Spray Paint???
#1
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From: Quakertown,
PA
I am finishing up this winter's project and I decided to paint the cowl and wheel pants with Chevron Perfect Paint from a spray can. Normally I spray all my glass parts with automotive paint and a professional gun, but I didn't want to spend the money on this plane. I sprayed some test pieces today and the results were not all that good. The paint nozzles spit and do not spray evenly. I am just wondering is there anything else out there better to match monokote in a spray bomb? I haven't heard many good things about the Top Flite Lusterkote. Any info would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks, Travis
Thanks, Travis
#2
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From: Wabash, IN,
I know the frustration you are having with these spray paints. I just finished my winter project in base Lustrekote silver with black and yellow trim. All colors lifted when masking tape was used for the next color, I let the paint cure 3 days before applying masking tape so it should not have been a cure problem. I finally used automotive paint for the black and yellow, and some Chevron Perfect Paints silver, it was a perfect match to the Lustrakote, but it runs easily and seems like it never wants to cure. I have sworn off both Lustrekote and Chevron spray cans. I have been able to utilize Chevron in a can with my airbrush. It too took quite some time to cure but it left a beautiful finish. It sounds like you have a pretty high degree of spray experience so you might want to give the canned paint and airbrush a try.
#3
KRYLON paint-- available at your local Wal-Mart or K-Mart.
It's fuel proof and matches monkeykote pretty good.
Here's a tip for shake-n-shoot paint:
Put the can in a pan of hot tap water for about 15-20 minutes before you shoot. I try not to go over about 115 degrees F. Don't want a bomb going off in the shop!!
It heats up the paint and increases the pressure in the can. The heated paint gets thinner and comes out really nice with no splattering or blotches. The increased pressure in the can helps to atomize the paint when it comes out the nozzle.
Hope this helps out.
It's fuel proof and matches monkeykote pretty good.
Here's a tip for shake-n-shoot paint:
Put the can in a pan of hot tap water for about 15-20 minutes before you shoot. I try not to go over about 115 degrees F. Don't want a bomb going off in the shop!!
It heats up the paint and increases the pressure in the can. The heated paint gets thinner and comes out really nice with no splattering or blotches. The increased pressure in the can helps to atomize the paint when it comes out the nozzle.
Hope this helps out.
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From: Lake Havasu City,
AZ
I painted my first field box with Krylon. I must have gotten a couple of bad cans. When that 10% hit my shiny new field box, that Krylon peeled off like a new Prom dress!
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From: Beaumont,
TX
The only thing I can tell you about Lustre coat is not good. I did an RV 4 with a red monocoate and bought the can of Lustre coat at the same time as the covering..I was really excited that they came out with this "matching"paint...until I used it...The match wasn't even close.
I just finished an Ultra Sport Plus kit and covered it with Gold Metallic..Got a can of Gold spray in a can...Champion brand....It's perfect......
I just finished an Ultra Sport Plus kit and covered it with Gold Metallic..Got a can of Gold spray in a can...Champion brand....It's perfect......
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From: Quakertown,
PA
Thanks guys for the replies. I tried the Perfect paint again on some more test pieces and the results were better this time around. Basically I took Rcpilet's recommendation, but not quite as far as the hot tap water. I just brought the paint up from the basement into the house and let it sit for a few days to warm completely to room temp(70 deg.). I also used white primer instead of the gray that I used before. The combination of the 2 changes seems to have worked. The paint sprays much more evenly without spitting and the color matches pretty well for a spray bomb.




