That Dremel workstation looks like a great idea for making accurate small holes.
When working with balsa or foam you may well get away with turning a drill bit by hand.

I have a dremel tool and regularly make use of it. However, I didn't always have one and got on without one for quite a while! When starting out, a person might be able to get by without, by finding someone who does have one they can borrow (If your a member of a club, it is highly likely someone in the club will have one that can be borrowed). This goes for almost all the expensive equipment that has been suggested here! All of the suggestions I've seen recommended here is great equipment to have. I got to thinking about what is really needed to build that first kit. Then, after having built a few kits and determining building is an aspect of the hobby that is really enjoyed, by al means go out and by the stuff you want.

It's always NEED vs WANT in life!

Most men don't know the meaning of "tool many tools". I've got some tools I would probally never use in three life times, but still these are tools a guy feels he just has to have! Men are just born with an instinct to build things with tools!

You are correct you can’t have too many, tools, plans, guns, or too much money. Fore sum reason I can only get my girlfriend to agree on the last one, go figure.

Hi
One thing that i often wondered when building is what glue and were to use it ?
I have only built two planes, both scrach built (limbo dancer and a free plan model of something that looked like a super sportster)
and the only glues that i used was CA and 30 min epoxy .
I have pva glue but was never sure were to use it
But the buzz that i got when i first flew the models that i had build was amazing.
BELFAST FLYER

BELFAST FLYER-

Seems to me that some modelers can get really caught up in one aspect of the hobby, such as getting really intricate with their choice of glues for each particular application (GLUE SNOBS!). As for me, unless I'm building an expert-class, once-in-a-lifetime model, CA and 30-minute epoxy are just fine. That combination is all I ever use, and all my models come in at- or under-weight, and are very sturdy.

I will say this, I wouldn't be averse to trying polyurethane glues (Gorilla Glue, etc.) for certain gap-filling applications.

Hi flycfii
The choice of glue for a particlar job always left me in a bit of a dilemma..
but its good to hear that i am not the only one that mainly uses CA and epoxy.
by the way flycfii I’ve been following your build thread on the smith mini plane it looking great not long before shes
up in the air .. all the best Gerry ..Belfast flyer

Check out Titebond II. I use CA where parts have to be clamped and aligned (wing ribs, laterons, bulkheads, etc.), 30 or 45 minute epoxy where it needs great strength and thinned as fuel proofing, but Titebond II is a pleasure to use where pinning parts to a flat board or laminating sheets and fastening frames to sheets is involved. It's cheap, allows time for corrections (D'OH!) and doesn't take a full day to get the smell out of my senses, either.

Gerry- thanks for the compliment!

Charlie- maybe I'll try the Titebond II next time I'm sheeting, it sounds good. [8D]

AHA! So you've been converted to a 'glue snob' ; )

Oh man, you were just waiting for that one, weren't you? Answer: "No sir, I was just experimenting...."

Hi Charlie P. what type of glue is Titebond II
I dont think i have heard of it before..our maybe its under a different name over here..
..Gerry

Polyvinyl Acetate. A "yellow" glue. aka Carpenter's Glue. It's water resistant and dries flexible.

Not "snobby" at all. Used this kind of glue when I was 10 to make model rockets and rubber powered planes. Just try to minimize that pricy CA stuff that hurts my eyes. $3.49 for 8 oz is hardly "pattè de foie glue"

To name a few . . .

wood glue such as titebond II is the best glue to use
5-minute and 30-minute epoxies
thin and medium CA glue
different grits of sandpaper
painters dropcloth - the thicker the better - for protecting your plans while building
wood filler
pins of various sizes
plenty of razor blades
razor saw
drill and various drill bits
screwdrivers of all kinds and sizes
A bench vice comes in real handy too
wrenches and pliers
builders triangles and other measuring devises
sanding blocks and bars
mixing sticks and cups for epoxies
something to use as weights for certain areas like fuselages and wing sheeting
various size clamps
paint brushes for applying glues and paints
scissors
rubber bands and tape
files of various sizes
allen wrenches
needle nose pliers
jigsaw comes in real handy

TIME AND PATIENCE


oh yeah, and a camera to post your process in RCuniverse

Sorry, but that only covers some of the basics of building. When the buildings complete you will need in part:
Some type of covering
heat gun
sealing iron
cover socks to cover the iron head to protect the finish while covering
many more razor blades
rags
paper towels
other various tools to your preference

And then - of course - you need the field equipment.

Have fun with your build, hope I didn't discourage you, that was definitely not my intent - just the opposite, I want you to have fun building, I am sure you will want to do much more after this one. Just explaining the essentials I use. You, by all means, don't need to get all that of course. Get whatever you feel you need piece by piece and have fun.

And please feel free to ask whenever you need help - at any hour. We are here to help.

Yes, confess that I was. Let's just say we're both good sports. Glue away!!!

I've never heard Carpenter's glue described as Polyvinyl Acitate, only as Alphatic Resin. To an extent, it is the same as White glue. Titebond, Elmer's Carpenter glue, it's all similar.

I have many different kinds of glues, they all have different purposes. I know the different purposes, from using glues over many years. I won't list or inform of the uses, as I don't want to be considered a "GLUE SNOB"!

Wait a minute, if I list and describe, then I am a "GLUE SNOB"; but, if I don't describe, then I'm just a plain snob! Dang, I wish I would never have read this thread!

On titebond.com, they list Original and Dark Titebond as being Alphatic Resin. Titebond II is a Crosslinking PVA and Titebond III is a Proprietary Polymer. The shelf life for the original, dark and II is 2 years, and III is 1 year.


Now where's my Ambroid??

Scott

Fly really opened up Pandora's box on this thread! Maybe we 'adhesive engineers' should list all our 'glues'. I know it got me thinking and I believe I have 12 on the bench. Of course I never use those trendy glues like Hinge glue!

I've got quite a few bottles myself.

1.Great planes pro CA, Thin, med, Thick with Activator
2.5,16,30 min Epoxy
3.Alphatic Resin
4.R/C 56 glue
5.Contact cement

And More!

Ailphatic (fat based) and Polyvinyl Acetate (Lord knows what based) are different animals. Aliphatic is "white glue" and PVA is "yellow glue". Original Titebone is aliphatic and Titebone II is PVA. Titebond III is truly waterproof but is less flexible. Some "give" can prevent joint or wood breakage.

They all work, but the PVA is a little better at moisture resistance once dry and, I think, is more flexible. Good features in an airframe, especially one that may see damp snow or fly off water in its career. Still can wipe up the excess with a wet rag or finger when working.

Lessee . . .

Balsa USA CA Gold thin & thick and activator.
Great Planes Thin CA
Titebond II
Aileen's Tacky Glue
Elmer's Carpenter's glue
Hide glue (these last two for wood projects other than R/C)
77 Contact Cement spray
56 Canopy cement
West System Epoxy & 206 hardener
Great Planes 45 minute epoxy
Loctite
Loctite removable

. . . and more, but they're probably all herdened up lumps.

I don't think color matters. I use original Titebond Alphatic Resin, which is yellow. Though I haven't used it, they also make a dark, almost brown, glue that is also an Alphatic resin. I just did a search on a couple of white glues including Elmers brand and Duck Brand. Their MSDS (Medical Safety Data Sheets) list them all as PVA glues. DAP Weldwood Carpenters glue is also a PVA.

Scott

MSDS = Material Safety Data Sheet.

Is it possible that PVA and Alphatic Resin are one and the same? Elmer's does claim most of their Carpenter's Glue is PVA.

Looks like Charlie P covered the bulk of them. Of course he did omit Medium CA which I use all the time. Glad he included Loctite - essential. But he left out JB Weld if you need metal glue.

I know the folks who sheet foam core wings use a variety of glues and some who are allergic to ordinary CA use special odorless CA's. And don't forget CA debonder!

And someone mentioned Ambroid. I keep a tube around just because it smells good and reminds me of when I was 12 years old. 50 years ago that's all we had (except for Testors plastic glue).

OK, now we're all glue gurus!

AAAHH! J-B Weld. That's because I keep that on my "metal" workbench and not my "balsa" bench.


They even make in in the correct color just for me.

I don't use medium CA. I either need it to hold fast (thin), fill a gap (thick) or I can find something else that will work (PVA, epoxy, etc.) I also forgot CA Gel. The odorless Bob Smith Industries stuff is great, as is the BUSA CA Gel. PERFECT for wing bolt anchors and landing gear blocks.

Oh, and silicone caulk. I use this to plug holes in the firewall where fuel lines pass, or the tank cap presses through an opening to seal out exhaust oils. Put wax paper on the wing and it can make a pretty good saddle seal, too.