abufletcher

Just out of morbid curiousity, what hit it and how did the other model fair? Was your model destroyed by the impact with the other model or the ground?

hammerd

The other plane was a Twist 3D, and it blew apart in to small pieces. I would have thought it would fare better in a battle to the death, but it looks just as bad, maybe worse. When they hit, at about 40' up, they both just blew apart. Looked like someone fired a confetti cannon! From the crowds perspective it was said to be quite spectacular. [8D]

Navy18

My Feedback: (4)

I will add my sympathy as well... I dislike not getting at least one full season out of a build. My take on mid-airs is less technical; it happens and nobody wins but there are some aggressive pilots out there who don't think twice about spotting other flyers; that is for another thread. If you post another build thread, I will be watching. By the way, my pup arrived this week and I will be referencing your build for fun. Thanks.

hammerd

Good luck with your' build.
Here's my next project:

[link=http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=962262]60" Jenny build[/link]

Navy18

My Feedback: (4)

Thanks for the update on RC Groups and the build site... I will register there and watch with much interest... I am still moving ahead on the UltraSport60 build. Appreciate the "over the shoulder" watch of your skills.

iron eagel

Here are a couple of shots you may like.
One is a rib and the other of a prop both from a Jenny that was in Taunton MA in 1917.

ajd

My complements to the builder who generated this log. I certainly learn't a lot from it. Would like to share some of my experiences building the plane.
I felt my hands were to shaky to cut the slots in the underneath of the cowl. Decided to make a fixture using a Dremel tool with a cutter to do the job.

Fixture is basically a 2x4 with a sliding pad on which is mounted the Dremel cutter. A rotating table is attached with a 3/4" dia dowel as pivot. Cowl is mounted to table with 1/8" dowels in the holes in cowl faceplate. Table is raised to cut the rear slots with a wooden shim.

To operate mount cowl on the rotating table and slide Dremel tool into cowl. Rotate table to get necessary cuts, shim table up and cut second 2 slots. Easy 2 hands job.

Result was perfect slots with very little effort.

ajd

In building my PUP model I was influenced by a fellow club member Jim Young ( http://www.tnjmodels.rchomepage.com/tnjwaco.php ) who has a WACO YMF-5 model with a removable front cowl/engine to facilite battery instal/removal (see article FLYING MODELS March 2008).

The idea of a removable front end to facilite battery installation works well. It is essencial with a round fuselage like the WACO. However with a flat bottom fuselage like the Sopwith Pup it may not be necessary. I suggest you weight up the merits and personal preferences between the system I am describing and the battery door shown in post 21 of this log. My system is more complicated to build but may give more access to motor and ESC and the interier of the model. Also you do not have to invert model to change the battery. I also fiished my model with the removable battery door in Post 21. Really like the latch and have since used it on a couple of models.

In this design the existing Motor Mount plate is replaced with a tray/plate sliding between two 1/8' sq guides mounted on the fuse sides. Tray is mounted in same location as kit motor mount. Spring loaded latches are added mounted on the tray and engage in existing mount slots in the fuse sides. A motor mounting plated is added at the front and stiffened with braces which also form a pocket for the battery. Existing fuse front bulkhead is cut away to allow the assembly to slide out. Front cowl is mounted to the sliding assembly with balsa spacers. Mounting faces are at compound angle to each other. I mounted extra length spacers to front of the sliding assy ,installed and latched it and then cut spacer parellel to front bulkhead with a saw. I also added 2 1/8' dowels in existing holes in cowl /front bulkhead to take motor torque and stiffen the assembly Tapered ends and different lengths to assist in engagement.

There are three essencial parts of the design:
1 Latches must be spring loaded so that they spring into latched position. Spring loads can be quite light so that a lot of force is not required to unlatch. Latches are overcenter design so that motor thrust will work to keep latches engaged.
2 Latch stops must be provided to control latch retraction. ( Ensures one latch does not retract and other remain locked.)
3 Pull on the spring to unlatch the latches must be on the centerline. Offset pull will pull retract one latch more than the other.

Overall system works good. When you instal assembly you listen carefully for the click when the latches engage. You also give the prop a tug to make sure latches are engaged. To release just pull the wire that projects through the dummy engine. If it does not release push the cowl assembly rearwards and pull the release rod and cowl wil release. For this you need a little clearance between cowl and front bulkhead.

As I said earlier I will leave it to the reader to decide which system they prefer.

ajd

Additional photos of PUP front battery access f

ajd

Detail design drawings for front access to PUP battery. Drawings detils concept .they may not be accurate scale.

iron eagel

Nice setup.