Solstice

My Feedback: (1)

I'm about ready to start my build of the recent US60 kit. I realize folks have been building these for years and the kit does not take all this considerable experience into account. Has anyone gone through the build and made notes on the errors, ommisions and noted any steps that should be done differently?

What about mods? I suspect folks don't often use a single aileron servo and torque rods. Any tips on where to place the servo in the wing? Mid cord, root?

What other mods?

I'm going to use retracts from 3dxhobbies. Any gothcha's on the install?

What about tips on doing some of the more laborious tasks like sanding the belly pan or the nose blocks?

Any recommendations for servos or the throws of the surfaces?

Is there any reason to change the size or shape of the surfaces (ailerons etc)?

How about engine recommendations that don't make this thing either a bear to balance or impossible to prop?

This is a hugely popular kit, I would be surprised if someone hasn't pulled all this info together somewhere so future generations can benefit (like me ).

I appreciate any and all thoughts. I'll be reading the other threads on this one as well.

Thank you for the help.

Kelsey_B

If yours is one of the new releases, I believe the nose blocks have been replaced with a plastic cowl. If not, 60 grit sand paper and a sanding block make quick work of balsa.

The only problem I ever ran into was the wood for the stab was not the right width. I had to add small strip to make mine match the plans. I think this happened with some of the earlier kits.

I don't think any of the surfaces need to be changed. I use the standard ailerons on low rates, which is plenty for this plane.

I have also tried the one vs two aileron servos and saw no difference. For the US60, I prefer a single servo with torque rods. Why mess with extensions, y-harnes, and hatches.

I do like Minn's idea of building up the belly instead of using solid blocks. I also added a 1/32 ply plate where the nylon bolts pass through the balsa. I didn't want a slip of a screwdriver to dent my wood. Thats the only changes I would make to the standard kit. Its pretty good right out of the box.

Keith

RCKen

My Feedback: (9)

This was an error from a misprint on Tower's website when these kits were first re-released. There is no ABS cowl, it's still built up balsa the same as it's always been.

Ken

hrrcflyer

Solstice,

Minnflyer did an excellent build thread here on RCU on his US kit. If I'm not mistaken, the thread was called US60 Lite. He had alot of excellent suggestions that can be applied on your 60 size kit. Hopefully it won't be long before I start mine. What engine are you considering for yours? I'm thinking of putting a YS110 in mine with retracts and flaps.

Fly safe and have fun!!
David

RCKen

My Feedback: (9)

Here is the thread you are referring too: [link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_2213747/mpage_1/key_/tm.htm]Ultra Sport Lite[/link]

It was an Ultra Sport 40 build. From Minn's own mouth, he's never owned a US 60.

A YS 110 is WAY too much engine for this plane. Trust me on this one, the Ultra Sport does not benefit from being overpowered. This isn't a 3D plane that will hover, but rather is a sport pattern type ship that flies very nicely on a good 60 engine.

Ken

krossk

My Feedback: (27)

How about an OS .91 Surpass II? If I'm not mistaken, I think that's what's on the picture on the box.
(I wanted to use a Saito .91, but the deal from Tower with the coupon code I had at the time was too good to pass up...)

RCKen

My Feedback: (9)

The 91 should be a good power plant for it. All of my US 60's were flown with an OS 61 FX, and they flew GREAT!!!!!!!

Ken

krossk

My Feedback: (27)

That's good to hear. I'm pretty much done with 2 strokes with the exception of my Avistar and UltraStick, both with TT .46 Pros.
Thanks,

Kelsey_B

The OS 91 works quite nicely. I agree the YS 110 is too much, plus this plane doesn't have much prop clearance. Even with the 91, I have to use a prop with a small diameter.

I'm glad they didn't add the ABS cowl. I'd rather sand the front to a nice shape instead of attaching a plastic piece that never seems to fit just right.

By the way, that girl in the pic is now 12 years old, and we are building a stik for her trainer !!

Keith

Kelsey_B

Maybe its just my age, but retracts for a 60 sport plane just aren't worth the hassle.

I do understand that they make the model look cool in the air, but you have to be very proficient with your landings. If you can't set the plane down softly on the wheels, the retracts won't hold up.

Just my opinion

Keith

MinnFlyer

My Feedback: (4)

Yes, my "Ultra Sport Lite" thread shows a lot of the construction, but remember, I was going for "Very Light". I really don't recommend doing a lot of the things I did - Like going to 1/16th sheeting instead of the standard 3/32nds. While this made the plane lighter, it also made it flimsy and difficult to pick up without cracking the wood with a misplaced finger.

Also, I really think that the US is one of those planes that really flies better with a little weight behind it.

Build it stock for the most part. but here are a few recommendations:

Add flaps. This is a very simple mod. Cut about 1/3 (Or slightly less) of the inboard side of the ailerons. Just use the stock aileron torque rods to control the flaps.

Now you have two options:

1) use a single servo in the center, and run flexible pushrods to the ailerons and mount the flap servo behind the aileron servo

2) Mount the flap servo in the aileron servo position and build a servo mount in each wing for the ailerons.

I have done it both ways and each has their good and bad points. But if I were going to do it again, I'd probably go with one servo.

Doing the built-up belly pan seemed like a no-brainer to me. It was much easier to build it than to try shaping those blocks to match the wing. Just be sure to use a block for about 2" at the TE so you can drill the holes for the wing bolts.

One other thing that I think really helps - On all of the US 40s I've built (4 so far) I moved the retracts out by one rib bay. This is another easy-to-do mod.

The die-cut rib doublers are sized to fit ribs W3 and W4. Take the doubler for Rib W3 and cut it down so it fits on rib W5.

Now add the doublers to Ribs W4 & W5 and proceed as per the instructions

The nice thing about this is that by moving the wheels out, the plane is much more stable on the ground and much less likely to tip over on a tight turn. Another benefit is that you can make your landing gear wires a little longer if you need to for prop clearance

Bernard

My Feedback: (1)

Minn,
I have the US 60 kit that I am starting and the W1, 2, 3, and 4 do not have any lightening holes. I was going to put Servos in the wing and would need to cut them but after reading your post it seems thqat the best thing is to put two servos in the root (flaps and Alerion) and use the nyrod for the alerions. I want to add the retracts as well. This puts 3 servos in the root of the wing which really limits the gluing area. Should the landing gear be put to the side of the W1 rather than cutting it? The same would be tru for the alerion servo - should it be shifted to the left side rather than cutting the W1? With the Landing gear and alerion shifted to the left, they may help counter weight the muffler. I will glass the wing in the middle and under the belly pan - will that be strong enough with the 3 servos cut out?

MinnFlyer

My Feedback: (4)

The "Glueing area" you're referring to is not really a point of stress.

As long as you have the spars well-glued, and the fiberglass center, you won't have any problem.

But you do make a good point that I should mention...

When cutting the opening for the flap servo (Behind the Aileron servo), leave some room between the two openings, don't just cut one large hole

Bernard

My Feedback: (1)

Would it make sense to cut both the same way - across W1 rather than the flap servo cut the length of W1?

jamie_duff

Consider buying a razor plane...

You can rough out convex shapes very quickly and easily, finishing up with a sanding block. It also keeps dust to a minimum which is good if you cough and choke on the stuff like I do

MinnFlyer

My Feedback: (4)

You can mount the flap servo however you like.

But something you should do is to join the two torque rods and control them with one pushrod, don't "Y" the pushrod.

I have made a "Y" out of the pushrod before, but if you do this, you need to be careful of differential flap movement.

It's too difficult to explain (Or more detailed than I want to get) So to make it simple, just do this:

Bend a piece of scrap pushrod wire into the shape of a "U" and wrap it to each torque rod with copper wire and solder in place. Then add a sontrol horn to just one of the torque rods

MinnFlyer

My Feedback: (4)

I think if you look at the covering videos I did you can see this on mine.

XTOL

You might benefit from the build pictures I took when I built my
Us60 from the RCM plans. While its not a Great Planes kit the
construction is very much the same.

http://tesla-2.dyndns.org/~mhammer/us60/

Mike Hammer

Solstice

My Feedback: (1)

Wow! Thanks for all the help. I'll follow up on what you have said here and the websites listed. I'll keep checking this thread if folks want to contribute more info.

ChuckW

I finally broke down and ordered an US .40 kit last night. I think that i will give the flaps a try. Not sure on the retracts yet.

MinnFlyer

My Feedback: (4)

Welcome to the club!

ChuckW

The kit arrived today. Looks like a straight forward build so it should be fun. Just how much does adding flaps improve the plane? I think i am going to do retracts or flaps, not sure which one. Also, has anyone flown it as both a trike and a taildragger? If so, which best suits this plane?

MinnFlyer

My Feedback: (4)

If I had to choose between flaps OR retracts, it would be a tough decision.

But I think I would go with retracts.

Of course, that's just me. Keep in mind that retracts are more difficult to add AND maintain.

If you don't like tinkering, skip the retracts and go with flaps. It's an easier mod to make, and no maintainance is required.

ChuckW

I wouldn't mind a plane with retracts. I'm confident I can do the install fine but I just see so many guys at the field having problems with them that it makes me a little nervous. Right now I am getting the tail feathers glued up I'll decide what to do on the gear once I start the wing.

Kelsey_B

I wouldn't say retracts are difficult to install. You do have to plan them out and setting up the linkage for the mechanical units can be a little tedious, but installing them is pretty straight forward.

They just are not very durable, and will not take any abuse. One misjudged landing and the legs are bent, or even worse, some of plastic pieces inside the unit get damaged.

That is what you are seeing at the field.