Who knows what paint is compatilble with ultra cote? I need to paint my cowl white and deep red and I have the deep red ultra cote does not make white anymore go figure thanks chris

Ive used auto zone truck paint, acrlic enamel should match pretty close

Yup. I bought two cans of Supposedly matching paint for Cub yellow Ultracote. Neither can matched. After calling Horizon Hobby and complaining,I received two new cans neither of which matched. Another flyer stated the Ultracote Red didn't match either. I have purchased Monocote paint that didn't match their covering either.
I don't know what's going on, but these distributors need to go back over their specifications.
I now know why many people prefer to obtain their paint through custom mixing at a paint store or auto paint shop.
Good luck.

I just used the deep blue and it didn't match the ultracoat very good. your going to pay 12$ for it and you probably have it custom mixed that will match up better. Cookeville Raceway and Hobbies did have several cans of Ultracoat white paint left the other day.
http://www.cookevillehobbies.com/ Give them a call

I'm not sure about Ultracoate, I don't use it. But I have some experience using the Monokote and matching paints, Lustrekote. If the paint doesn't match at first, just sand smooth with 400 and shoot another coat. Don't sak me why. Each coat has a slightly different shade. After two or three coats, they generally match very well. So, don't give up too easily, keep trying. The important thing seems to have a really good base coat sanded perfectly smooth so the top coat has a nice smooth finish. I think the reflectivity of the finish often determines how closely the colors match.

Yeah, doesn't it suck that red sprayed over red looks different than red sprayed over black and that looks different than red sprayed over white! [:@]

The reason for this is because the black behind the red will deepen the color much the same as adding a bit of black to the red. Conversely if white is added to red, you do not end up with pink, but with a lighter shade of red.
I ended up by using some Testor yellow enamel on a Cub cowl and it came out a closer match.

I don't know what you are painting or how much you want to spend but I have had excellent results with the PPG Paint sold through Radio South RC. The metallic plum was an exact match to the covering.

SunDevilPilot

If you want AN EXACT match, bring a sample of the covering to a paint store and have them mix you a quart of latex (about $10.00). After the latex has "cured" (about 7 - 10 days for flat) put a clearcoat on it. I have had no problems with Ultracote or Lustercrap clear. Another clearcoat option would be "Dupli-Color Acrylic Clear Engine Enamel" (auto part stores and is available only in gloss).

What kind of primer are you using?

I AM HAVING THE SAME PROBLEM MATCHING RED AND YELLOW CHECKER BOARD. IT LOOKS LIKE ARF MANUFACTURES IN CHINA DO A GOOD JOB. WHAT PAINT DO THAY US? LEADED? LOL

Sometimes you will notice a different color in the coverings too if they are from different batches. The ARFs out of China are not all that great, one of the problems mentioned a lot in magazine reviews. I have had a bit of luck with the Ultra paints but it's been with the Deep Red and Yellow for the most part. The radio south paints match really well!!

BEHR Paint to the rescue.
Actually, I got the info from another modeler.
Works good.
Home Depot has the only paint that is a TRUE WHITE. BEHR Premium Plus. Ultra Pure white. Interior extgerior Hi-Gloss enamel.
Also add Floetrol to it. It eliminates brush and roller marks.....also it makes the initial mottled look when sprayed smooth out to a beautiful smooth finish.

I sprayed mine on. One light coat, let it dry for a week and then a heaver coat and let it dry for 3 weeks.
As far as fuel proofing goes, I am going to use clear Rusteloum. That is close enough for me.
I'm sure that what the other modelers suggest is better but I want to try this.


The following comment is cut from "Kit building" Bud Nosen Areonca Champ Build.

The last 3 pages of the thread show different materials and color match.

I think the last page proves the color match is a good one....at least I like it.

Ron

From Randy Little......

The Behr paint in your photo was the exact paint that I used. After couputer matching at Home Depot, they found that this paint, with NO ADDITIONAL Pigment was a perfect match to white Monokote.

I have some of the white Coverite material that you used, and it is a pretty close match to the Monokote.

Make a test coupon - paint it as you paint the cowl, then clearcoat the coupon BEFORE you use the clear coat over the cowl. This allows you to do two things - check the final finish for being fuel proof, and see how much if any yellowing occurs with the clear coat. Some clear coats can yellow with age. The DupliColor Acrylic clear I used has a bit of a yellow tinge from the get-go, although no further yellowing has occurred. The Coverite is a bit yellower than the Monokote, and may match up to the Behr + clear coat. Allow the latex to "cure" for a couple of weeks before you put the clear on, if you have the patience!

After reading many threads, I sprayed the Behr paint thinned about 30% - half of the thinning was with water and the other half (15% of total) was denatured alcohol. This is what some experts suggested. Supposedly the alcohol alows the paint to flow out and smooth on the surface before it dries. Some even thin with windshield washer fluid - the blue stuff. Supposedly the blue tinting does not affect the color. I did not trust it, so used the denatured alcohol instead. It worked well. My spray gun was set at about 30 - 35 psig. Spray in light coats, allowing about 20 - 30 minutes between coats. Three coats is usually the right number. More may be needed if you thin more.

Here is a clip from a former post I did to a guy in Santiago, Chile who built the Precedent Champ concerning latex painting:

f you have any kind of spray equipment, I would sure suggest going the latex route. I have a simple, old Badger 400 "detail" spray gun with about a 4 ounce spray cup. The latex is thinned as follows: 8 ounces paint, 1 ounce water, 1 ounce denatured alcohol, 1 ounce Floetrol. The Floetrol is a paint additive that the experts advise using; it lets the paint flow out smoothly as it dries, and retards drying. It is available here at Home Depot in 1 quart bottles. It is not expensive. I am told that thinning will vary, even with different colors as the types of pigments have an effect. My white and dark green both did fine with the same amount of thinning. I spray at 30 psi. Air pressure and amount of thinning are interrelated, so you may have to play around with this. Guys doing WWII stuff use flat latex with flat clear overcoat. As I do only civil airplanes, I used gloss latex with gloss clear. Give it a try! Materials are cheap - doesn't cost much or take much time to shoot a test panel.

On my first try I used a "primer" of three coats of Randolph's nitrate dope. I have a gallon, and like the taughtening effect. Most guys doing latex don't even do this. I have not decided whether to brush the nitrate onto the Aeronca or not. I have plenty, go I may do it. Some people also use automotive primers from spray cans.

There is a LOT of info in RCU forums about latex painting. Here are some good links:

http://www.vaillyaviation.com/documents/ Latex HousePaintspart1web.doc

Part 2 http://www.vaillyaviation.com/documents/ Latex HousePaintspart2web.doc

All Forums >> RC Airplanes >> RC Warbirds and Warplanes >> Spray painting latex

You will see some use automotive windshield washer fluid to thin with! They say the coloring in the fluid disappears. I was a bit untrusting, especially with the bright white so I decided to get the same effect using denatured alcohol and water. (Not my idea - research in the forums showed others doing this also.)

By the way, my Maule has a Monokote covered wing and painted fuse. (The real plane has metal wings, fabric fuse.) I took a piece of white Monokote to the color computer at Home Depot and it determined that it was a PERFECT match to the Behr paint I used with no additional pigmennts needed!:




Behr PREMIUM PLUS® Interior / Exterior Hi-Gloss Enamel



This brilliant, durable, glass-like sheen is the perfect choice when exceptional wearability and easy stain removal is desired. Hi-Gloss Enamel is excellent for highlighting trim, railing, shutters and moulding. This 100% acrylic latex, mildew-resistant finish offers improved hiding for greater coverage, ultimate durability and is backed by a lifetime guarantee*.


Pre-mixed Colors Available in Select Markets
- Ultra Pure White No. 8050 - MSDS

From now on, I just pick it up off the shelf without having to get the paint guy to mix it.

Always use a premium EXTERIOR rated latex - not interior.


The use of automotive lacquer can be good - I just think it will be harder and more expensive to do. Unless you use a plasticizer in the paint, the finish could end up brittle. This can cause cracks in the finish in the open areas of the covering. I used epoxy paint (K&B) on an open framework model once, and it was a disaster. The paint cracked at every rib, leading and trailing edges, etc. due to handling. It was OK on solid surfaces, but at the transitions to open framework flexing caused the brittle paint to crack. Oil got under this and it was a mess.

I really am impressed at the light weight of the finished result with the latex. The secret is the superior covering power of this paint, with the resulting thin finish with three light coats. The finish result, after applying the DupliColor clear is indistinguishable from a hand polished and waxed dope finish. Perfect for the look of a fabric covered airplane.

Randy L.