the retract mechanism and receiver location. Instead of putting both of these at the rear of the plane I relocated them further up which freed up room and took a little more weight off the rear. I installed the battery under the nose gear. The plans also used plastic pieces to cover the rear hatches and instead of that I used wood. I had some 1/2"X4" balsa on hand measured, and glued it in place then shaped it to the rest of the plane.
In the 4th picture I had to cover the holes with 1/16" balsa because I am going to fiberglass this plane.
The last picture is the Air Brake which needs to be a little more sanded to shape.
In the 4th picture I had to cover the holes with 1/16" balsa because I am going to fiberglass this plane.
The last picture is the Air Brake which needs to be a little more sanded to shape.
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From: SwindonWilts, UNITED KINGDOM
Now that's an interesting looking model[8D]
what are the basic specs - you know span, length, weight, power etc.?
cheers
Rick
what are the basic specs - you know span, length, weight, power etc.?
cheers
Rick
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From: Whitehorse,
YT, CANADA
I hope you take the time and read this thread.
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_21...tm.htm#2186098
Covered in the thread are about 7 or 8 builds with mods but what is most important are the test flight and the problems found with areas that I hope you take to heart ...I would not like to see such hard work have a mishap on the first flight.
Just my 2 cents worth
cheers
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_21...tm.htm#2186098
Covered in the thread are about 7 or 8 builds with mods but what is most important are the test flight and the problems found with areas that I hope you take to heart ...I would not like to see such hard work have a mishap on the first flight.
Just my 2 cents worth
cheers
#10
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From: Dublin,
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Weight= Not yet known
WS= 56 1/2"
L=61 1/2"
P= .91
I have skimmed through the thread (a lot to read) and I have decided to add 1 1/2" to the elevator just to add a little more up in it just in case. I will read it more in depth in a little while. The Air Brake of course is to slow it down on the runway and to be used in flight. Here is the progress that was made today. I made the tail boom, exhaust stacks, and shaped the cowl. Then I cut the engine compartment out.

WS= 56 1/2"
L=61 1/2"
P= .91
I have skimmed through the thread (a lot to read) and I have decided to add 1 1/2" to the elevator just to add a little more up in it just in case. I will read it more in depth in a little while. The Air Brake of course is to slow it down on the runway and to be used in flight. Here is the progress that was made today. I made the tail boom, exhaust stacks, and shaped the cowl. Then I cut the engine compartment out.

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From: Dublin,
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I have done a lot of work on this project since last I posted. The tail boom and exhaust are attached. The top and bottom of the fuse is totally fiberglassed although you cannot really tell it. The top has the finished coat on it so now all I have to do is sand it and I have yet to do the bottom. Hopefully I can get it done tommorrow. I have also started on the wings. I do not plan to do anything special to these so it is pretty straight forward.
#13

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Beautiful work, and the air brake looks great. I built Alexander's Mig 29 and it went together very well. For s amall independant manufacturer AK Models puts out some good planes, and the included DVD was very helpful. What are you going to use for power? uys have had good luck with the Jet 90 Ls
can't wait to see the progress and the test flights. Good work
Anthony
can't wait to see the progress and the test flights. Good work
Anthony
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Thanks for the compliment. Alex does make very good kits and I cannot wait till his F-16 rolls out. I plan to use a O.S. .91 per his specs. I have never owned a Jet brand engine but from what I have read about them I think I may have made a mistake buying an O.S. I have always had good luck with O.S. even though they are a little more expensive. I may end getting the Mig-29 and doing the same thing to it if this one works out ok. I have not had a chance to get any more work done on it for the past few days due to work and other spur of the moment problems. This weekend I have 3 days off and I plan to have the plane 98% complete.
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Wings are done! I am working on the control surfaces right now and hopefully will be done with them Monday. I had an 3/32 inch gap between the fuse and the right wing and I added some balsa onto the wing to finish out the gap.
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From: Dublin,
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Ok I just finished painting all of the black areas. I still need to paint the red stars, a few other insignia stuff, and touch up a few areas. I also need to install the underside fins and paint the area for the canopy to fit over.
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The finish line. It is always satisfying to finish a kit and a relief because I needed to get it done before our mall show.
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I still have to balance it out but I do not think it will be that out of balance. I still have to get a prop and a different spinner for it first.
#23

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From: Clarkston, MI
Nice job! I am impressed with the length of time, or the lack of....to build your Flanker. Can you give us a little more on your finish? Glass cloth weight used. Epoxy resin or poly....paint.
Best of luck on your maiden.
steelie
Best of luck on your maiden.
steelie
#24
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I used 2oz cloth on the leading edges of the wing, fins, and all around the nose to protect it from dings and other hangar rash type stuff. For the 2oz cloth I used zpoxy. Before I did anything else I sprayed some polyurethane all over the plane for a protective coat to protect against warping for the next process. On the finish I used 3/4oz fiberglass and the Polycrylic/Talcum method for the fiberglass weave. The polycrylic is water based so it will soak into the wood and make it expand a little that is what the polyurethane is for. After filling in the weave and sanding it down to a nice finish, I sprayed camoflage grey all over the plane for a base coat. Oh BTW I used model Master paints for all of this. Then I used Flanker blue/grey and Greyviolet 47 for the camo scheme. After that I used insignia red for the stars, Flat black for the engines and nose, and let that all dry for 1 day. Then I sprayed 2 coats of semigloss polyurethane all over the plane once more for a gloss finish as well as a protective one. Let this dry for at least two days before doing anything else to the plane. If you start putting in the engine and other equipment, you will most likely mess up the finish becasue the polyurethane has not fully cured even though it says fast drying. Be careful not to spill nitro on it though because it will eat the finish right off. Exhaust oil is fine but not straight nitro to the finish. As for the time frame, this plane was the easiest to build so far. The formers are 1/4" thick balsa that do not break while building and the wings are small enough that it only took a week to get them together. The skin for the plane is precut so no guess work there. Over all it was an easy build. The thing that took the longest was the airbrake. Mainly because I had to figure out what I was going to do and I hated to cut into the top of it.
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From: Pointe Claire,
QC, CANADA
Thnaks for the thread Idelbert.
I've just started this for a freind / club-mate, and it looks soooo sweet, that I bought the Mig 29 for myself!! The quality wood, well thougth out pieces /construction, and sweet lazer cutting.
My kit was missing sheets #7-19. But I apparenly got 2x the wing parts. I've talked to Alex, and the parts are on their way.
I've just started this for a freind / club-mate, and it looks soooo sweet, that I bought the Mig 29 for myself!! The quality wood, well thougth out pieces /construction, and sweet lazer cutting.
My kit was missing sheets #7-19. But I apparenly got 2x the wing parts. I've talked to Alex, and the parts are on their way.


