Jaybird

Sorry, I was thinking Pittsfield when I was talking about the airport area. Now that you mention the RIGHT place, I do remember hearing about guys flying at those places a long time ago. I've flown full size into the Dexter airport but they haven't flown models there for a long time. When I visit my dad in Dover-Foxcroft, we go back towards Dexter and fly at a small private field just across from the Log Cabin grocery store. When the hay is mowed it's really nice.

Yes, the close up picture was taken in the back yard last spring when I was finishing it up and getting ready for the first test flights. There are small wild strawberry bushes around the back yard.

Sounds like a tough environment for models. I hadn't considered the affects of the heat...especially when it's 20-30 degrees and snow covered here!

Jaybird

PacificNWSkyPilot

My Feedback: (19)

Jaybird,

When I was going back to check out #915, I came across some shots of your plane at the Kennebec Valley Flyers field, in post #979.

I used to belong to that club (and most of the other clubs in the area), but could never get over the creepy feeling I got from the telephone wires running so low across the runway. Seeing the wires in that photo reminded me. There was also a very bossy guy there, I can only assume he was formerly a Sergeant in the Army or something before that. He couldn't resist telling everybody how they should be flying, yet he could barely keep his own models in the air.

Needless to say, I didn't go there a whole lot! Hindsight is interesting, though. I'd trade every field here for just that one!

Jim

u2builder

We are having a pretty mild winter so far in New England with very little snow and mild temps. Still, I am not flying, but rather in the workshop!. It is very easy on the models since they are hanging in the garage waiting for Spring. I visited a friend in ME a couple years ago. He belonged to the PropSnappers Club, outside of Portland. They had a nice set up I think on top of an old landfill. I belong to two clubs near Keene, NH. They are beautiful spots. One, ironically, is on Army Corp floodplane land, and is a bird sanctuary as well as our model field. Talk about multiple use!

I just went back and saw Jaybird's reference to PropSnappers and looked at the Photo of his Skybolt there and now I recognize the little booth from when I visited an old friend, Wally Schauer a couple of years ago. I remember it had a charging station in back. I was impressed because we don't have that kind of facility or membership to support it, though our fields are certainly beautiful.

Jaybird

Hi Jim,

I fly mostly at the KVMA field since it's the closest and most accomodating as far as winds go. Yes, I've hit those wires before and they can be pretty intimidating. More than one plane has had it's wings or tail torn off on a high speed runway pass.

The bossy guy is still there if you want me to say "Hi' for you. When I joined in the late 90's there were two of them that separately were okay most of the time, but if both were there at the same time it could get really abusive with a lot of foul language. They've mellowed a bit since then. The guys I fly with are all very friendly and helpful.

I prefer just two or three fliers rather than a big crowd.

Jaybird

PacificNWSkyPilot

My Feedback: (19)

Oh, don't get me started about the Log Cabin! That place had the BEST baked treats! Anything you wanted, brownies, cakes, you could get a sugar bellyache guaranteed! I used to hunt up on the ridge that runs behind it. Of course, I love Dexter and I'm crazy about Dover-Foxcroft, not a prettier town in a hundred miles.

So, you must know Jeff London and Stan Tenney from the Log-Cabin field? And Rick Hallett from Pittsfield? I know Rick is gone, and I heard Stan wasn't doing well last time I heard, and as usual, I never hear anything about Jeff until I happen upon him somewhere. Who's your Dad? I probably have flown with him.

And yes, I've flown at the Pittsfield airport, but after Rick passed away I heard that ended that for the RC guys. The parachute people were always nervous about the little planes buzzing around when they were jumping. There was always some genius who had to fly too close to them, so Rick was always smoothing ruffled feathers.

No, you don't need to say hello for me, I tried to remain invisible to him as much as possible, and when he showed up, I typically left, or didn't bother unpacking if I found him there. I don't even remember his name, and I like it that way!


Jim

Jaybird

u2,

I visit the Guildhall Fun Flyers a couple of time a year. I especially like their War Bird Fly-in. The flood plane area sounds very similar to their field with the river winding around on three sides. Great bunch of guys and very friendly too. I've met up with them at Rhinebeck a couple of times as well.

I've been doing some winter flying with small electrics and glow. It's been too cold and windy the last couple weekends.

Jaybird

PacificNWSkyPilot

My Feedback: (19)

I lost a fin and rudder and servo to those wires once, and another time a set of landing gear, and that time half a wood prop, too. But not from bumbling into them. I'm a sucker for a dare. Had to try and fly between them, don'tcha know. Came out better than my friends, though, usually. [&:]

I don't think I'd take a dare these days, but you just never know until you're standing there and the insults start flying!

Jim

Jaybird

Jim,

We love the Log Cabin chicken pies and whoopee pies! Best on the planet.

My father is Clifford Wiley. I can't remember the man's whole name but dad refers to "Hagar" as keeping the field mowed and open for us. I'm not familiar with the Dexter names you mentioned but my dad might know them. I did know Rick and had great fun with some of his large foam and carbon fiber gliders. That man could make anything fly! When my brother comes out from Michigan to visit we go to the Dexter field too. We always draw a crowd whenever we fly there.

Jaybird

PacificNWSkyPilot

My Feedback: (19)

Jaybird,

Doubtless I must have met you a few times during the late 90's and the early 2000's before I moved away to TX. I sure wish I was still there, but I don't have to tell you about the economy and the job situation there in Maine right now. It's pretty grim.

It's nice to revisit the old haunts, even if only in my memory!

Jim

u2builder

Time to start the covering. I decided to shamelessly copy Rfllyin's yellow and black scheme. I liked it a lot and it is a simple design, which appeals to me.

I like to stick to combinations of Monokote colors I typically use so I don't have a lot of partial rolls.

I also like to use colors for which Lusterkote is available as I really like this paint, and it matches close enough for me.

I also use colors for which Monokote trim tape is available because I find this the best way for me to apply trim.

I tend to like to apply checkers to the bottoms of wings for the looks and the contrast. I hand cut my checkers. I divided the wing into three sections vertically, and spaced on the rib bays horizontally, so that all seams are overlapped over wood by about 3/8". This holds up very well.

PacificNWSkyPilot

My Feedback: (19)

When I want my checkerboard to be highly visible, I cut my own too. It's a lot of work, but it looks great! You're coming along nicely there!

Jim

Jaybird

Agreed. The larger the checkerboard pattern the better. I find the small checkerboard covering for sale blends into a single color when seen from the ground. Unless you are making a very low pass, the contrast between the top and bottom colors is lost. I think your large squares will show up great and offer good orientation during aerobatics.

Eager to see the finished product.

Jaybird

Zor

I would appreciate to get my mind clarified.

I first looked at the pictures and figured that I was looking at a yellow wing (yellow all over) with black square (rectangles) glued on to form the pattern.

Then reading the text it is mentioned 3/8" overlaps.
It seems to mean that the yellows are also a bunch of cut rectangles.

Apparently the joint from leading edge to trailing edge are all on ribs which may have capstrip 3/8" wide.

Is there also wood under all those joints that are spanwise ?

It just seems to me that it would be lots easier to cover the whole wing in yellow and superimpose the black over it.

Perhaps I am way offtrack but I do not see how.

Zor

Zor

[Lots of problems with this forum these days.

I get error 500 so apparently the posting did not go through.

So I try the posting again and find out it is now a duplicate of post #1322.

We just do not know how to handle this anymore.

Same with picture that do not upload then we try again with edit and sometime we have to try two or three time to post the pictures.

I do not see any difficulty with my computer.

I have read some comments that apparently ohers have problems like this also.

Zor

u2builder

Zor, the checkerboard is created from individual rectangles. There are three laid out chordwise, bay by bay, as per the pictures. One is on the leading edge, one is on the open rib bay, and one is on the trailing edge/aileron. The process is to start at the root leading edge and lay down a checker, then to put one below it over the rib bay, and finally one over the trailing edge. Then go outboard one bay and do the same thing. I go back and do the aileron after the wing is done. In each case the new checker overlaps the previous checker by about 3/8" and each over lap is over wood so it is easy to get a good seal.

I think it would be just as much or more work to cover the entire wing and then try to overlay checkers and if it is Monokote over Monokote there will likely be bubbles. Plus, this is lighter weight as there is only one covering. It is kind of fun to do if you are not in a desperate hurry. You will notice that on the wing that is swept, the checkers are also swept. This is kind of cool in my opinion and you can't get it with store bought checkers.

Yes, I find this website is very slow to load, and often gives me errors. I have to copy my posts so I don't have to rewrite them if they get disappeared.

u2builder

Zor, the checkerboard is created from individual rectangles. There are three laid out chordwise, bay by bay, as per the pictures. One is on the leading edge, one is on the open rib bay, and one is on the trailing edge/aileron. The process is to start at the root leading edge and lay down a checker, then to put one below it over the rib bay, and finally one over the trailing edge. Then go outboard one bay and do the same thing. I go back and do the aileron after the wing is done. In each case the new checker overlaps the previous checker by about 3/8" and each over lap is over wood so it is easy to get a good seal.

I think it would be just as much or more work to cover the entire wing and then try to overlay checkers and if it is Monokote over Monokote there will likely be bubbles. Plus, this is lighter weight as there is only one covering. It is kind of fun to do if you are not in a desperate hurry. You will notice that on the wing that is swept, the checkers are also swept. This is kind of cool in my opinion and you can't get it with store bought checkers.

Yes, I find this website is very slow to load, and often gives me errors. I have to copy my posts so I don't have to rewrite them if they get disappeared.

Zor

u2builder,

I see that you also ended with a double posting. I am not alone .

It is obvious that all users (participants) in this forum have the same situation and difficulties these days.
It was not this way a couple of monhs ago. Changes are not always for the best.

I believe that the people running RC U are not the originators of the software in use. Likely they pay for the use of that forum running software and have to rely on the software writers to fix things.

I wish to thank you for your explanaton of the checkerboard covering and the method used to apply it.
Another little bit in my knowledge of "how to do this or that".

You did not say but I suspect that all ovelaps of 3/8" are over a wood hackground (substrate) of 3/8" or more.
Please kindly cover this detail ..... I am thinking of readers that may wish to do this kind of covering.

I have seen such checkerboard under the wings and tail of a full size aerobatic airplane at a local airport air show. I think it was a Pitts. Such covering sure help to keep track of the aerobatic maneuver orientation for the spectators.

Although I am not the builder of a Sopwith, I am following this thread with high interest and enjoy the work done by the builders.

Congratulations to all the builders. Some real fine work being done.

Zor

Zor

u2builder,

I see that you also ended with a double posting. I am not alone .

It is obvious that all users (participants) in this forum have the same situation and difficulties these days.
It was not this way a couple of monhs ago. Changes are not always for the best.

I believe that the people running RC U are not the originators of the software in use. Likely they pay for the use of that forum running software and have to rely on the software writers to fix things.

I wish to thank you for your explanaton of the checkerboard covering and the method used to apply it.
Another little bit in my knowledge of "how to do this or that".

You did not say but I suspect that all ovelaps of 3/8" are over a wood hackground (substrate) of 3/8" or more.
Please kindly cover this detail ..... I am thinking of readers that may wish to do this kind of covering.

I have seen such checkerboard under the wings and tail of a full size aerobatic airplane at a local airport air show. I think it was a Pitts. Such covering sure help to keep track of the aerobatic maneuver orientation for the spectators.

Although I am not the builder of a Sopwith, I am following this thread with high interest and enjoy the work done by the builders.

Congratulations to all the builders. Some real fine work being done.

Zor

Zor

Sure enough ___

In posting I got a "time out" notice so I tried again.

I then got a 500 server error.

On the third attempt I got a quick error flashing quickly on my monitor immediatly followed by a double posting.

I am writing this so participants and readers know what is going on.

This posting may also end up being double.

if so I will not bother trying to fix the double posting.

Zor

PacificNWSkyPilot

My Feedback: (19)

I'm with Zor on this one.

I always cover the frame with the yellow, or whatever base color, and then apply the squares. It weighs a bit more, but if a square's edge starts to lift, oil can't get into the frame. Air can't get inside and cause a blowout of the covering either, except maybe a single square coming off. Easy to fix.

A couple of months ago, I had a leading edge of some pre-made checkerboard covering let go on my little Sundancer bipe, and it made a ton of noise. Upon landing, I pulled the loose pieces off and went flying again, sans checkerboard on the one side of that wing.

I'm pretty cautious about how I apply my coverings. In over 30 years, I've seen coverings come loose for every imaginable reason. I'm not saying that it's GOING to happen, just that the potential is there. Something to think about.

Jim

u2builder

Gosh, I have never even had a hint of a problem with this, and I've probably done a dozen planes this way, probably more. I have hundreds of such squares. And my planes tend to get slathered with oil. I do a good job at sealing my seams, and all seals are done over wood. That makes it possible, I think, to get a really good heat/adhesive bonding.


I think Monokote has very good adhesive. It is a high temperature adhesive and I go over all of the seams with my iron on a very high setting. I have had oil get under the seams of a couple of cheap Chinakote ARFS.

I have also had occasion to do deep repairs on a couple of wings after crashes and have never seen any evidence of oil on the structure.

u2builder

Hmm, my last post did not go through so I will try it again. I wondered why I didn't get any answers.

I unwrapped my canopy and was bummed to find it with several severe creases that will not come out. I must say it is a fairly flimsy canopy too. Does anyone know if the ARF canopy will fit the Kit Skybolt. I hope so because if not I will have an open cockpit Bolt. Thanks.

Zor, yes, the checkers are laid out so all overlaps are over wood to get a good seal. I size the checkers so that they correspond to the width of the rib bays, and seal over the cap strips. Once the wing is all done I go over the seams again. I have never had one come loose at all.

u2builder

Here are some more covering pics.

I want to share with other builders what I have come to feel is the best way to install trim, at least with Monokote, and believe me, I have tried everything.

I started with just trying to iron Monokote over Monokote. I always got a lot of bubbles.

I read about the Windex method, where Windex is used under regular Monokote. It is supposed to activate the adhesive. I tested Windex as well as many other chemicals and they don't activate the sealant. I believe the trim is held on just by contact as the solvent evaporates. Unless it is sealed around the edges it can be peeled off.

Carb cleaner and Monokote Trim Solvent do activate the adhesive on Monokote, but I almost always make a mess with this approach, as it requires exact positioning the first time , and the exact right amount of Trim Solvent.

For me the absolute best way to apply trim is to use the Monokote Trim with the adhesive backing. It is very simple. First, apply a lot of Windex to the base layer. This is not a solvent, just something to keep the trim from sticking until it is perfectly placed and bubble free. Next, carefully lay the trim down making sure it slides easily. Hold it where you want it and squeegie out the Windex. I find the best squeegie is a piece of balsa as it is stiff but still conforms to the surface. Using a paper towel and the squeegie, get all the water and what few bubbles you may find out. Then let it finish drying overnight.

I rarely get any bubbles at all with this technique, and my trim work looks good to me. It even goes across rib bays well. Sometimes where the trim goes from the last rib to the wingtip there is a little bubble that can easily be shrunk by an iron.

This adhesive is very good and the trim cannot be removed once it has dried overnight. Ask me how I know.

I have seen some fablous trim jobs on this site and am not presuming to tell anyone how to do things, but if you have trouble with bubbles and trim, you might give this a try.

The last two photos show hand cut checkers applied to the tail with overlaps. This is not done with Monokote trim.

u2builder

Here are a couple more pics.

I took my time painting the cowl and stuff and pretty much avoided runs or dropping the parts on the floor while the paint was wet. I used Lusterkote. I like it as it is easy, though it takes a lot of coats. One good thing is you can recoat latter without the solvent attacking the paint.

Also shown is trim on tail and fuse.

u2builder

So, does anyone know if the ARF canopy will fit? I need to order one if it does.

Also, are you guys using the CG shown on the plans, which is about 1/2" forward of the rear cabane? It does not seem like the CG in the manual is correct unless I misread something. Right now I am looking to be a little tail heavy, though I don't really know as I don't have my TNT landing gear or wheels or spats or even a prop for that matter.

Thanks guys.