I am still new to building models and just finished my trainer. The CA is a little tricky getting used to, and sticks to just about everything. I know with Carpenters wood glue that you need to pin everything and let it cure, but which is better, stronger and best to use? Does it make sense to take the time and use wood glue? Is wood glue easier to sand? Any answers would be helpful. Oh, I know ARF's are quick and easy, but I do love the enjoyment of making your kit into a flying work of art. Even if you crash it early, you had the enjoyment of building it.

Check this out: http://www.rcuniverse.com/showthread...61&forumid=107]

Thank you Cdallas2. I appreciate your help.

I have given up on CA because of some of the side effects of the fumes. I had a sinus head achefor over two months and it was becaue of the use of CA. I am playing with hot melt glue to hold the parts until the Titebond dries. I have broken out all of my old clamps, pins, weights, cloths pins, and rolls of blue masking tape to hold the parts togather until all is dry.

Dru.

I am scatch building a balsa plane that is going to be an electric parkflyer plane ( 46" WS- under 16 oc AUW) so weight is an issue. How does the yellow glue compare in weight being added to the plane to CA. Althouth the added strength from the yellow glue is a plus I don' t want it to make the plane to heavy.

5O'clockCharlie,
Yellow glue (Titebond) is really light because as it drys the weight i.e. the water evaporates. I believe it is more flexible than CA. The only downside is having to clamp or pin the parts in place. In all cases with any glue try to keep the fit as tight as possible.

I use Titebond and epoxy almost exclusively because I have such a reaction with CA.

John

I have recently gone back to wood glue and found that 1) its realy not slowed my building down that much, 2) the weight is realy not enough to worry about as long as you remove the excess glue before it sets and 3) its alot cheaper than CA. just my 2c.

Thank you all for your input.

Ya My work space is in my basement will poor ventalation so using CA is a killer. I was putting a fuse together last week and my eyes were watering so bad I could not take it any more. Went back down in the morning and the stupid cat had knocked the bottle off the bench and spild the remainder of the bottle. I have lots of the yellow glue form building wood furniture so I will try that on the wing. Also do you recomend thining it out just a bit so it will soak in to the gaps a bit better.

Thanks for the replies

You shouldn't have to thin it out at all. Now that you have to become a better builder (making sure everything is perfect before leaving it) you will have a lot less gaps and stronger joints.

Try Pica Gluit. It's much faster than Elmer's or Titebond and sands well to boot.

What do they mean by this, how doe's it work?

Runover1,

I second everything that has been said about the benefits of using wood glue over CA. There must be a good reason carpenters and wood workers have been using the stuff forever.

By the way, you hit the nail on the head with your last sentence of your original post. What's that old saying? "Sometimes the journey is more important than the destination".

What' PICA Gluit? Where do you get it? Cost?

It's an aliphatic resin, like Elmer's or Titebond, but it is different. It dries much faster and sand more easily. I think it must have something to do with both the solids content and the resin itself....

From Pica's website:

Gluit has satisfied model builder’s and crafts enthusiast for over twenty years. Its formulation, stressing quality over cost factors makes Gluit the strongest PVOH aliphatic glue in the market place. This standard of quality has proven its worth with Gluits ability to sand without gumming up the paper. Testing has always proven that Gluit out performs the "Watered down" glues in areas such as wet tack, assembly time, peel strength, shear strength and flexibility.

4 oz. $2.59
8 oz. $3.49
12 oz. $4.49

Gluit H/D 601 uses a higher concentration of solids and over twice the viscosity of our standard Gluit, making this adhesive ideal for those hard to glue fibrose materials. Gluit H/D 601 will will remain on the projects surface without "running down", insuring a stronger uniform, even bonding surface. The higher concentration of solids increases the performance properties when compared to any carpenters glue.

Can you get the pica glue at any hardware store or where do you find it? I think I will try it instead of the yellow glue.

5O'clockCharlie,

Pica Gluit is available from hobby shops only. Cause I'm cheap, I use Titebond original formula. I've used the Pica and don't see enough difference to warrant a special order. Course that's my opinion - Your mileage may vary Glue strength and sandablity is the same for either product.

See ya,
John

I too had to stop using CA because of the fumes. Used strictly Titebond and epoxy on the last plane I built, a Midwest Extra. The plane eventually broke into several pieces but that was due to impact at an angle not conducive to a smooth landing; first one wing tip then the spinner then the other wing tip, etc., etc. :cry: Before that everything stayed rock-solid.

vtsmx

I too have began using wood glue more and more. I have seasonal allergies but I noticed after using CA I would have congestation silmar to a cold or hayfever even when it wasn't allergy season.. I later made the connnection. I still use CA on motor mount screws and a few other high stress areas or field repairs but mostly use wood glue and Epoxy. It is so much easier to clean up wood glue. When I do use CA I try to have good airflow. What really got me was when I saw the vapor smoking while I was gluing and "thought this stuff can't be good for me". I think there ought to be better warning labels and attention brought to the dangers of CA abuse.