Alex7403

Hi all,

My name is Alex, and im building a sig Mid star 40, with OS 46 AX motor waiting.

Im before sanding for covering, the thing from the tail fin is an antenna tube.

I think there might be an issue behind the canopy, there is a big gap to cover with no wood to back it up, so I added so balsa pieces between the fuselage and the balsa beam.

Thanks

Alex

Bruno Stachel

My Feedback: (4)

Looks good Alex. It appears that you did your homework for this. Probably not a bad idea adding the balsa between the two fuse stringers.

MinnFlyer

My Feedback: (4)

That big gap is really not an issue

Looks great! Giggidy giggidy

Alex7403

Thanks Mike and Bruno,

im at the stage that im tierd of building, and the thing called life has its demands, but i hope soon it will be in the air.

Alex

HollywoodHitman

I'm looking at this plane for my second build, and the first plane after my trainer. Do you guys have any thoughts on this or recommend another I should be looking at?

Cheers,

HH

Alex7403

Hello,

I think its an easy build, some problematic corners are missing from this kit, which makes it very easy to build.

the ailerons and the elevator run till the end of the wings, means no hard corners to cover.

in my opinion the kit is of high quality, parts fit perfectly.

Alex

Funflyer1999

I love the pilot!

rkrider

HH
This would be an excellent kit for you to build. I"ve built several kits and this has to be one of the best as far as construction goes. Looks good and flys well also.
Steve

HollywoodHitman

Hey Steve,

Thanks for the info. I'm just working on finishing my Eagle 2, just today recieved my MAAC membership in the mail and am now looking for a club. I'm thinking about this kit for my next plane ( I think it's a great looking machine too ) with an OS 55 AX. (I have the OS .46 AX for the Eagle)......

I guess besides the build being a good one, is this plane a good one for my second plane to fly? Off to get some work done on my fuselage!

Cheers,

HH

Alex7403

Hi all,

Had enough from ARF’s, they just don’t sustain landings so well, and covered white which hard to spot in the sky, ARF’s don’t live to long compare to kits.

So I decided to build an easy kit. Its first full build, thought I’ll get mistakes but its easier then I thought.

Found these forums when I needed immediate help with something, so didn’t think of taking pictures during build, full build in pictures like the pro’s here will be next time.

The mid star is an easy plane to build, the laser cut ply wood and balsa are falling in place in such perfect fit it amazes me every time.

The motor is OS 46 AX, radio I intend to use is Tower Hobbies 6 ch 6XM with tower servos, was a combo, tough im thinking changing to futaba servos

Alex

Kmot

My Feedback: (24)

It looks very good Alex! And I like your pilot.

donkey doctor

Hello Alex; I have built 3 of these wonderful airplanes, improveing my tequnique with each build, and adding some improvements. I don't care for two strokes, and used Saito's and Enya 46's and 53's. I think your chioce for a second plane couldn't be better. The Mid-star 40 will teach you more about flying then any other plane I can think of. I wish I had one now.

One area where I thought a bit of improvement was needed was in rudder authority. I added an air balance to the second one, but found it still didn't give me the authority I wanted. The third one I built, I patterned the rudder after the Extra 3oo rudder. I added an inch to the top of the rudder and included that in the air balance. That gave me the performance I wanted.

I prefer four strokes, since I found myself flying at part throttle most of the time, and I couldn't find a two stroke that would carberate reliably from part throttle. Your two strokes will work fine at full throttle, and a lot of people just fly at full throttle anywhere.

tail dragger is the best way for this one.

maayan

great plane, and it looks good!
the 46AX will have more then enough power for it, an apc 11*7 is what i recommend.
really makes me want to build onther one (mine was sold years ago).
the midstar is one of the best plane i had, go with a tail drager..
[8D]

donkey doctor

Hello; Another thing I just thought of; I put cap strips on the ribs from the leading edge to the spar, top and bottom. I was going to use transparent covering over the wing and thought that the capstrips wouldkeep the covering from being punctured by the sharp ribs. I thought that perhaps I might be changeing the wings shape, but it flew just as well as the first one I built, without the capstrips.

Alex7403

Thanks Mayan and Donkey_Doctor,
im considering to cover the LE.
the rudder is already coverd...

Thanks
Alex

Alex7403

Sorry guys.

I was just realizing a glued hard mistake.
I want to finish it and fly it, its getting damaged from building…

I’m building a Sig mid star 40 and it looks like a did a mistake, wanted to build it as a trike it pulls it into tail dragger.

Self lock nuts of the landing gear are dirty with CA, I need to replace them, or just to make it tail dragger as many recommend.

The bass wood to support the landing gear is in the middle and it should be forwarded.
How ever there are 3 pieces of ply wood where suppose to be the tail dragger landing gear.

Does the landing gear wood plate suppose to break out instead of tearing bigger part of the plane in case of hard landing?

From the picture of the belly, if I choose tail dragger do I need to cut the LGear plate?
Separating it from the belly? i dont want to cut my airplane.




Thanks
Alex

maayan

hey
I started with a trike configuration.
after a while i decided to convert it to a tail drager. (moved to a better field).
i could have ripped out the mount but it would have made more damege then good.
instead i beefed up the location for the gear, used scrap piceas of ply.
it worked woderfull.

because you still can, i would suggest to allow the new mounting to be broken off clean,
not damaging the fuse.

good luck.

vmsguy

I'm wondering... Can't you disolve the CA in the blind nuts?

I'm trying to remember.. didn't people you nail polish remove to disolve CA?

Barring that, you might be able to run a tap down the blind nuts and clean them out. CA by itself is brittle. A very sharp, pointy knife should be able to chip/clear most of the CA from the threads. Then a tap can clean the rest. The local hardware store should have one near the drill bits. A tap is a few bucks.

It's worth a shot.


Good luck

Alex7403

OK, the blind nuts issue resolved,
in the first picture its the inner where the landing gear should be, what should i do to use this as tail dragger?
is this enough?

I’m closing the holes in the wing using wood filler and gonna sand it.


The dimensions of the fuel tank compartment:
Length 5�
Width 3�
Height 2 ¼�
Height could have been increased, but that’s out of the plans.

im putting there 8 oz tank with two clunks, one feed ant the other is refil and one vent, means three holes for the tank.

Alex7403

-

Alex7403

Maayan,
What do you mean broken off? i have few pieces of ply there

to cut out the new mounting from the bottom side or to leave it as is?

Thanks
Alex

maayan

hey
i would use a dremel tool, using a small disk cut 2 straight lines.
making the mounting location a "plate" on it own.
this way the plate will break out with out taking piceas of fuse.
[8D]

Alex7403

Thanks Maayan

Alex7403

Hello,

Can i use CA hinges if i already covered the ailrones, or should i use other hinges?
or maybe to take the cover off?

Thanks
Alex

maayan

theres no problem.
mark the location on wings and ailerons.
them using an exacto knife make the slot for the hing.
i belive that hinging should be done after covering.
it allows you to make sure there is no exposed wood.

i slot before covering.