MasterAlex

Yeah, the angels were singing as the box opened ... what a beautiful sight.

A quick opinion question for you guys. The glass filled engine mounts specifically say they are not recommended for 4-Stroke engines larger than .80. Any concerns strapping this 100 on them? Should I splurge and get something like [link=http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXD632&P=SM]this?[/link]

BAlbertsman

I say splurge for the new mount, I know the 100 I had on my 4* 60 vibrated that plane quite a bit.

r2champion

MA, based on comments I have read here about how a Hog Bipe deserves a 4-stroke, I finally bit and ordered a Magnum 91 for my hog bipe. It's not nearly as pretty or powerful as that big Saito, but it fits my budget. Also, it will be my first 4 stroke so I am pretty excited, should be here tomorrow. Can't wait to see it fly with the 4-stroke!

MasterAlex

You'll love that 4-Stroke sound!

Radar5756

Now I am wondering if I bought the right engine. I have a OS 65 2 stroke for my hog.

MasterAlex

I think there's a fair number of people that prefer a 4-Stroke for the Hog vs. a 2-Stroke - its a personal thing. I really like the 4-Stroke sound and am partial to Saitos (Ford vs. Chevy type argument). Most posts I've seen suggest a .91 4-Stroke for the Hog - since the Saito 100 is basically a 100 size engine in a 91 size case, I went with it ... I am sure this is WAY MORE power than I need - but that's why there's a left stick, right?? [8D]

Also keep in mind that a comparably sized 4-stroke engine is less powerful than a 2-stroke, the rule of thumb is to use a 2-stroke of about 2/3 to 3/4 the size of a 4-stroke. For example, if a plane is designed for a .45 2-stroke, a .60 4 stroke can be substituted. If a plane is designed for a .90 4-stroke, then a .60 2-stroke can be substituted.

You are definitely okay using that 2-stroker on your Hog. As for the "Hog Police", well you are definitely in danger of drawing their attention.

-MA

FlyingPilgrim

My Feedback: (26)

Masteralex, the Dubro mount is fine, but is quite heavy. You should be fine with the glass filled plastic type mounts, but I don't know what they provide in the kit.

cubfloater

My Feedback: (5)

Radar, you will be fine with that engine. I had a 72 Saito on my Hog and had plenty of power. I guess it's because I'm older, don't know. Everyone else needs at least a 91. You can always convert to a 4 stroke later if your mount will work. I just converted a Super Sportster 60 to a 4 stroke. Or if you ever build another you can go 4 stroke. This is my second that I'm starting. Good luck.

MasterAlex

Yeah, I went back to hookedonrc's thread and some of the feedback there was the glass filled mounts were just fine ... I can spend that $35 elsewhere for sure. I will likely stick with the kit supplied mount. Definitely don't want to add even more weight up front. Thanks!

MasterAlex

So I climbed back in the saddle after the big blunder. I appreciate no one calling my stupidity out; I really feel quite silly about that one - anyway, its behind me and I will not dwell on it anymore.

Now that the distraction is behind me, I can resume joining the wings. Remember, I made that little dihedral jig before, so I'll put it to good use now. I ended up dry fitting the dihedral brace and wing halves together to make sure everything was right (picture1). When I placed the wing onto the Dihedral jig, it looked to be right on (picture2). I decided to join the Dihedral brace to one wing half first, let the epoxy cure, then join that to the second wing half. Picture3 and Picture4 capture the wings when I epoxied them together and clamped them.

Once everything cured, I came back and added the servo lead tubes (construction paper), and the center sheeting - Note - it is much easier to put in the servo lead tubes before the wing halves are joined . The top wing center sheeting had given me a challenge because I had gone "cap strip happy" and added too many cap strips - all the way to the center. It forced me to add supports under the cap strips to secure the sheeting. I believe this made the sheeting much more secure and less resistant to breaking when improperly handling. With that in mind, I added a few reinforcements to the bottom wing sheeting as well (picture5). I went ahead and sheeted both the top and the bottom. I will cut a couple of holes for the servo leads after I glass the center.


Picture1 - Dry fit DB and wings together.
Picture2 - Dihedral angle spot on.
Picture3/4 - Wings joinded and curing.
Picture5 - Additional support for center sheeting at trailing edge
Picture6 - Additional support at butt joint of sheeting pieces
Picture7 - Bottom wing - added a bit of filler ahead of sanding

JustPlaneSweet

MasterAlex,

My Saito 100 is mounted with a [link=http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXK812&P=7]Hayes AL-60[/link]Hayes AL-60 long glass filled nylon mount. It is kind of a shovel design and works very well. It is much stiffer than the kit mounts but not unbreakable like the Dubro mounts you showed. I like the idea of the mount breaking instead of my Saito in the event of a crash. The engine is held on with socket head sheet metal screws into the arms of the mount. The mount is held on with socket head cap screws through the firewall to tee nuts.

Stan

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chashint

I think all model airplanes deserve a four stroke
No need to be apologetic about buying the Magnum 91, it will be an excellent match for your Hog Bipe.
I have several of these engines and they are all strong and reliable.
While the Saito is a very nice engine I will be very surprised if you have Saito envy once you start running your Magnum.

r2champion

Thanks Chashint! I wouldn't say apologetic...but definately envious of those nice shiny valve covers! The anxiety has the best of me waiting for the Big Brown truck to pull up the drive. The worst part, its Valentines day and is ruining my chances of getting a first run up today with my new toy . I guess I'll just have to get the wifes motor running![X(]

MasterAlex

Thanks Stan! Yeah, that seems a bit more reasonable priced for a motor mount .

-MA

*JCB*

My Feedback: (9)

MA -

regarding the engine mount: don't skimp with such an inexpensive item. The last thing you want is for a cheap part to fail and your whole plane turning into matchsticks. I am also putting a saito 100 in my hog and am using Hangar 9's aluminum mount that i had from an older plane. I like it given that the rails are slotted, so mounting the engine is real easy, no holes that need to be perfectly drilled.

r2champion

Just a quick question to anyone that might know right off hand...will the hog have enough clearance for a 14" prop with a stock gear setup?

*JCB*

My Feedback: (9)

yes - i believe my buddy runs a 15" or 16" on his. the prop shaft to ground clearance is about 11.5"

JPMacG

My Feedback: (2)

I'm setting up a Hog Bipe. I bought it from a friend and don't have all the documentation. Do I need to add right thrust or down thrust? Or is it built into the fire wall? I'm using a Dave Brown engine mount and a Saito 100.

*JCB*

My Feedback: (9)

it has some down-thrust built into the firewall, 1.5 deg if i remember correctly. However while building it, i didn't notice any right-thrust. I haven't finished building the plane, so i haven't flown it yet. I'm not sure it would need it however, it seems like the top wing would break up the "p-factor," but maybe somebody with more experience could chime in about this.

MikeL@Sig

Here are the factory specs on the engine thrust.

1-1/2 degree down, 0 degree right


Happy Landings
Mike

*JCB*

My Feedback: (9)

i knew somebody in the know would chime in! thanks mike!!


BTW: i feel sorry for those of you building this plane that do not have the slot machine from great planes. Cutting the hinge slots in the control surfaces is like cutting into concrete!! I just finished cutting hinge slots in the rudder and elevator and the slot machine had trouble getting in there even with new blades. I'm NOT looking forward to cutting 24 slots for the ailerons [:@]

MasterAlex

JCB, do you use the [link=http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXPU13&P=7]cutting guide?[/link] Just wondered if it keeps you from "drifting" when making cuts. I can never seem to keep the slot machine in one place when I press the trigger. [:@]

vmsguy

When using the cutting tool I found a few tricks.. Others can probably add to them.

1. Make sure your project can't move. Clamp it to the bench or something. VERY VERY IMPORTANT!
2. Start the cutting tool away from project. This way the start-up of the tool doesn't make it bounce around on the project.
3. I usually extend a finger from my hand holding the cutter to the project, it helps make any subtle movement easier.
4. When starting the cut, go very very slowly, until you're certain you have the cutter place/oriented correctly.

Good luck.

Jim T

My Feedback: (1)

Something I did for cutting the hinge slots on my Proctor Antic I'm building is to cut the hinge slots in the trailing edge before I even built (in my case) the stabilizer. It was kind of one of those moments where you say to yourself "Why didn't I ever think of that before". It sure made it easier to do.

Jim

chashint

I thought it was just my kit, the control surfaces were like iron. I thought I was going to have to order new blades for the slot cutter