Servos for 1/4 Scale
#2
What's your budget?
What brand transmitter & receiver?
I'll give you what I would consider adequate in that model.
I like the coreless Futaba S9202 (76 oz-in torque) as a good strength to cost ratio for rudder and elevator, but many giant scale fliers won't go "non-digital" and the fast and furious 3-D flyers think they are way too slow. In a scale WWI biplane they will be more than scale speed responsive.
You could get by with S9001 (54 oz-in torque) on the ailerons (two servos).
You don't need HD servos for the throttle and I opt for S3001 in that duty.
That's what I'd put in her. But then, I'm frugal. Put in a second 1500 mah battery pack and switch and you're set.
What brand transmitter & receiver?
I'll give you what I would consider adequate in that model.
I like the coreless Futaba S9202 (76 oz-in torque) as a good strength to cost ratio for rudder and elevator, but many giant scale fliers won't go "non-digital" and the fast and furious 3-D flyers think they are way too slow. In a scale WWI biplane they will be more than scale speed responsive.
You could get by with S9001 (54 oz-in torque) on the ailerons (two servos).
You don't need HD servos for the throttle and I opt for S3001 in that duty.
That's what I'd put in her. But then, I'm frugal. Put in a second 1500 mah battery pack and switch and you're set.
#3
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From: Windsor Heights,
IA
Like most...I don't want to go super high end but I don't want bottom end either...middle of the road I guess would be good for me. I have a Futaba 6EXA radio. How do I add an additional battery pack to the circuit?
Thanks a lot for your help.
Thanks a lot for your help.
#4
The coreless servos I mentioned are middle of the road. Sensitive, but not to the extent of the pricier digital servos. I fly FM (not PCM) and IMHO the digital servos would be wasted on me and my skills.
If you have a receiver with an unused slot you add a second battery pack (identical to the first) and a second switch. I use the Futaba Heavy Duty switch harnesses and a pair of 4.8v Futaba 1500 mah packs for costly birds. If your receiver is full you add a heavy duty "Y" harness to another slot (not the "B") and jumper it in that way. A battery doesn't have to plug into the battery port. This will protect you from a switch failure, and a "open circuit" battery failure, but not a shorted out battery failure. You'd need pair of diodes in that set-up . . . and the corresponding loss of power across them.
Check out Red Scholefield's excellent site: http://www.rcbatteryclinic.com/ Look under "Parallel Operation"
If you have a receiver with an unused slot you add a second battery pack (identical to the first) and a second switch. I use the Futaba Heavy Duty switch harnesses and a pair of 4.8v Futaba 1500 mah packs for costly birds. If your receiver is full you add a heavy duty "Y" harness to another slot (not the "B") and jumper it in that way. A battery doesn't have to plug into the battery port. This will protect you from a switch failure, and a "open circuit" battery failure, but not a shorted out battery failure. You'd need pair of diodes in that set-up . . . and the corresponding loss of power across them.
Check out Red Scholefield's excellent site: http://www.rcbatteryclinic.com/ Look under "Parallel Operation"




