Hi Guys,
I am getting a Sig Somethin Extra kit from a friend for doing a favor for him, anyhow I want to boost it's performance a little bit. I will most likely power the plane with a .46 2-stroke. What are some good mods to do to the airframe ie: Rudder, Elevator's etc: ??
I am not looking for 3D just a good flying sport model. The plane will be coverd with Sig Koverall and painted(no plastic wrap here).

This will be a quick build then I will be on to building a GTM 1/4 scale DVI.
Later!!
Anthony

I'm building one right now. I plan on increasing both the elevator and rudder, and counterbalancing them. I'm sliding the Horizontal stab forward, and the vertical backward to increase rudder throw. Dubro super strength gear for prop clearance (saito 82, 15X4 APC). I've also modified the firewall to hold the 82 at a 9 0 clock position. I'm thinking of mounting the elevator servo in the tail. I've modified the wings for flaps. Tail wheel will be replaced with a Sullivan. And the tail braces will be replaced with pull pull cable. Pull pull on rudder too.

I think that covers my mods. Good luck with yours.

Thanks for the tips!!
Anthony

I made the Rudder longer by one inch and increased the throw 1/4 in by cutting the Elevator. knife edges fair. Go ahead and add the counterbalance it will help.

Pete

I increased the rudder by 1 1/2" and sustituted a Sullivan tailwheel. I also made a FG cowl and removable fuel tank cover. I had a ST .45 in mine and it was pretty fast compared to other SSEs. I think the cowl had a bit to do with increased speed. A really fun plane to fly. I'll build another one when I finish with the 2 Waco UPF-7s I'm on now. Good luck-Brother

Deadeye, I have a Saito 91 in mine. I had plane since 1998 or 99. Never did fly it yet, too many other projects jumped in front.[:'(] I did just as you are thinking, move the servos to the back. I put 3 back there, 2 hitec 225BB and one Futaba 135SH on the rudder. The rudder is a pull-pull w/ a wheel instead of arms. The wheel is just right to protrude through the sides. I mounted the servo to the cover. Seems to work ok, at least on the ground. I would suggest using carbon push rods for your elevators, unless you use a smaller servo, then you can get them closer and shorten the linkage length.
I didn't do much up front. Chopped off the sides and wraped glass cloth over the firewall to about 2 inches back on the sides of the fuse. I also went around the top and bottom as well.
The landing gear block also received the same reinforcement.
I made some caorbon fiber wheel pants and a cowl, but I can't seem to find them. I also lost the wing tube. Does anyone know where I can find a replacement?
I plan to have this finished in about a month ( I have 4 other planes I'm working on as well, I think I have a little A.D.D. ) Can't wait though, All I here about this plane is how good it flies and owners are always saying, "I'm going to build another!"

DM

I would consider mounting the motor either on it's side or inverted. This will allow you to direct the exhaust somewhere other than the wing gap where it meets the fuse or the hatch cover. I found I did not need the hatch for the fuel tank. Mine slips out into the radio compartment just fine. This is a small plane so keep it light and it will reward you with a great flying model. I mixed flaps and ailerons and they are just about usless in my opinion.

Enjoy,

JEB

YEL914.. The lttle picture doesn't give your plane justice! I enlarged it and stared for a while, beautiful job!!
bps.. You know I wanted to invert the motor, but a friend talked me out of it. He didn't like the thought of changing the thrust position. If I can't find my C/F cowl, I think I'm gonna change it to the way I wanted it in the first place! Besides, yel914's SSE looks soo good with that nose!

I forgot to mention to Deadeye.. The SSE balances WithOut any lead! Just move the batt. around to change fore or aft. and Lots of room, only one servo in there, throttle.

DM

Thanks for the tips guys,
I have gotten away from small planes and I am sure this will be my last small plane. I will increase the elevator and rudder areas and add counter balances. I do not plan on adding flaps. I will probably just mount the engine stock(straight up) and add a exhaust extension to get the residue adove the wing joint.
This will be a very quick build, I am guessing I will have the plane ready to cover in less than a week after construction begins.
Thanks!!
Anthony
ps. Great looking SSE's Guys!!!

Thanks vintagflyer for the compliment. This plane is scale and is the racer version still housed in a museum. It flys like a ww1 airplane!
JEB

A really helpful mod is to cut off the tops of the firewall and formers all the way back to the turtledeck so that you can use a straight piece of sheeting for the deck. I can take mine off and get to the fuel tank and all the way back. It makes things very easy to get at.

Dang it blw, you're about three days late with that one. Oh well, maybe on the next one. Here's the mods I did on mine. Just getting started on the covering.

Wow! A carpeted building table, I am impressed. Just kidding you, very nice job this plane is just a good all around Sunday flyer. I fly mine almost every weekend.

JEB

Thanks I really like that tip, I can already see my formers flying thru the bandsaw. I am also going to add counter balances and increase the rudder area. I also intend to use this plane as a test bed for airbrushing. I will be doing a 3D effect where it looks like one color(purple) is splashing baqck over another color(white). The trick will be to get the shading correct to give it a 3D effect.
Anthony

For what it's worth, here are my mods, I've heard lots about the airframe, and how it flies and although a 4 stroke is a fine engine most people agree that for this plane to do really well, a 2 stroke holds the key. Of course the decision is ultimately yours, I'm just passing along what I've found from other sources.

I also re-directed the antenna to come out the top of the fuse ahead of the rudder rather than drag on the ground and get caught in the tail wheel as the design calls for.

counter balances

more rudder surface area

pull-pull rudder

big landing gear with dubro tail wheel

ittty bitttty pilot

almost done

I started my kit yesterday,
I built both wing panels per the plans, I am going to add counterbalances to the rudder and elevators and increase the rudder by 1 inch. Nothing really fancy. I expect to complete the framing of the plane today. Are most people using the supplied hinges? I am thinking about getting some Robart hinges.
Anthony

Very nice. Your not to far from the maiden .
The .55 should be way more than enough, had a GMS .47 on mine and thought that was plenty.

I smucked my ARF and bought the kit. Hope to build it this year.

I have flown two of the SSE and loved both. I believe some of the modifications mentioned here will make the airplane too heavy. It is borderline heavy as is for a 46 engine that is not to say it won't fly well with a 61,91, 80,75. I personally liked the Tower 75 best on mine. With the larger engine you will get more air blown to rudder, elevator to give better knife edge etc. and naturally it flies faster and really comes alive. I added extra rudder/ elevator to my first sse but I prefered the second one with stock control surfaces and larger engines. You must be able to change an airplane with larger engines to compensate or lead will kill the airframe. (longer fuse in rear, shorten firewall, servos in tail)
I like the counter balanced controls but haven't tried them but if I build another I will give them a try.

Please go backup and look at the picture of Saito 91 above, its carb positioned at same level as the top of fuse, too high for consistent fuel flow. Mount motor on side and this puts carb in line with center of fuel tank and get consistent fuel flow.

As mentioned above, for your CG, consider moving your battery pack around. I've seen folks mount this in the tail area to balance the plane. Move anything you can before adding lead is a good rule to follow. Also, this plane does well, with your skills being considered, with the CG moved back from the main spar up to two inches for 3d and increase agility in the air. It's rock solid on the stock CG but moving the CG back helps with 3D stuff. I've moved mine back 3/4" from the spar and I will probably mount my Rx pack in the tail next to move it back to around 1.5" behind the main spar for some 3d goodness when I want it.

somegeek