dewey320

Has anyone out there used another type of adhesive when hinge glue is called for? I'm working on a Hangar-9 .60 Spitfire MkII and the manual calls for hinge glue on the ca hinges for the functional split flaps. The manual goes on to say "Do NOT use thin ca glue for these hinges as you can only access them from one side (which is true for all split flaps) and thin ca may not provide enough adhesion.

I don't really want to buy a whole bottle of specialized "hinge glue" when something else I have around already would work. Besides I've only got 6 hinges to do and I sure don't want to buy a whole bottle for that.

rgds,


dewey320

pub

No problem,do this,after you put your hinge in, drill through from the top or bottom (where the hinge is at) and glue a tooth pic and sand smooth.

ramcfarland

My Feedback: (44)

Ya see there are answers [&:]"added"to the tooth pick or (small Dia. dowel use an epoxy to adhere the hinges INSIDE the slots while keeping every thing tidy while the 15 -30 minute epoxy is harrdning/setting up...using Alcohol keeping it at 78% if your working with a foam or ssimular structure.

So now with the tooth picks and epoxy your control surface(') are in to stay ...bar any experation date on the aircraft

vicman

My Feedback: (10)

I don't normally use CA hinges since I never feel confident that I am getting enough glue in there.
I use Dubro hinges with some vasaline at the hingepoint and gorrilla glue them in. After the glue foams up it pops off the covering pretty easily. Just my .02

Don41

Since I'm very allergic to CA these days I ran a little experiment with the CA hinges that came with my TopFlite kit. I rubbed Titebond III into the hinge material and placed it in a piece of test balsa. Once dried I had to pull very hard to remove the hnge. What failed was the wood, not the glue.

I did use a slightly looser slot (not much) then glued the hinge into one side and let it dry. The looser slot made it easier to add the mating control surface at final assembly.

dewey320

Thanks for the input guys... I did forget to mention that this is an ARF and the wings are already covered so I don't really want to go with the toothpick dowel approach since that would mean removing ultracote.

I like the idea of slightly loosening the slot and using Titebond or some other glue. Now that I mention it why wouldn't I just use 6 min epoxy since that's what I'll be using for the flap linkage arm anyway??? Is there any reason you wouldn't use epoxy for these hinges provided you loosened up the slot a bit first???


tx,

dewey320

Don41

I doubt it would be a problem but just to be sure I'd test it on scrap.

Don

vicman

My Feedback: (10)

Epoxy will work. You just need to get it in all those little slots, mate up the parts, and not get any glue prints before the pot life is over.[:@]
Thats why I use Gorrilla or Titebond III. Plenty of time to get the slot filled, work the parts and that foamy action seals and fills all the voids. Including the holes in the Dubro hinges.
Just don't forget the grease in the hingepoint otherwise it will be glued solid.[:@]

phjoker

My Feedback: (4)

I would go with the gorilla glue also. Now that i have used it a couple of times it is becoming
my favorite glue. It fills all the holes and crevises nicely, but like Vicman said put some vaseline on the hingepoints
or else you are sh*t out of luck and your hinge is glued. (Speaking from experience)