I AM VERY FRUSTRATED, MY FRUSTRATION STEMS FROM THAT AMOUNT OF TRAVEL OF SERVO GEAR ON RETRACT SYSTEM, IT IS TRAVELING TOO MUCH WHICH IN TURN CREATE A BIND IN THE GEAR , SOUNDS LIKE GEAR TEETH OF SERVO SHAFT IS BEING GRINDED, IS THERE A SOLUTION OTHER THAN GOING OUT AND BUY A 300,00 electric system from " likes landing?could a potentiometer be installed on gear channel of radio, my next option is trying a linear gear travel system from towers, don't know if that will make a difference. please somebody with some suggestions help me, thanks, what is happening also is that it is putting a kink in pushrod . i follow the instructions given in retract manual but that doesn't seem to help.

Disconnect the pushrods from the servo. push the rod full travel toward the gear, this will usually make the gear retract.

When it's at maximum travel use a small piece of tape, or correction fluid, or a small dab of paint to make a mark on the rod.

Then move it as far as it will go in the opposite direction, to the fully extended position, and measure how far the rod moved.

Cut that distance in half, and that's how far from the center of the servo wheel to make the holes. If, for example, the pushrod travel is 7/8" make your holes 7/16" from the center, and you're finished.

HTH

Bill.

NOW YOU TELL ME. I spent a couple of sleeplless night getting my servo set just right. I had trouble getting it to fully retract and still pull it all the way down. It was not fun working with a 180 degree servo. I finally got by letting it go past the point on the down side. It still locks in place but is a tiny amount from the fully locked position. I am talking like 1/64" I have no buzzing servo and the gear has been 100% in over 100 flights.

Dru.

No doubt about it, setting up retracts is one of those jobs you can pull your hair out over. Set it up like Bill said, then I attach the rods to the servo wheel with EZ-connectors like this:

I AM USING SPRING AIR RETRACTS AND THE THE VALVE IS LIKE A TOGGLE SWITCH, DIFFERENT THAN ANY OTHER I 'VE USED, THE MANUAL SUGGEST A SMALL SERVO, I AM USING A FUT--FP-S136G SERVO, MANUAL SAYS THAT VALVE SWITCH SHOULD BE IN THE VERTICAL POSITION, AND SERVO SHOULD BE IN THE NEUTRAL POSITION, I TRIED THAT, THE SERVO TRAVEL IS MORE THAN 180 DEGREE, ANYWAY THANKS GUYS I WILL PLAAY WITH IT UNTIL I GET IT RIGHT, I WILL TRY ALL THE GOOD SUGGESTIONS, THAT IS WHY I CONSULT EXPERIENCED RC ERS ON THIS SIGHT, THE POOL OF KNOWLEGDE IS FULL ON RC UNIVERSE.

MINNFLY THE SETUP YOU DISPLAYED, ONE ROD I KNOW MUST LEAD TO THE VALVE, WHERE IS OTHER LEADING???

strobelights:

Minn_flyer and I both assumed you were using mechanical retracts, and advised you on their setup.

For air operated retracts you should not use the S136 servo at all, using an ordinary servo will solve all your problems. Just use the ATV on your transmitter to set the travel you need.

The S136 is designed and built specifically for mechanically operated retracts. Only.

Bill.

Yup.

(You mean I drew that nice picture for nothing?)

minnflyer your picture is valuable, and sorry for not giving you the full detail of what equipment i am utilizing, i am going to try a regular servo and and see what happens, minnflyer your pics were downloaded, i assume the setup is for mechanical retracts.in case i may need it in future projects, right now i am using pneumatics.

gentlemen i want you to know i have achieved success with the retract servo, i used a futaba 148 and it works perfectly versus the fp-s136g servo, thank you guys, i would still be trying to achieve success with the 136 mechanical servo.

You're welcome, Strobe.

Lesson: Give full information, get fast solution.

Bill.

Another satisfied customer.