bte super flyin king
#2

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DWSC,
The Vice President of our club has one he just completed this winter. He hasn't flow it yet, but he says it is the easiest building model he has ever built. He usually builds 6 or more planes a season. He doesn't crash them - just likes to build and trade. He been building a long time.
He also built the Venture 60 and had nothing but praise for that BTE model too.
John
The Vice President of our club has one he just completed this winter. He hasn't flow it yet, but he says it is the easiest building model he has ever built. He usually builds 6 or more planes a season. He doesn't crash them - just likes to build and trade. He been building a long time.
He also built the Venture 60 and had nothing but praise for that BTE model too.John
#6
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From: Dun Rovin Ranch,
WY
I am building the Giant Flyin' King right now. All major components are finished and I am working on engine mounting. It will be powered by a Brisson 4.8 twin. I am having to make a modification to the basic firewall design to get it in.
I am building it with removable tail assembly. The servos for the elevators will come off with the horizontal stab and vertical stab. The rudder will be pull-pull with the servo mounted in the fuselage. I added a lite-ply doubler in the tail area. I am building a tail restraint into the tail, as Bruce shows in the plans book. I am also building a hard point into the the rear cabin top for towing gliders.
It has a bomb bay built into the bottom of the cabin area for a candy drop. It will also have a drop mechanism for my RC skydiver, a port for a camera in the side. The wheels that Bruce provides are 7" DuBro's. I built hard points into the rear cabin bottom for floats which I hope Bruce designs this summer. The kit builds fast and has the best wood I have ever seen in a kit. You get lot of wood!! I am in the process of carving the STOL wingtip blocks.
I am using Hitec 700 and 705 servos on all surfaces. Control will be via JR 10SX PCM with two receivers, JR Matchboxes and a JR G460T gyro to be used on the rudder to assist takeoff.
I am covering it with Neslon Dacron fabric and latex paint.
I'll be happy to answer any questions about the kit. You can leave a reply here, or contact me with a PM at [email protected].
I am building it with removable tail assembly. The servos for the elevators will come off with the horizontal stab and vertical stab. The rudder will be pull-pull with the servo mounted in the fuselage. I added a lite-ply doubler in the tail area. I am building a tail restraint into the tail, as Bruce shows in the plans book. I am also building a hard point into the the rear cabin top for towing gliders.
It has a bomb bay built into the bottom of the cabin area for a candy drop. It will also have a drop mechanism for my RC skydiver, a port for a camera in the side. The wheels that Bruce provides are 7" DuBro's. I built hard points into the rear cabin bottom for floats which I hope Bruce designs this summer. The kit builds fast and has the best wood I have ever seen in a kit. You get lot of wood!! I am in the process of carving the STOL wingtip blocks.
I am using Hitec 700 and 705 servos on all surfaces. Control will be via JR 10SX PCM with two receivers, JR Matchboxes and a JR G460T gyro to be used on the rudder to assist takeoff.
I am covering it with Neslon Dacron fabric and latex paint.
I'll be happy to answer any questions about the kit. You can leave a reply here, or contact me with a PM at [email protected].
#8
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From: Rogue River, Oregon
Just a couple of quick clarifications...
My prototype has 7" Sullivan wheels (6" wheels looked too small), and the wing chord is over 25 inches. Total wing area is over 23 square FEET.
I'm pretty sure Dr. Rick's model that was on display at Toledo has a DA-100 in the nose, but could be mistaken. I know it won 2nd in Sport Monoplane and 3rd in Monokote!
Yeah, a GT-80 would be an excellent match for the model.
My prototype has 7" Sullivan wheels (6" wheels looked too small), and the wing chord is over 25 inches. Total wing area is over 23 square FEET.
I'm pretty sure Dr. Rick's model that was on display at Toledo has a DA-100 in the nose, but could be mistaken. I know it won 2nd in Sport Monoplane and 3rd in Monokote!
Yeah, a GT-80 would be an excellent match for the model.
#9
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From: Baudette, MN
All this talk has pushed me over the edge, I ordered mine today! I spose the boxes are gonna be way to big to hide under my bed
I talked to Bruce a long time ago about one, and was so impressed with the conversation that I knew I was gonna own one sooner or later, so I guess now is the time. I got a Fox 4.8 twin sitting here, so that should pull the beast around. only trouble I can anticipate is the price of operation. Any plane that will haul up 20 pounds of candy at a crack is gonna make halloween look cheap! Will keep ya posted when it arrives!
I talked to Bruce a long time ago about one, and was so impressed with the conversation that I knew I was gonna own one sooner or later, so I guess now is the time. I got a Fox 4.8 twin sitting here, so that should pull the beast around. only trouble I can anticipate is the price of operation. Any plane that will haul up 20 pounds of candy at a crack is gonna make halloween look cheap! Will keep ya posted when it arrives!
#12
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From: Baudette, MN
Well, the poor UPS man came staggering up to the door today with a couple huge boxes! They were so big that they were unable to climb up on top of them and dance like they usually do with my packages
I started by looking at the wood selected and was happily suprised! Fantastic choice of wood in this kit. Then on to look at the plans and construction booklet, once again A++++. after an hour drooling, I had to get started. By the time I set it down, both outboard wing panels are done and all I can say is, "If you have never built a Tharpe kit, treat yourself to one!" every notch is a perfect press fit, with all spars ending up exactly flush with the ribs! This thing is gonna be hard to set aside
I started by looking at the wood selected and was happily suprised! Fantastic choice of wood in this kit. Then on to look at the plans and construction booklet, once again A++++. after an hour drooling, I had to get started. By the time I set it down, both outboard wing panels are done and all I can say is, "If you have never built a Tharpe kit, treat yourself to one!" every notch is a perfect press fit, with all spars ending up exactly flush with the ribs! This thing is gonna be hard to set aside
#14
Bravo. It looks great! The cowl is a nice addition.
The only thing bad about a BTE kit is finishing it... it looks so good "in da bones" that you hate to spoil the looks of the wood by covering it! Bruce's kits have to have the best wood selection I've seen.
The "phase 2" for my (non-super) Flyin'King is a second "STOL wing" with fixed leading edge slots, slotted/fowler flaps and hoerner tips. It should be able to fly on a gopher f@rt... and give back change.
The only thing bad about a BTE kit is finishing it... it looks so good "in da bones" that you hate to spoil the looks of the wood by covering it! Bruce's kits have to have the best wood selection I've seen.
The "phase 2" for my (non-super) Flyin'King is a second "STOL wing" with fixed leading edge slots, slotted/fowler flaps and hoerner tips. It should be able to fly on a gopher f@rt... and give back change.
#17
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From: Davis, OK
Man, this thing looks huge!! It actually looks like something you might see flying bush up in Canada or Alaska. One of these might be cool on a big set of floats!!
#19
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From: Baudette, MN
And man does it ever fly! It acts a lot like a big old Cub. After I quit shaking, I was able to really enjoy it. 
http://www.rcsites.net/lukenbill/misc/sfkflight8.jpg
http://www.rcsites.net/lukenbill/misc/sfkflight10.jpg
http://www.rcsites.net/lukenbill/misc/sfkflight15.jpg
http://www.rcsites.net/lukenbill/misc/sfkflight11.jpg
http://www.rcsites.net/lukenbill/misc/sfkflight4.jpg

http://www.rcsites.net/lukenbill/misc/sfkflight8.jpg
http://www.rcsites.net/lukenbill/misc/sfkflight10.jpg
http://www.rcsites.net/lukenbill/misc/sfkflight15.jpg
http://www.rcsites.net/lukenbill/misc/sfkflight11.jpg
http://www.rcsites.net/lukenbill/misc/sfkflight4.jpg
#21
That plane really looks good in the air.
Interesting that the rudder servo is mounted on the top of the tail ahead of the rudder. Pull-pull linkage. How is the tailwheel steered? I think I see some extar cables on the rudder servo arm, but I'm not sure. From 'da bones picture, I'm not sure where the elevator servos are. I don't know if this is a BTE feature or if the Good Friar was moving things rearward to balance the 4.8 Twin engine.
--Bill
Interesting that the rudder servo is mounted on the top of the tail ahead of the rudder. Pull-pull linkage. How is the tailwheel steered? I think I see some extar cables on the rudder servo arm, but I'm not sure. From 'da bones picture, I'm not sure where the elevator servos are. I don't know if this is a BTE feature or if the Good Friar was moving things rearward to balance the 4.8 Twin engine.
--Bill
#22
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From: Baudette, MN
Good eye Bill,
I put a Hitec 5735 on the rudder, mounted externally (Not according to plan), and a Hitec 545 mounted on the bottom with pull pull for the tailwheel. The Hitec 5735 for the elevator is just inside the tail. It balances that way without a drop of lead!
I put a Hitec 5735 on the rudder, mounted externally (Not according to plan), and a Hitec 545 mounted on the bottom with pull pull for the tailwheel. The Hitec 5735 for the elevator is just inside the tail. It balances that way without a drop of lead!
#23
That is some good thinking about mounting the rudder, elevator AND tailwheel servos rearward.
At first glance, using a separate servo for the tailwheel seems odd, but considering the mickey-mouse setups we can use to connect the rudder and tailwheel, it may be a simpler solution. For example, on my (small) Flyin'King, my rudder servo is in the rear of the cabin (designed location) and operates the rudder via a Sullivan Goldenrod. An extra link goes from the rudder servo arm to a bellcrank, which has a pair of Kevlar pull-pull cables back to the tailwheel. That is a standard setup, but still complex.
Ya done good.
--Bill
At first glance, using a separate servo for the tailwheel seems odd, but considering the mickey-mouse setups we can use to connect the rudder and tailwheel, it may be a simpler solution. For example, on my (small) Flyin'King, my rudder servo is in the rear of the cabin (designed location) and operates the rudder via a Sullivan Goldenrod. An extra link goes from the rudder servo arm to a bellcrank, which has a pair of Kevlar pull-pull cables back to the tailwheel. That is a standard setup, but still complex.
Ya done good.
--Bill
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From: Baudette, MN
It started out of laziness, but I am starting to use that set-up more and more. Another advantage of it is that if you have the extra channel, you can do a program mix for the tailwheel to rudder. If you are on grass, turn up the %, and for tar, I turn it way down. If no extra channel, I just use a Y
#25
Still, it's not so much laziness as it is a good way to do the tailwheel. Nowadays, inexpensive mini-servos and computer radios with mixing capabilities are readily available.
--Bill
--Bill




