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Ultimate G.P. Bipe .40 Engine problem

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Old 03-08-2003 | 06:31 PM
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Default Ultimate G.P. Bipe .40 Engine problem

Bought kit as combo w/ a S.T. .51 engine. Mounted motor and it is crooked by about the amount the plans said to cut off one side of the fush. Also had to cut off the back of the cowel to get the prop plate out far enough. Now the carb is jambed up pretty far into the front of the cowel. It also doen't have a rear mount needle valve and that is going to look funny with it that far up. Haven't cut any holes in cowel yet any sugestions? Do they make a long shaft motor and can you get a rear mount needle valve add on kit for Super Tiger?
Old 03-09-2003 | 02:55 PM
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Default Ultimate G.P. Bipe .40 Engine problem

I'm not sure I understand your concerns, but I'll have a go at it.

"Crooked" by the right amount: I assume you mean the correct amount of right thrust (engine pointing to the right side of the fuselage, usually about 2 degrees). Most cowls will require trimming to get the correct fit in several areas (including the rear where they usually slip over the fuse by 1/4" or more. Simply trim this so it is a uniform overlap all the way around. With the plastic cowls, use tape or a marker line and lightly score it on the line with your hobby knife. Go over the scored line several times without cutting through the plastic. Now gently bend the plastic back and forth on the line until it snaps, giving you a clean break. You will usually have to cut several holes in the cowl. That includes clearance for the carb, cooling holes in the front of the cowl, cooling holes at the rear of the cowl (underneath so you don't see them), a hole for needle valve adjustment, holes for the exhaust, and if you use a fueling valve you'll need a hole for it as well. To cut the holes, lay out the hole shape with a Sharpie permanent marker. Drill a hole in the middle, then use a Dremel moto tool with a bur or sanding drum to shave away the rest until you reach the final shape. Any marker left on the plastic can be wiped off with a little rubbing alcohol.

The needle valve should have a hole in the end of it with a set screw. Put a piece of wire in it with a bend on the end ("L"-shaped) to extend it outside of the cowl so you can adjust it without removing the cowl.

You asked about an extended shaft engine. Don't extend your engine backplate farther from the firewall than the plans suggest. Doing so will change your CG (center of gravity), plus might change the appearance of the model in a negative way.

Hope this helps.
Pilgrim
Old 03-09-2003 | 03:14 PM
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Default ultmate

Thanks for the help! I did not know about the 2 degree right thrust. As far as the cowel I got it to fit but had to trim out alot in the front for the carb and needle assebly to clear. I also had to trim out alot from underneath for the Pitts muffler to clear. I trimed straight back from muffler to front of fush to allow plenty of area since I understand they have a cooling problem. I also pluged the left hole in the front of the cowel. Just seems like alot of cutting. Thank again.
Could someone explain right thrust a little more?
Old 03-09-2003 | 05:11 PM
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Default Ultimate G.P. Bipe .40 Engine problem

You do know the engine is intended to be mounted sideways, right?
Old 03-09-2003 | 05:15 PM
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Default ULTIMATE

Yes it's in there sideways.
Old 03-09-2003 | 06:14 PM
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Default Ultimate G.P. Bipe .40 Engine problem

The right thrust (and sometimes down thrust, too) are designed in to make the plane fly straight. Sound crazy, huh? The rotation of the engine (remember your physics class?) creates an equal and opposite force on the rest of the plane, making it want to tip the left wing down/right wing up. This makes the plane want to turn left. Add into this what is commonly known as a "P-factor" (don't ask, I don't grasp the whole theory), which also does funny things to the plane. Suffice to say that the plane flies more true, or in a straight line, with the thrust angle offset just a little. This is different on each different airframe.

Pilgrim

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