SeamusG

Hey Master - a little off thread but gotta ask ...

What are your guidelines for using CA, aliphatic resin (AR) and epoxy during a build?

I ask because my 1st build (4Star60) wasn't straight. I used AR & epoxy. The next morning things were tweaked. The next build (Kadet Senior) I replaced a lot of balsa stick with basswood and added lite ply formers (overkill - I know) and used epoxy and AR. The AR didn't hold up well on the joints between two pieces of basswood - didn't absorb into the fibers - required running 1/8" dowels into the joints to strengthen. The last two builds (SSE & 4Star60) I followed SIG guidelines and used thick CA & epoxy except for joining sheeting then I used AR. Both wings & fuses came out very straight. The builds were much quicker for not having to wait hours for AR to set. However, finish sanding was somewhat brutal. Nope - never CA's my fingers together - but I do have a bottle of CA debonder just in case. [8D]

SeamusG

MA - I have both a PDF file and a RAR file that contain all of your posted posts in a Word document file and all of your posted pictures. Let me know if you would like a copy.

MasterAlex

Well, these are my personal guidelines. Also, I don't seem to have a reaction to CA, so there's no physical reason to avoid. For this build, I used a fair amount of CA. There have been builds I've done in the past where I used very little CA and almost exclusively used AR. Although their usage properties are very different (one bonds almost immediately, the other cures after some time), I consider them generally interchangable in terms of their function. AR is more forgiving and sands extremely well. If you find you need some additional working time with an assembly then AR might be the way to go. I sometimes use it when attaching the leading edge sheeting so I can work the sheeting and deal with any challenges that pop up. Also, the sanding in this area is made nicer if you use AR. Obviously, there are times when you need that instant bond, so CA is the only option there.

CA's advantage is obviously speed. IF you frame up an assembly and have it square/aligned/straight, etc. hitting it with CA is extremely fast and efficient. The key is to use only enough to do the job. If you have well aligned parts, you can use thin CA and let it wick into the joint. When you're able to do this, there no mess and little sanding frustration. It means you've cut/sanded pieces to fit exact - even kit cut pieces may need some work here. If you use CA and the parts are not alligned or there are gaps you try and fill with med or thick CA, you will have sanding issues later on (sounds like you've been there).

Regardless of adhesive, there is no substitute for quality woodworking skills.

I use Epoxy for all high stress joints on a build. These would be Firewall, Wing Joints, Tail Feather attachments, Langing Gear Blocks, etc. I also use Epoxy to fuel proof.

As for hard woods, it would depend on how they were being used in the build. High stress area = Epoxy. AR needs a porus surface to properly bond, your hardwood might not have taken to the AR like you were hoping.

For an exhaustive dive into adhesives Airfield Models has a great page [link=http://www.airfieldmodels.com/information_source/construction_materials_for_model_building/adhesives.htm]here[/link].

-MA

SeamusG

Thanks MA.

I'm very familiar with Airfield Models - oh the skills that that guy has! There's always room for different opinions.

Maybe my problems with AR are a result of not having developed the necessary skills to keep the glued components square during the glue's setup time. I use the backside of ceiling acoustical tiles for my board. I don't like to thru-pin too many pieces of wood. I have a large number of 1/4" hard balsa squares (about 1"x1" square) that I pin down on both sides of an object to keep it square, similar to your use of 1" pieces of aluminum angle stock. I recently picked up a magnetic board and appliances at a local auction - EJL stuff - out of business. Seems that it will work with straight stock but I'm not sure how well it will handle a little "brut force cybernetics" to keep tweaked pieces in line.

Btw, I'm working up the courage to do a build thread - hey, why not open myself up to public scrutiny

Cheers,

p2v

Hey.......Did you ever finish that Hog, or did you just get tired of posting on this thread? I'd like to see the finished product. I started mine before you started yours, it's not done either, almost though.

SeamusG

The Hog got pushed back - behind an LT-40 to replace a totaled Avistar (1st night using it as a club trainer), and behind a Bridi Killer Chaos 60. It's ready for covering - a task that I find reasons to postpone. All of the covering has been purchased - just, well, ah, it's covering!

u2builder

Hi, any Hog Bipe builders/flyers still around. How do you like your HOG Bipe. I have been looking for a kit Bipe in this size range and they all seem to have disappeared from the market. I would like to built a kit to fly aerobatics and also basic 3D. I know the HOG is not a 3D bipe but was wondering if it could be bashed into one by making the rudder and elevator a little bigger and maybe getting rid of the dihedral. Not having built one, I am curious if anyone has an opinion on this. I have a Saito 100 for power. Thanks.

Mako17

I've had one on order now since Dec '09, every week they tell next week it will, they had a problem with the wood they were getting. Also have a Saito 100 for mine as well. Hope hope it's shipped by the time I leave Iraq in late Oct. Good luck with yours

johnboy151a

My Feedback: (68)

I’ve got two kits still in the box…. I just need to retire first…. There was a build thread on here a while back where someone was building up the hog as a Der Jager. Looked really cool….
John

dwjustis

I see a lot of you are putting cowling on your Hog Bipe,where do you get them from.

Smashmaster

Wow,I have been subscribed to this thread a long time. I figured you would get several responses,and didn't reply.

This is the main place I know of to get cowells.
Fiberglass Specialties

Doog-meister

Fascinating thread. Have a HB kit ordered from SIG, pending receipt. Seems that most are using a 4-stoke .91-1.10 displacement. Given that I don't have one of those laying around, but do have several .65 2-stroke engines needing a home, I am thinking along those lines. I know, heresy to use the 2-stroke, but that's what I have. Side-mounted, with Pitts-style muffler, and most likely a balsa top and bottom cowl.

Don't recall seeing many 2-stroke engine options. Anyone with experience on that they can pass on?

iron eagel

Keep your build as lightweight as you can and it should be ok.
http://www.sigmfg.com/IndexText/SIGRC69.html