Midwest Super Hots Build
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RE: Midwest Super Hots Build
From the last step I have the CG fairly close to where I need it but with that big honkin' muffler hanging out at 45 degrees there's some lateral balance that needs to be done.
Since the firewall has no offset I tie one end of a string to the crank shaft and the other end to a screw that is screwed into the tail wheel block. I hook the string to a loop in the ceiling and see which wing falls. Naturally it falls to the muffler side.
I then take some #6 lead shot mixing it with 5 minute epoxy and keep applying small amounts until the wings stay level.
I'm done with glue!!!
Since the firewall has no offset I tie one end of a string to the crank shaft and the other end to a screw that is screwed into the tail wheel block. I hook the string to a loop in the ceiling and see which wing falls. Naturally it falls to the muffler side.
I then take some #6 lead shot mixing it with 5 minute epoxy and keep applying small amounts until the wings stay level.
I'm done with glue!!!
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RE: Midwest Super Hots Build
Using Ultracote in the colors that were given to me I start with the bottom pf the wing. I'm not going to explain the process except for a couple extra steps I take, because everyone does it different. I do it my way and I've never landed a naked plane yet due to it coming off.
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RE: Midwest Super Hots Build
A couple tricks I do like I show here. I don't claim to have invented them, but I don't remember anyone telling me about them either.
On all the reverse corners I iron several 1/2 inch strips the same color I'm going to cover the section with. The more the part bends, the shorter the pieces need to be. This makes it easier to cut the piece without the need to be so precise,especially on this rounded wing area. It also prevents any wrinkling, or the need to fight wrinkles trying to overlap the corner with a large piece of covering. I'll just overlap the strips with the main sheet of covering. I think it also makes a stronger seam with the glue being in contact with covering instead of raw wood.
The other thing I do helps with something that has always been a pain. With contrasting colors on the leading edge it's difficult to get a nice straight line with a razor blade. I run a strip of masking tape where I want the cut making sure it's stuck just below the area I have tacked on the covering. Then I pull the excess covering out from the wing and use the tape as a guide for cutting a straight line.
On all the reverse corners I iron several 1/2 inch strips the same color I'm going to cover the section with. The more the part bends, the shorter the pieces need to be. This makes it easier to cut the piece without the need to be so precise,especially on this rounded wing area. It also prevents any wrinkling, or the need to fight wrinkles trying to overlap the corner with a large piece of covering. I'll just overlap the strips with the main sheet of covering. I think it also makes a stronger seam with the glue being in contact with covering instead of raw wood.
The other thing I do helps with something that has always been a pain. With contrasting colors on the leading edge it's difficult to get a nice straight line with a razor blade. I run a strip of masking tape where I want the cut making sure it's stuck just below the area I have tacked on the covering. Then I pull the excess covering out from the wing and use the tape as a guide for cutting a straight line.
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RE: Midwest Super Hots Build
Now I finish the fuselage, tail feathers, and control surfaces.
After I cover the fuselage I seal the engine compartment with thinned 30 minute epoxy. I do this now because it seals the edge of the covering in that area.
After I cover the fuselage I seal the engine compartment with thinned 30 minute epoxy. I do this now because it seals the edge of the covering in that area.
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RE: Midwest Super Hots Build
This thread has now officially taken me longer to produce that it took me to build the plane. I've built a couple of the smaller Hot's but this was my first Super Hot's. I actually have a small one I'm covering right now that I've modified the control surfaces on. The one in the picture below is from a kit that was started 20 years ago and never finished. I found it in a garage and I took it home and completed it, and I've flow the heck out if it since. It's been crashed and rebuilt to the point of being much heavier than it should be at 4 pounds. Plus, it's getting a little long in the tooth with a lot of slop in the control surfaces. The new one will use the same .46 FX and come out under 3 pounds, should be a hoot.
The Super Hots was flown last spring and as a stipulation for building it, I got to maiden it too. If it fell apart while I was flying it, it's my fault. If it breaks after I land it, it his fault.
I didn't have to add any weight to the plane to balance it other than the bb's in the wing for the lateral. I think it came out just under 6 pounds.
I was a bit nervous but when it lifted off I could tell it was a solid airplane. I think it took a few clicks of aileron trim and I was in business. This airplane tracked so straight and true it was almost un-believable. It tracks much better than my Funtana 40 and my Showtime 50. It just seemed like it wanted to fly. Loops were awesome and as big as I wanted them. A few more minutes in the air and I reluctantly had to release the rights to it's owner.
Thanks for taking the time to read my scratching and look at my pictures. I hope I helped someone out with their Super Hot's, Or even inspired someone to build one. I talked to Steve Santich at Toledo last year and told him about the two I built. He said there can never be enough Hots' in the air.
Any questions about anything just ask.
Rebsix
The Super Hots was flown last spring and as a stipulation for building it, I got to maiden it too. If it fell apart while I was flying it, it's my fault. If it breaks after I land it, it his fault.
I didn't have to add any weight to the plane to balance it other than the bb's in the wing for the lateral. I think it came out just under 6 pounds.
I was a bit nervous but when it lifted off I could tell it was a solid airplane. I think it took a few clicks of aileron trim and I was in business. This airplane tracked so straight and true it was almost un-believable. It tracks much better than my Funtana 40 and my Showtime 50. It just seemed like it wanted to fly. Loops were awesome and as big as I wanted them. A few more minutes in the air and I reluctantly had to release the rights to it's owner.
Thanks for taking the time to read my scratching and look at my pictures. I hope I helped someone out with their Super Hot's, Or even inspired someone to build one. I talked to Steve Santich at Toledo last year and told him about the two I built. He said there can never be enough Hots' in the air.
Any questions about anything just ask.
Rebsix
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RE: Midwest Super Hots Build
Great building thread!
I am planning to build the MW Hots40 and I like the colorsheme printed on the box in the 1st post. Could you post a better pic of the colorsheme?
Kind regards, Erik
I am planning to build the MW Hots40 and I like the colorsheme printed on the box in the 1st post. Could you post a better pic of the colorsheme?
Kind regards, Erik
#35
RE: Midwest Super Hots Build
hi just scanned the tread quicklybut why would you bend you control rods in the fusestraight control rods are always best-direct input from servo arm to horn there is no need to increase the angle and the drag on the rods and servos as they move
the plane is real fine and the 40 and 60 hotz have to be one of the best 60 size airframes ever the fuse is an airfoil-designed by an aerospace engineernow in the RC hall of famenice job here
50 years ago -i made my u contol profile fuses an airfoil -to keep the lines tight when flying-contoured the outside of the profile fuse -left the inside flat ( produced the effect of a flat bottom wing )worked real great then -building for 26 years
the plane is real fine and the 40 and 60 hotz have to be one of the best 60 size airframes ever the fuse is an airfoil-designed by an aerospace engineernow in the RC hall of famenice job here
50 years ago -i made my u contol profile fuses an airfoil -to keep the lines tight when flying-contoured the outside of the profile fuse -left the inside flat ( produced the effect of a flat bottom wing )worked real great then -building for 26 years
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RE: Midwest Super Hots Build
Tony 0707 My question was where can I get a 60 size mw super hots air plane. And are they still being made. I did not ask about control rods.
sorry about the mistake.
again thanks for any help.
sorry about the mistake.
again thanks for any help.
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RE: Midwest Super Hots Build
Tony 0707 My question was where can I get a 60 size mw super hots air plane. And are they still being made. I did not ask about control rods.
sorry about the mistake.
again thanks for any help.
sorry about the mistake.
again thanks for any help.
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RE: Midwest Super Hots Build
Wow, had to read through it myself to figure out what I did two and a half years ago
Tony..............I understand why you asked your question, but believe it or not there was less friction the way I did it. I ran them several different ways and the picture posted is the way they worked the best.
aerok...........Midwest does not make a hots of any type that I'm aware of anymore. The kit I built was a new old stock that someone had. You can find one on e-bay once in a while but be prepared to pay.
Ilikebipes posted a link for plans and I'd suggest that is the way you should go if you want one. The parts for the plane are very basic shapes and easy to cut with a scroll saw. I think I stated in the thread that posting the pics here took me longer than it did to build the plane, it's a fairly simple build.
I've been building airplanes since the 70's and I'd say for a first kit, or even a first scratch build, the Hot's series would be a perfect first timer.
Tony..............I understand why you asked your question, but believe it or not there was less friction the way I did it. I ran them several different ways and the picture posted is the way they worked the best.
aerok...........Midwest does not make a hots of any type that I'm aware of anymore. The kit I built was a new old stock that someone had. You can find one on e-bay once in a while but be prepared to pay.
Ilikebipes posted a link for plans and I'd suggest that is the way you should go if you want one. The parts for the plane are very basic shapes and easy to cut with a scroll saw. I think I stated in the thread that posting the pics here took me longer than it did to build the plane, it's a fairly simple build.
I've been building airplanes since the 70's and I'd say for a first kit, or even a first scratch build, the Hot's series would be a perfect first timer.
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RE: Midwest Super Hots Build
Thanks for the build page! I bought a kit last week and have started on it already. Steve Santich is a very dear friend of mine - We fly together at the same club here in NC. He was very excited to hear to hear I'm building another one of his dads designs. I've built a few of his other planes but not the 60 size hots. I've attached two pics - One of Steve with an Elcro-Hots Hots and the other of my modified Hot-Hots. I'll post pics of my Super Hots once it's completed. I'm building it with the notion of speed. I'm going to power it with a Saito 125 : )
#41
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RE: Midwest Super Hots Build
I have posted this photo several times but it's the only Hots I have so here it is again. I was flying with a friend that was into warbirds so I figured I needed one too. I'm using a YS 1.10 in mine. I found this old kit at an auction and gave 10 bucks for it, did the build between another build when I was waiting on parts to be shipped, that's how fast you can build a fun fly plane. I will say that the Hots built from plans will fly better then the MW kit but only because of the weight MW added when they designed the wing to be removed and used so much light ply. I made a minor mod or two on this one, I think it was the rudder size or shape? Can't remember now. This plane and my old Kaos are the two planes I own that get the most air time, I enjoy flying them a lot more then my big planes and they fit in the van a lot better!! As long as there are plans for this plane it will always be built and flown!! Just a true fun fly plane!!
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RE: Midwest Super Hots Build
very nice guys! i built a super some years ago when the kits were still produced.she had a webra black head rear exhaust for power on tuned pipe.what a plane i must say.it was my first true hotrod and i loved it.flew it till it could fly no more and sold the airframe.come to think of it........i still have a webra laying around.hmmmmmmm....
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RE: Midwest Super Hots Build
Super Hots baby! I have built 2 Superhots in my RC Modeling Career and want to buy another but I guess I'll have to scratch it from one of my old sets of plans...... on ebay a guy wanted 180 bucks for a kit he had! On one model I made the mistake of sheeting only one side of the turtledeck before going to bed that night..next morning the fuse had warped on me! Had to wet the tail down and try to straighten it..never got all of the warp out. That plane met a Limbo pole and tore off a wing! Later I built another (no warped fuse this time) and flew it with the same engine I had on the first, a Supertigre.60 ABC....This plane is the most fun to fly of any I have ever built. I will build another. Right now though I am building a Sig 1/4 Scale Cub. The last Superhots I built would take off in about 10 feet and go straight up and then land at almost a walk. I love that big thick wing!
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RE: Midwest Super Hots Build
I purchased plans from RCstore.com but they are not shipping it with a copy of the build article. A rather serious omission I think.
Anybody know where there is a copy of it? . . .a PDF someplace perhaps?
Anybody know where there is a copy of it? . . .a PDF someplace perhaps?