I am just starting to build my first kits and I hit a problem I haven't been able to figure out. When working with CA what can you glue on that the CA will not stick to. I tried wax paper, but that didn't work. Is there anything, or do you just have to be extremely careful with CA and not get it on anything you don't want to glue. thanks.

Use Saran wrap (or equivalent). Be EXTREMELY careful with that glue. The fumes can cause asthma like symptoms. It's best to use some of the "old fashion" glues.

Amen to being careful with CA. I would recommend "TiteBond" or similar for most work and limit the CA only when necessary and ten with plenty of ventilation.

When I first started building kits, CA wasn't a problem for me, but in recent years, after using CA, I get all the symptoms of asthma and wind up puffing on "Advair" for a month or so.

DaveB

Clear plastic sheeting used for painting drop cloths. You can find it in the paint section at Lowe's/Home Depot/Wal-mart. But I agree with the others. Give up on the CA and use wood glue. I did that about 6 years ago and I feel that my builds have gotten better since doing it.

Ken

An alternative to CA's and the "old fashioned glues" is Super Phatic. It is a yellow carpenters glue that has had ingredients added to it that A) thin in it out, allowing it to "wick" into joints like thin CA & B) promotes it's setting time. It will normally set up in 20 minutes and reach full strength in 2 hours. Not as fast as CA's but quicker than "old fashioned glues" The best part is no fumes or vapours to irritate your eyes and nose and since it's water based, it won't bond to your skin instantly, it washes off with warm soap and water. Once set, it's water proof.

In the US you can get it from Hobby Lobby or ontarioadhesives.ca in Canada.

Great stuff, I don't use CA's anymore.

Chris

I use old Monokote backing, the clear stuff that prevents the covering from sticking to itself when on the roll. I have started keeping the large chunks (when you use that really big piece to cover the whole bottom of a wing panel), and using those for the next wing. I find its also nice to have a small piece (10 inches by 8 inches maybe?) that be used when building smaller parts like the stabs, rudders.....

I was wondering if it sticks to the lamination kinkos can do. I would love to get my plans laminated and not have to worry about it anymore. Anyone try it?

eniac

CA will stick to Saran Wrap.

Pick up a plastic drop cloth from Wal-Mart, Lowes, Home Depot, etc. I suggest at least a 2 mill thickness. Another good choice is the backing from Monokote.

I use waxed paper. The trick is to use CA very sparingly. Too much and it will stick to anything.

I'm not a chemist but I believe that cyanoacrylate is just another name for a polyisocyanate resin . This stuff not only irratates your lungs but is absorbed into your system through skin and membranes where it affects (permanently) your liver and nervous system.There are alot of dead body shop workers due to isocyanate exposure and in the painting industry it is commonly known that the only way to keep this stuff out of you is a comlpete suit and air supplied resparator. But it is strong and fast. Any input on this issue would be appreciated. I'm also interested in more details on the alphatic glue that Chris mentioned earlier.

This is not the same chemical that you were referring to captken. You are right about the effects of polyisocyanate, however the worst cyanoacrylate exposure will cause is as described above, asthma like symptoms. It can get worse over time, but symptoms remain the same. I would find it hard to believe anyone has died of CA exposure unless they were extremely sensitive to it. Well in that case you could die from being extremely sensitive to anything. I wanted to let this out before this thread gets flooded with folks in a panic about CA. Thou must ventilate to be able to respirate!