Here's a couple of photos showing how I'm planning on installing the pushrods for the Kadet Mark II build.

I have the servos screwed in and haven't sheeted the fuselage. I'm trying to have the pushrods supported on the way back using the pieces of balsa in the pics. I'm having some trouble picturing how to have the rudder pushrod come out to have the least amount of friction. It also seems to be coming out too high and I don't want to cut out more of the wood to have it come out at a lower angle.

I haven't figured out how to have the nosegear cable running, but I do have the rudder servo nearest to the pilot side of the fuselage, so I'm hoping to be able to run a very flexible cable along the fuselage side.

Also, I am considering not putting in the 8 oz tank that I bought with the kit and ordering a 10 oz tank. (Sullivan Round). In the guidebook for construction, it suggests a 10oz for a 40 size, but will it really make that much of a difference in the flying (like would I regret not making the upgrade?)

Suggestions, Comments, Ideas?

The picture does not show the full area you can use for servos but you might want to look it over and see if you can mount the servo in a position to give you a straight shot to the nose gear lever. I like to make all my pushrods as straight as possible even if I have to move a little wood around.

Cut the opening farther back... this will lower the push rod to exit at a better angle. Do not cut the excess off till you have epoxied the push rod sleeve to the sheetting itself... If you can epoxy it from the inside it will make for a much cleaner look. Get that exit point as far back as you possibly can or you may possibly get some flex from the exit point to the rudder. If you need to fill it the extra space use some good quality joint compound after you have epoxied in the push rod sleeve.


As far as the tank... I would use a 10oz. for a 40-46 size engine.... It gives a little longer run time. I wouldn't be too concerned about weight on this bird... It will be a *****cat with either tank you choose.


Hope that helps.... Good luck on the build.

wow... they won't let you type p*u*s*s*ycat??????

tstotts,

getting a straight shot at the nose-gear seems like a good idea. Just wondering, are you suggesting that I put in an additional servo just for the nose-gear? I could mix the rudder and nose gear together and it might be better mechanics.

If I go for just one servo, should I prefer the rudder pushrod or the nosegear?

cutterjohn

KCJarmen,

I went and got the 10 oz and it sure looks like it is a better fit! The 8 oz seemed small, even just looking at it. I will be installing it by siliconing or something through the firewall (as the pics show in the Kadet manual.)

I haven't tried the rudder yet, but I will try to put the exit point as far back as possible. Is there an issue with the slanted rudder on the Kadet Mark II? does the pushrod have to go perpendicular to the hingeline?

cutterjohn